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Thread: Distressing, antiquing how to?

  1. #1
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    Need advice on how to make new gold plated machine tuners look 80 yrs old.

    Thanks,

    MandoCowboy

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    There was a Stew-Mac Trade Secret newsletter about this a little while back. I have it at home, but maybe someone else has it handy.
    If I remember correctly, you scuff-sand the tuners, then brush them with etching solution (used in printed circuit board manufacturing - available at Radio Shack). There are some other things, but I don't recall all of them.

    I'll see if I can post a link tonight.
    Kent Barnes
    Flower Mound, TX
    http://www.harlanmandolins.com

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    wait 80 years???
    Look up (to see whats comin down)

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    Someone posted this link the other day. This guy uses acid fumes to do the job, someone also recommended using a chemical they sell at Michael's crafts stores for aging metalic ceramic glaze.

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    If they're gold, 80 years won't tarnish them; gold doesn't tarnish. Gold plating will wear off, and dirt accumulate in crevises and such.

    There are ways to accomplish the aging process. The Relic Deluxe system seems to work well enough. But...

    I'd use a more jewelry chemistry based process, but that's what I'm familiar with, and I'm not sure I like the acid etching of parts, either by dip or by fume, as it isn't nearly as controllable as I'd want, nor is it selective. "Normal" wear and tear on guitar parts does not cause rust in areas where there isn't contact with the player, IMO.

    Anyway, I'm rambling.

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    You can soak them in amonia for a little while and then rinse them off good. I will eat the plating and give an aged look. It is one of several methods, but quite easy and can be done without special materials.
    Have a Great Day!
    Joe Vest

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    Quote Originally Posted by
    I will eat the plating and give an aged look
    That's darned nice of you Joe. I'm sure that'll age them tuners.
    "bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"

    --Jim Garber

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    What can I say? I was getting ready for lunch and was hungry. I don't have enough roughage in my diet? I am a terrible spellar? I don't know how to type? Oh well, I just did not bother to read before I hit post. Sorry .
    Have a Great Day!
    Joe Vest

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    Here's the link to the StewMac page I mentioned.

    StewMac link



    Kent Barnes
    Flower Mound, TX
    http://www.harlanmandolins.com

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    Don't be sorry, I figured you were giving away a Gibson trade secret or something.
    "bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"

    --Jim Garber

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    The traditional way that jewelers 'antique' real gold or gold plated, or silver or silver plate items is to apply black lacquer over the recesses, let it dry a bit then wipe off the excess as much as you want. Silver will naturally tarnish but high carat gold will not tarnish.

    Another trick is to use a wipe on blackener, such as a tool black. It may or not attack a real gold plate (depending if it had a copper content in it's alloy) but it will change un-lacquered brass or brass plate. Unfortunately if you try to high polish relieve the highlights you will also remove a thin electroplating coating. Use this method only on solid brass if you want a bright highlight. After you finish then put on a thin clear lacquer to protect it.

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    I would also look at some of the closeups in the archive of gold plated tuners to get an idea of what aged tuners should look like.

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    I use a three-step process:

    1. Put the tuners in the same cage where you keep your rabbits. Two weeks should be enough
    2. Rinse the tuners in the cheapest wine you can find.
    C. Put the tuner in a burlap sack along with 10' of heavy rusted chain and shake for ten minutes.

    The same process can be used to distress a mandolin, but you should check the rabbit cage 3-4 times a day until the
    requisite effect is achieved ... it's a subjective kind of thing. Kind of like "pinky posting"

    Curt

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    Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I don't have 80 years to work with nor do I have rabbits, so I'll have to pass on those 2. I'll experiment a little with the other tips and see what comes out.

    If there's any more do's and dont's please chime in.

    Big Joe, some how I think having lunch with you would be an adventure.

    MandoCowboy

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    I tried the amonia suggestion, but that did not work. Is gold plating bullet proof or something?

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    Quote Originally Posted by (MandoCowboy @ April 12 2007, 12:18)
    I tried the amonia suggestion, but that did not work. Is gold plating bullet proof or something?
    If it is real gold plate then there will be not effect by using even a strong ammonia solution. In the normal process of cleaning carat gold we use an ammonia solution. The ammonia will attack any tarnished brass alloy which is a component of the gold alloy making the brass bright. Most of the time a maker will use a lacquer coating to assure that a thin gold plate will not rub off.

    The process of using an alkaline bath to change the color to dark likely be used only for common metals such a zinc aluminum (die castings) or a lead based brass alloy.

    I can only speak from experience of manufacturing both solid (14/18k) and gold plated products. There are two processes for producing an antique finish.

    The most common is to use a black or dark brown paint (usually a lacquer or an oil based paint-such as Rustoleum) which is applied to the background, allowed to dry for a few minutes then wipe off the highlights.

    The second method is to use an electroplating process called 'smutting'. In this case an electroplate of genuine gold with brown to black alloys are deposited on the part then are relieved with light rouge. This process is rarely used and is unlikely to be performed by metal workers who are not skilled in the arts of electroplating.

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    Thanks for the tips. I'll try the paint idea.

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