Maple mandonaught

**martinedwards** · May-19-2007, 4:53am

here we go folks, the latest installment in the mandonaught saga.

I'm gradually narrowing the nut as my playing improves...... I started making these as I couldn't play a normal thin mando neck. #

this one plays really nicely. #The bridge needs re-done as its slightly asymetrical, but it's a floater, so no worries there........ #the nut is also a whisker out so I'll re-do it aswell

it's a lot "tighter" sounding than the walnut mandonaughts. #it'll open up no doubt, but I personally prefer a bit more bottom end.....

ah well, it LOOKS great anyway!!
back & sides maple, binding & fretboard rosewood
theres a maple veneer under the fingerboard too
neck walnut, top sitka spruce.
rosette leopardwood with maple purfling.
two way adjustable trusstod from Sam in Tiawan
Stewmac tuners & tail

**martinedwards** · May-19-2007, 4:54am

**martinedwards** · May-19-2007, 4:55am

next one is already started, Back to walnut with a cutaway and a spalted maple rosette

**Bernie Daniel** · May-19-2007, 6:37am

What a beautiful instrument! #

I would love to hear what it sounds like. #No doubt it is much more "resonant" then a typical mandolin? #

Can you give some dimensions and would you happen to have an idea of the relative volume of the sound chamber relative to a typical F4 or F5?

I'm thinking it sounds like a cross between a mandolin and tenor guitar? #

Which begs the question when will you be finished with the 'dola and 'cello members of you family?

**brunello97** · May-19-2007, 7:04am

Beautfiul, Martin. I second Bernie's last two questions!

Mick

**Gibson A5** · May-19-2007, 8:03am

Looks great. You might want to try experimenting with different scale lengths for your design and see if moving back the bridge over the wider part of the body makes any difference in the tone or loudness. Or you may have already tried that. In any event, great looking instrument.
Bill P.

**Bill Snyder** · May-19-2007, 8:46am

Martin,
Most people post pictures of their new instruments in the Post a Picture section so more people see them, but since you have pictures here could you post one of your mandonaught next to a normal a or f style. I suspect this instrument is not as big as it looks.

**martinedwards** · May-19-2007, 8:54am

Originally Posted by (Mandolin1944 @ May 19 2007, 12:37)

What a beautiful instrument! #

I would love to hear what it sounds like. #No doubt it is much more "resonant" then a typical mandolin? #

not ready for a soundclick yet though if you go to my soundclick site there are a few of the walnut 'naughts here....... titian pigtails has the zouk & a mando together

Originally Posted by

Can you give some dimensions and would you happen to have an idea of the relative volume of the sound chamber relative to a typical F4 or F5?

At it's widest its roughly 10",
13" from tailpiece to neck/body join
scale is standard 13 & a bit from Stewmac
oh yes, and about 2" deep

as to comparing it to a "real" mando, I ain't got one to try it, but I have a web pal whos played both & she says Mine are really loud........

Originally Posted by

Which begs the question when will you be finished with the 'dola and 'cello members of you family?

well, I've made a jumbo guitar shaped Zouk tuned like an OM, does that count?

Originally Posted by

Looks great. #You might want to try experimenting with different scale lengths for your design and see if moving back the bridge over the wider part of the body makes any difference in the tone or loudness.

yup, makes sense, it could happen, I'd need to back in on the upper bouts though and I'd end up back with a teadrop shape again.....

some of these days I'll have to try a "real" mando or zouk just to see.........

Thanks for the encouraging words folks, it means a lot!!

**martinedwards** · May-19-2007, 9:01am

Originally Posted by (Curious @ May 19 2007, 14:46)

Martin,
Most people post pictures of their new instruments in the Post a Picture section so more people see them, but since you have pictures here could you post one of your mandonaught next to a normal a or f style. I suspect this instrument is not as big as it looks.

Ah, but how big do you think it looks?!!!

if I HAD a normal mando I would, but I dont!!

scale length is standard mando........

**Antlurz** · May-19-2007, 2:09pm

I'll bet that exact same instrument with an inch longer scale would enhance that "bottom end" you like. Kicking the bridge back into that bigger area of the bout should make a noticible difference, and since you have a big hands problem, I'd assume the longer scale would suit you.

Ron

**Jim Nollman** · May-19-2007, 7:11pm

the dimensions remind me a lot of a Kay two point.

**fred d** · May-19-2007, 7:26pm

I'm drooling all over my computer I WANT ONE how much how soon Do I sell the House Kids Dog? apprienis INDENTURED, slave WHAT? FRED

**martinedwards** · May-20-2007, 3:31am

prolly issues with posting price discussions........

a bunch of other fora have them anyway.....

there's a PM in your in-box!!

as to the longer scale, yeah your right, but I'm not cutting my own fret slots so either........

I gotta find another supplier ( other than stewmac)........

chop down a guitar neck and loose out on the over the octave frets that I cant reach ANYWAY......

or maybe move to a 12th fret neck join with a cutaway to move the bridge in a little..........

**Bill Snyder** · May-20-2007, 7:03am

That bridge placement is hard to work out.
I have drawn up one that joins at the 12th. I would still like to get the bridge a bit further down into the lower bout but I want to use a standard 13 7/8" scale.
I hope to get the time to build it this summer.

**Bill Snyder** · May-20-2007, 7:11am

Howe and Orme managed to get the bridge futher down the body by using a 9th fret join and a SMALL body. The shape of my design was inspired by the Howe Orme but I made my body larger. Roughly 9" wide by 12 5/16" long.
The Howe and Orme's are more like 7" wide.

The photo comes from Bob DeVellis'site.

**The cobbler** · May-20-2007, 8:36am

Wow! Great stuff. does it play as good as it looks.

**martinedwards** · May-20-2007, 8:40am

yeah I'm gonna have to do a fairly serious re-design to get the bridge down there, maybe open ut the waist slightly?

Or possibly shorten the front bouts to where the end of the fingerboard is now........

Oh I dunno!!

I've just started another in the same mould (but with a cutaway) so I'll try the 12th, or maybe even 10th fret for a join to see......

My main problem is a lack of real instruments to get my hands on as there just isnt much of a mando culture round here. #Apalachia it aint!

the archtop beauty over in pics is a real thought provoker.....

I reckon the next generation will have a shorter body and maybe a wider waist.......

More WC Fields than Tyra Banks y'know?

**JEStanek** · May-20-2007, 10:16am

Martin,
I would call what you've built a real mando.
Jamie

**martinedwards** · May-20-2007, 10:35am

thanks Jamie, in the tangible hold it in my hands and play it sense, yes,

in the people recognise it and say "hey that's a mandolin" sense, maybe not!!!

**Antlurz** · May-20-2007, 12:43pm

Martin...

LMI will cut you a board with about any scale length you need. Very reasonably priced as well.

Look in their shop services section and board slotting sections for options. They are good to work with.

They don't come right out and say they cut custom lengths, but they do if you ask. I've never been charged extra for it either, just the normal slotting charges, but you have to explain what you want...

Ron

**martinedwards** · May-20-2007, 3:40pm

worth a look, thanks!!

**wichitamando** · May-20-2007, 5:16pm

I love the leopardwood rosette.

**Gibson A5** · May-21-2007, 6:39am

Martin, since you already have another started, you might want to look at putting just a little more neck angle on that one if you’re going to have a floating bridge and the strings attached at the tail piece. This would give you more pressure on the bridge to transfer the sound and hold the bridge in place a little better. It might give it a little more volume. I know this from some experience I had building Ukes with floating bridges and it seems to help. Just a thought.
Bill P.

**martinedwards** · May-21-2007, 8:35am

Yup,I'd been looking at that (after reading one of Siminoff's books......)

I my try a pinned bridge too.......

the more I learn the more I realise I STILL have to learn:p

**Bill Snyder** · May-21-2007, 9:01am

Originally Posted by (martinedwards @ May 20 2007, 08:40)

... so I'll try the 12th, or maybe even 10th fret for a join to see......

The problem with a 10th fret join is it makes it more difficult to play up the neck.
Butch Baldessari has a 4 sting guitar shaped mandolin for sale in the classified right now. It uses a classical guitar style bridge. The listing says that he has used the mandolin strung with nylon and steel strings.

Listing here.