Eastman tailpieces

[Mike Bunting]

I recently bought an Eastman mandola and when I went to change strings the other day I got frustrated by the awkwardness of the process. The loops of the strings overlap on each other at the hooks which seem to be too close together. This makes the strings very hard to remove when changing them one at a time. Anyone else have this problem?

[Tom C]

Hi Mike,
I have this same issue with my Allen tailpiece. I hate it and have been meaning to have it changed. Maybe now is the time since I badly need a fret job.

[JHo]

I have that same Eastman tailpiece, and I just carefully pinch the loop so as to make it less of a circle and more of an oval. Works just fine.

[kingbrown]

Maybe you need one of these. This tool is used for fitting and removing strings from Eastman, Webber and Allen type tailpieces.

[kingbrown]

Next one.

[kingbrown]

Two to go.

[kingbrown]

Last one. This "cool tool" is available through my website.

[Mike Bunting]

It's the removal of the string that is the problem. I pinched the loops on the new strings so maybe the problem won't recur.

[Mike Bunting]

BTW, thanks for the advice all.

[Doug Edwards]

Removal is no problem. Once I loosen the string, I cut it near the tp and pull it back and through.

[MikeEdgerton]

Scratch all the below. I missed the word Mandola. I now understand your issue.




Tension the string a bit before you add the next string. It will tighten the loop. Also, use the paper string envelope under the tailpiece while you thread the string to keep from scratching the top. Finally, if you decide to buy another tailpiece like the James or any other "Standard" sized tailpiece, keep in mid that the Eastman tailpiece is not anywhere near the standard size and you'll have to plug and re-drill the tailpin hole and the screw holes.

I'd squeeze the loops or tension the string to stretch to loop. There's room there, I changed individual strings on my Eastman when I had it and I was playing J-74's and J-75's.

[Mike Bunting]

It all sounds like a lot of hassle, I think a new tailpiece is in order, I'm spoiled by the James on my Collings, though I won't go that far for #the Eastman. I put one of Keith Newells tp's on my A Jr and it does the job, but I'll probably look around. Again thanks all, (of course any and all recommendations are welcome).

[mandroid]

String Judo,
I hold and tension the new string with one hand, R, over the fretboard, holds loop over hook.
the string makes an S bend over my hand, thru my fingers and the other hand threads it thru the peg , back winds etc. then tighten up the tension .
longer path string takes over my hand results in sufficient winds around tuner capstan.

[Stephen Perry]

EZ. Fast. Clip 4 strings, pieces fly everywhere. Clean 1/2 fingerboard. Bend up loop, squeeze a little to narrow. Turn bend up and slide under tailpiece. Bent up loop slides up the ramp. Flip over and onto peg. Fix other end & tighten. Repeat, then do other side. EZ. Fast. Great design.

[Mike Bunting]

Steve, your method sounds good, though I'd argue the great design part. The James is a great design, all the others fall short.

[MandoBen]

Will a James work on a mandola? It might be too small

[Stephen Perry]

The James has a lid to break off and those horrible O rings. I'll stick with the Brekke style!

[Bill James]

Ben,
I know Will Kimble uses the James on his mandolas.

There's a lot of nice tailpieces out there, all different and something for everyone. I like them all and it sure is nice to have choices.

[Fred Keller]

giannaviolins wrote:

The James has a lid to break off and those horrible O rings. I'll stick with the Brekke style!

The James doesn't really need "defending" and I certainly won't fault you for your choice--there's no wrong answer here --but the things you mention as faults I see as high points. My Brentrup came with one and I've never had a problem with either the o-rings (still using the original ones 2-3 years later) or the flip top lid. In fact, because of the lid, changing strings has never been easier: I flip it up, attach a string, pop the lid down locking the string in place and all I have to do is worry about winding it on the peg.

[Lee]

Fred writes: "still using the original (o-rings) 2-3 years later".

That's like saying you haven't changed the oil in your car and it's still going strong.

For me, the Weber tailpiece is so elegant in it's simplicity and functionality. I slip the string end through the rear, using the empty string envelope to protect the top. The loop stays very secure while tightening up. No moving parts or wear items. Not to faul the Bill James in any way. It's a slick alternative. And a far better improvement to the traditional stamped tailpiece, while maintaining the traditional appearance.

[Steve Ostrander]

On my Eastman 615, I have to use the needle-nose pliers to squeeze the loop into an elongated oval, then I don't have a problem.

[Mark Richardson]

I have an Eastman 814 which I just restrung on Tuesday. I simply thread the new string up through the bottom of the end piece placing the end string loop on the hook as it comes up. No need for special tools. I occassionally need to pinch the loops to get an initial fit. This is much easier then sticking the loop through the top of the end piece and trying to lasso the hook.

[Ivan Kelsall]

As a rider to this topic,does anyone experience difficulty in getting the string loop over the string post because the loop's too small ?. I've had this problem with D'Addario J-74's & their FT-74' strings. I did e-mail D'Addario re.this & received a very polite e-mail from their quality controller who said he'd look into the problem.
# #The problem is with the wound strings. The winding rides too far up the loop closing it up. The problem is sporadic,sometimes the strings are ok,sometimes not,
# # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # # #Saska

[Stephen Perry]

Some batches are that way. I buy a gross at a time, so a gross is a lot of loop stretching. Just takes a second to jamb something up through the loop. Stretch it a bit.

[Ivan Kelsall]

I've had to do quite a bit of that Steve,the only problem is that with a material such as high tensile steel wire,the slightest kink or nick in the loop & when you tighten the string up, it's a breaker. It's only happened a couple of times,but i does happen.
When stringing up my Webers,i do the same as Mark above & push the string thro'the bottom of the tailpiece. The only problem is,that the twisted part of the string loop is very stiff & i have to bend the loop downwards with a pair of pliers
in order to get the loop to pass over the binding post. Again, this is ok as long as you take great care that you don't damage the string. Having said all this, doing a bit of loop stretching & bending,is nothing compared to the trauma induced by tightening the 'E' string up to pitch - thank the good Lord for beer !!!,
Saska