Paul...
I wasn't referring to instruments, necessarily as such, but rather in general. Like jewlery and sculpture. Anything to express individuality. Designing your own house addition and then building it.
In general, just a broader range of interests and a willingness to try other things rather than limiting ones self to being just a bump on a log....
Ron
My wife says I don't pay enough attention to what she says....
(Or something like that...)
Let me add my two cents on CA. I have used it since 1973. The only issue I have ever had with it was a drop fill on a D-28 many years ago. What I didn't know at the time was that I should not have used a colorant to blend the repair. Over time, the patch has held up well, but the shade of the repair area is much darker than the rest of the top. My good friend that owns the Martin refuses to let me redo it. He feels that it keeps me humble by asking him to redo it every time he brings it out for a jam, or in for string changes.
Other than that, I have no idea how to get around the cap gluing its self on and what to do about it. Like everyone else, I clean the cap periodically and put a new cap on (which you can buy) or throw the glue out and buy a new bottle. I switched to Jet several years ago and use INSTA-SET accelerator. To eliminate the "Styrofoam" issue, I spray the work area with the acclerator first then add the CA....... NO more white stuff. I also keep a small fan in the immediate area when I use CA. I worked for Pittsburgh Corning Glass years ago and have a mild case of asbestoses, so I don't want anymore than fine Cuban cigar smoke in my lungs. Ken Cartwright
Cartwright's Music & Repair Shop
"I repair what others sell"
Stayton, Oregon
Well, since starting this thread, I've found that the bottles of CA that I drilled open with a 1/16" bit after they glued themselves shut have stayed open, whereas when I worked a pin into the holes they glued shut. Maybe the pin pressure temporarily pushes the plastic aside, but it swells shut again. So at present I'm modifying Paul's suggestion, Dale's, and a couple others. With a new bottle, cut off the top a little (probably not enough to open it, then drill through with a 1/16" inch bit. After using the glue (but no, not before you've mated the glued surfaces), wipe off the top, squeeze the bottle gently a few times to make sure it's open, and let it sit open a few minutes so any remnants of glue on the cap are dry. Then put the cap on. Finally, I store all these CA bottles upright, not on their side. (Whereas Gorilla Glue I store upside down.) Thanks for your help. Oh, and I'm also using nitrile gloves while gluing, though last night my gloves got glued to each other and to some strips of binding twice. Not easy to scrape stretchy nitrile from binding. Yechh!
The thing to do about the cap gluing itself on is to not use the cap. Saves lots of glue, and lots of hassle. CA loves to wick into places by capillary action. A cap is an invitation that makes it defy gravity. A pinhole is a thin enough invitation, 1/16" isn't.
I have found as I am increasingly careful about the barest proximity of the accelerator to the open bottles, the less I ever have to drill out the tip. In fact I don't ever have to do it anymore, though it was once not uncommon. A faint spritz of accelerator within fifteen feet of(or even in the same room with) an open bottle will put a trace into the bottle and push the contents toward trouble.
One more trick: before I invert the ca bottle, I squeeze it so that after I've dispensed some, releasing the squeeze sucks the glue remaining in the tip back into the bottle. 99% clog free.
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