Wanted to get opinions from experts if this is possble ? Or because of the way they were constructed do you lose tone and sound quality. I understand you can switch the nut and bridge but wondered about bracing, construction, etc.
Thanks,
Kip
Wanted to get opinions from experts if this is possble ? Or because of the way they were constructed do you lose tone and sound quality. I understand you can switch the nut and bridge but wondered about bracing, construction, etc.
Thanks,
Kip
Glenn F Made by Allen Jones
The old Gibson 'A' mandolins had only one transverse brace, the carving is symmetrical, and, other than the pick guard, they don't really care if they're strung lefty or righty.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
Except... since the slots were grooved upside down (left to right) deeper shallower, or whatever, you will have to reverse the bridge (if removable) and to install a new nut and groove it appropriately.Originally Posted by (sunburst @ Sep. 30 2007, 22:29)
Assuming you have no pick guard to address (if it has one, upside down is difficult to use) then that is not an issue.
Being a lefty, I wanted to start with a lefty mando but I started on a rightly without knowing what a lefty was...the fingers work correctly if you start in one way or the other.
I'm a bit confused by your comments about being "grooved upside down", but at any rate, it's not as simple as "reversing" the bridge.
If you expect the intonation to be anywhere near correct, it must be replaced by a bridge that the intonation has been cut from the left hand aspect. Just reversing it will, at best, be a crapshoot.
Also, unless the string slots were totally redone, rather than just "good enough" and if that original saddle had been cut correctly, every string will likely buzz because of the remaining built in back angle of the original slots.
Ron
My wife says I don't pay enough attention to what she says....
(Or something like that...)
To clarify, I took that statement as meaning that the OP understands that the nut and bridge would have to be replaced (switched), so I didn't see the need to go into all that. The question was about the structure and how it would be affected by opposite stringing.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
Thanks a bunch for all the replys. Unfortunatley I play true lefty, been playing for 2 years, intermediate player level.
It sounds like I will be OK as long as I get someone to replace the nut & bridge with a "real" lefty version of these and then set it up real good. I will look for one without a guard. This seemed like a potential alternative to me to obtain a great "A" for a price I could afford (1000-1500 range).
Did I translate correctly ?
Glenn F Made by Allen Jones
Sorry, I don't speak lefty.
.did uoy ,seY
eimaJ
There are two things to aim at in life: first, to get what you want; and, after that, to enjoy it. Only the wisest of mankind achieve the second. Logan Pearsall Smith, 1865 - 1946
+ Give Blood, Save a Life +
The nut would need to be replaced, but couldn't you just flip the saddle around (or is this a one piece bridge?)
If you had an old bowlback that didn't have a compensated saddle you could. It the bridge has a compensated saddle just flipping it would result in the intonation being wrong.
"bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--Jim Garber
Take a close look here and you should see what the problem will be.
Yes, it will "kinda" sound OK...
As long as you don't stray far from the nut end during your playing. If you play high up on the board, it wil become very apparent.
Ron
My wife says I don't pay enough attention to what she says....
(Or something like that...)
Some saddles are symmetrical. That won't fix the left hand right hand issue though the more I think about it. The bass side would be all the way forward, and the treble all the way back (opposite of what it should be)
-b
weird that I was looking at an old Gibson A oval (what sweet sound it had,I think I finally understand the whole mandolin spoke to me thing)today and thinking the same thing. I did notice that the one piece bridge was taller on the G string side but seemed to be straight across so I was wondering if this bridge could be reversed or would it need to be replaced along with the nut? This one was missing the pickguard but there were holes in the side of the fretboard where the pins had been. Mr. Hamlett, you up to the task of cleaning up and converting one of these if I should MAS-out?
On the other hand, I had a Gibson A that came to me with the bridge "reversed" and I noticed no difference in sound either way. It intonated correctly and everything. Your mileage may vary, as they say.
--Milan
"And what is good, Phaedrus, and what is not good--Need we ask anyone to tell us these things?"
Yea, but a right- to -left conversion is quite a different reversal. Just flipping the bridge on a right hand instrument doesn't change things that much. Flipping the instrument end to end and restringing it makes a good 3/8" difference in scale length (shorter on the bass side, longer on the treble side instead of the other way around) You'd have to cut a new saddle from ebony or find someone who sells them. Cumberland Acoustics might make one, I think you can buy just the saddle portion of the bridge.
They are available from different sources. I'm pretty sure Roger Siminoff is one who offers them.
Ron
My wife says I don't pay enough attention to what she says....
(Or something like that...)
Normally, when a bridge is higher on one side than the other, it is because the surface of the fretboard is not quite perfectly plumb with the top of the arch of the soundboard. Either the dovetail was off of plumb a touch or the soundboard is graduated not quite symetrically, neither of which is an earthshaking situation in and of itself as long as the setup is correctly compensated for.
In fact, sometimes a fretboard might be intentionally canted a bit for surmised ease of playing.
It's unlikely, however that bridge can be reversed without doubling what small bit of difference there was to start with.
A new bridge, compensated for that difference will likely be necessary.
Ron
My wife says I don't pay enough attention to what she says....
(Or something like that...)
Ron,
This was a one piece bridge with no compensations in it the top was actually sloped. there was also a small hole through the brdgie on 1 side. I saw this on at least 2 of the old A's that were in this store. 2 were tagged 1916 and 1919. I have to go back later this week so I will try and get pics unless somebody else recognizes what I am talking about.
The hole is for mounting the pickguard.
Bottom liner, sounds like the idea will work....... Now just have to find a great sounding old Gibson A. Hmmmmmmmm The have it converted, that will probably cost at least one old engagement ring I have laying around.
Glenn F Made by Allen Jones
Kip,
The one I saw isn't much more than that 615 probably cost you.
so you know of what I speak?
several diff opinions on bridge, my guess is a new one will be required to make it right.
Glenn F Made by Allen Jones
If I may be so bold as to offer a visual aid do help understand what Ron is speaking of.
The top picture shows a bridge higher on the g string side but it matches the pitch of the fingerboard (shown as the smaller rectangle).
The bottom picture shows the same mandolin with the bridge reversed. It will not work if the bridge is higher on one side to match a fingerboard that is not in the same plane from side to side as the top of the mandolin.
Bill Snyder
point well made, real lefty bridge required vs. rightly flipped. i am sure that is what is required and prepared for that. my real question was about flipping the whole mandolin around and if that would mess up the tone due to internal bracing and all that builder stuff. sounds like that will make do differance at all. so i am good to go, now off to find a great sound old Gibson "A" for a price that my wife understands.
Glenn F Made by Allen Jones
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks