Compulsive purchase- Flatiron 1N

**Don** · Nov-30-2004, 1:58pm

For all you folks who have these little Pancake style mandos,I'd be interested in hearing what strings and gauges you are using.

**fatt-dad** · Nov-30-2004, 2:41pm

Ah Don, You have to look at the earler pages of this thread. The recommended string gauges should be posted on a label inside the soundbox. Look up toward the neck joint and see if there isn't a label that shows the recommended string gauges. I found that the GHS ??-250s work. I can't remember the letter prefex, like it may be P-250 or something like that. Whatever, they are an exact fit with the recommended gauge for the pancake mandolin.

Good luck.

fatt-dad

**Nathan Sanders** · Nov-30-2004, 3:37pm

Mostly I have used the D'Addario J-62 strings on my Flatiron.

**fatt-dad** · Nov-30-2004, 8:21pm

Originally Posted by (f5dude @ Nov. 30 2004, 16:37)

Mostly I have used the D'Addario J-62 strings on my Flatiron.

Checked the string gauges for the J-62s and they run up to 0.034, which is just under the 0.036 gauge that is referenced in the label. The GHS A-250s are a better match as they go from the 0.010 to the 0.036 as specified, but the a-string may be somewhat off on the a-250s.

f-d

**PaulD** · Dec-01-2004, 9:33am

As posted earlier... my Flatiron doesn't have the string gauge sticker... must have been a later innovation. I have Martin strings on it right now, but I just bought a new set and I can't recall the brand. I know the E was .010, and I think the G was .036, so maybe they are the GHS set. Thanks for the string gauge info to those of you who posted it. I'm glad to have it set up right.

Paul Doubek

**PaulD** · Dec-02-2004, 9:33am

The replacement strings I bought are J-62's... .034 G string. The Martin strings that I put on it are also .034 on the G string, although when I checked it with a micrometer it measured .033. The bass response seems good but I'll try the GHS strings next time for comparison. I'm probably also going to restring that mandolin with octave strings on the G and D just to play with it.

pd

**Don** · Dec-02-2004, 9:04pm

Was just on the classifieds and checked that other 3MB
for sale.It's still there,but no longer has the asking price listed with the ad.Do you suppose it's been sold?

**pickinNgrinnin** · Feb-09-2005, 11:13pm

Two of these currently on the Bay. This one is a pre-Gibson and it is getting quite a bit of action. Been watching Papa Gordo?

**fatt-dad** · Feb-10-2005, 8:28am

WOW - that price is up there. I believe that that thing will be in the $700 to $800.00 range by the time it's all over. Looks real fine though.

Funny that this thread resurfaced today. I'm preparing to bring mine out of the closet, change the strings and bring it to the next old-time jam. I heard it calling, "Play me, play me. . ."

f-d

**Nathan Sanders** · Feb-10-2005, 9:15am

Wow, I'm glad to seet the return of this thread. Hey fatt-dad, I just got my 1N out the other day and broke a string tuning it up. So, yeah, I need to change them. It's been a while. I too saw the price on that mandola currently on ebay. Wow! I placed a bid early on, but I think I will let this one go.

I just sold my 1CH, which I had previously mentioned in this thread. And I got a really good price. The new owner had a 1CH that he accidentally broke the peg head on, so getting another one was a real treat for him. And, when he received the one I sold him, he checked the serial numbers between it and his broken one, and they were consecutive. What's the probability of that?

**fatt-dad** · Feb-10-2005, 9:31am

fatt-dad continues. . . .

I am considering a partial refret on mine. But the real question is whether to radius the board. What would the purists think about that?

f-d

**BlueMt.** · Feb-10-2005, 12:25pm

I've had this 2K mandola since 1982. I also had a 1N and a Flatiron octave, but I let those get away.

**Nathan Sanders** · Feb-10-2005, 3:51pm

Hey, if anyone knows of a Flatiron Bouzouki for sale, I would be interested.

**pickinNgrinnin** · Feb-10-2005, 11:22pm

It's the thread that will not fade

Consecutive numbers on a 1CH? What the? The probability of that happening - incomprehensible.

Nice Koa 2K - too bad about the 1N!

El Papa Gordo...we all know you took to the radiused boards but to desecrate a 1N?

**fatt-dad** · Feb-13-2005, 10:42pm

Originally Posted by (pickinNgrinnin @ Feb. 11 2005, 00:22)

El Papa Gordo...we all know you took to the radiused boards but to desecrate a 1N? #

Yeah, I know better. I do need to send it out and get the frets worked on. The first three are really slotted and a dressing doesn't look like it will work. I also need to get the bridged lowered and have learned my lesson - i.e., not to do it myself. I am excited to get the work done and it will give me something to add to this thread in the months ahead. Maybe even a photo will make this thread too!

f-d

p.s., it's don Papa Gordo - ha.

**PaulD** · Feb-14-2005, 4:01pm

Originally Posted by

It's the thread that will not fade

It does seem to go on... doesn't it.

don Papa, My Flatiron frets were seriously grooved. I leveled and crowned them and they cleaned up nicely, but I think they were rather tall when the instrument was new (1981). One of the next things I want to do with mine is lower the action at the bridge. The nut seems fine. I haven't learned my lesson yet... hopefully the Flatiron will survive!

I restrung the G and D strings with .012 unwound strings for the second string on each course and tuned those an octave high. It's an interesting sound. I still need to shim the slots in the nut for the two unwound strings because they sit a little low, but I figured I would just drop a sliver of wood in there rather than gluing something in so it will be easy to go back if I want to.

Paul Doubek

**fatt-dad** · Feb-14-2005, 6:14pm

Originally Posted by (PaulD @ Feb. 14 2005, 17:01)

I haven't learned my lesson yet...

My problem when working on a fixed bridge is how to shave the wood from the underside and keep it square. I guess it must require a jig or someother mechanical method to keep the bridge upendicular with respect to the sandpaper/scraping tool/belt sander, etc. In my prior impatience, I would just try to hold it in my hand and sand away. But, the end product was always messed up.

Am I making sense?

f-d

**fatt-dad** · Feb-14-2005, 6:16pm

Originally Posted by (PaulD @ Feb. 14 2005, 17:01)

I haven't learned my lesson yet...

My problem when working on a fixed bridge is how to shave the wood from the underside and keep it square. I guess it must require a jig or someother mechanical method to keep the bridge upendicular with respect to the sandpaper/scraping tool/belt sander, etc. In my prior impatience, I would just try to hold it in my hand and sand away. But, the end product was always messed up.

Am I making sense?

f-d

**racuda** · Feb-14-2005, 9:00pm

Originally Posted by (fatt-dad @ Feb. 14 2005, 19:16)

My problem when working on a fixed bridge is how to shave the wood from the underside and keep it square. #I guess it must require a jig or someother mechanical method to keep the bridge upendicular with respect to the sandpaper/scraping tool/belt sander, etc. #In my prior impatience, I would just try to hold it in my hand and sand away. #But, the end product was always messed up.

Am I making sense?

f-d

Frank Ford's method has worked very well for me.

Fitting Bridge "Feet"

**fatt-dad** · Feb-14-2005, 9:19pm

Racuda,

That is a great way to fit the bridge, but what if you have to remove maybe a sixteenth of an inch to get the action to where you want it? I feel that it would be a lot of scuffing and scraping using this method. Maybe, I'm just impatient?

Thanks for the link - I'll see about my confidence. . . .

f-d

**PaulD** · Feb-15-2005, 1:39pm

Frank's method is what I used... it made sense to me that if you slide it side-to-side it would be easier to maintain perpendicular attitude relative to the top. If I were removing 1/16" I would scribe a line all the way around at 1/16" and then remove wood almost to the line (leave the line and maybe a little more).

Removal could be done with a sanding drum, Dremel, router table, etc... but I would personally prefer to use a block plane, sharp chisel, knife, or spokeshave with the bridge clamped in a vise. Then finish up with the sandpaper on the instrument top, as per FF.

pd

**racuda** · Feb-15-2005, 6:50pm

f-d, I did have to take off about 1/16" from my 1-N bridge. By scraping with a pocket knife and then using sandpaper to identify the high spots, I was able to fit it perfectly - better that the factory job. It only took about an hour.

The bridge foot is not really flat, but rather slightly curved to conform with the top, so I would not not use a sanding block or any method that would flatten the bridge.

A sixteenth of an inch is really not that much to remove from ¼" x 4" piece of wood. Just take your time and do it right and you will be rewarded with a mandolin that plays like butter and sounds even better than you expected as a result of perfect intimate bridge to top contact.

**hotwire** · Feb-15-2005, 9:03pm

Hi all- iv'e been following this thread with some interest.A local shop has a flatiron 2MC w/case for sale [it was a trade in]. It looks like it's in great shape.The chipboard case has no wear at all. This could be a instrument that sat in a closet for years. the serial # starts with 84 (1984 ?) Now the big question ... what would be a deal to good to turn down? # #$$$$ any comments?

**pickinNgrinnin** · Feb-15-2005, 11:00pm

Hotwire-

The one I referred to on this page, just sold on the bay for $760.00 It was the same year (although with a different finish) as the one you are looking at. What are they asking for the 2MC?

**fatt-dad** · Feb-16-2005, 12:07pm

If the action is good, the frets are good and the neck is straight, anything under $500.00 would be too good not to buy. That said, pNg is correct, there is a buyer out there that will pay several hundred more. I doubt that you'll sell it though - ha.

f-d