So what about sharpening?

[Kirk Albrecht]

Thanks to the many voices who chimed in on my question about chisels. In the end I got a 6 chisel set from Garrett-Wade made in Czech for a good price with a wood box for protection. They seem nice, need some honing, but are sharp for now. I think they are a good set to begin with. I will look to add a couple gouges as well.

So now my new question - since I am just getting into this - are all sharpening stones the same? Some better than others? What should I look for? Also any ideas on "systems" and their usefulness would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Kirk Albrecht

[testore]

get yourself a honing guide,and a course medium and fine/Xtra fine stone. i like the japanese stones.but the honing guide is a must have for plane blades and chisels.

[P Josey]

I would recommend getting Leonard Lee's DVD on sharpening from Lee Valley.

[sunburst]

Arkansas stones are good, Japanese water stones are good, and there are probably others that are good.
For starting from scratch, I'd recommend the water stones. I use Arkansas stones as much or more than water stones, but that's because I've had them for years, and I'm used to them.
I don't use honing guides on stones, never have, and I don't consider them necessities, but they are sure handy, especially starting out.

The DVD is probably a good idea, though I haven't seen it and can't say for sure.

If you know someone who is good at sharpening, watching and getting some pointers might help, and seeing and feeling what "sharp" really is would be good so you know what the goal is.

There's a good chance you'll need to lap the backs of your new chisels, and re-grind the bevels before you can get them really sharp.

[Jonathan Peck]

This is a good tutorial:

http://www.antiquetools.com/sharp/

The article is written by Maurice Fraser.

[Greenmando]

A google search on Scary Sharp will guide you.

I use diamond stones, Arkansas stones, ceramic stones and Japanese stones. Use a buffer afterwards to get a keen edge. If you need to use a grinder to correct a edge do not let it heat up, heat will cause micro cracks.

I know it sounds wrong. But the sharper your tools are the less you will injure yourself. Too many accidents are caused by dull blades. The sharper it is the less you need to push or pull. Oh yes, push away as often as possible.

[jaydee]

Kirk,
I've been thinking about the same chisels. Please post a follow up once you've had a chance to use them some.
Jeremy

[Kirk Albrecht]

Jeremy -

I won't be using them for a while. My basement is unheated, and probably around 50 right now, too cold for doing much work except necessities. In April I will start doing some practicing once I have honed and flattened them.

I went out on a limb - not a brand name, but Garrett-Wade thought they were worth it (of course they were trying to sell them). They appear to be pretty good quality steel, nice handles which aren't completely round (so they won't roll off), and hardened to between 58-61 on the ? scale, which is good - hard but not killer for sharpening.

Kirk

[tree]

I second the Leonard Lee reference. You can also get it in book form. It is the best sharpening reference I've ever seen, and by a long shot. Concise, clear, thorough.

[jaydee]

Kirk,
In that case I'll take the plunge and we can compare notes as we go. I've had great luck with Garret Wade so far, I expect the chisels are a good buy.

Jeremy

[Stephanie Reiser]

and hardened to between 58-61 on the ? scale,

That would be the Rockwell Hardness scale.

I had purchased a few Sheffield gouges from G-W, and was not happy with the hardness, at all. I rarely use those instruments.
For sharpening I use the Arkansas stones, finishing up with the black Arkansas with a final stropping of red rouge on leather (or my work shoe, if I'm wearing it). I do not use a "guide" - never have.

[Big Joe]

My personal preference is whatever gets me to the point they need fine sharpening. Then I like the Japanese water stones. They are easy to use, don't leave much of a bu to deal with, and will give an extremely fine edge. I think the edge is keener than I get with the Arkansas stone or Diamond stone, though they are also good. Just like everyone uses a different pick to get what they like best, the same will be true with sharpening. Try several things and see what does the trick for you.

[Mattg]

I'll initially lap the chisel with a guide on either an Arkansas stone or a fine diamond surface. Subsequent maintenance sharpenings are done on a glass plate with fine(1200 or so grit) automotive sand paper. Then a quick polish on a homemade leather wheel imbibed with an ultra fine metal polish. Very quick and it makes a mirror finish on the blade. When I'm in practice, I can get a chisel amazingly sharp.

[ftlstrings]

I am going to have to second the scary sharp reference from before. I really like the speed and end result, as well as not having to worry about releveling my sharpening stones or accidentally gouging them with an errant chisel. I like to keep things in place with a veritas 2 honing guide, which is also quick and easy to use and gives me great results.

~M~