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Thread: Top/back plate cradle

  1. #1
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    I've been trying to thing of a lower budget cradle for when I start to build from scratch. Then today I saw this. What are the pros and cons of this?
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    Saving my 2 cents for a dollar.

  2. #2
    Registered User Steve Davis's Avatar
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    I've seen cradles made from laminated corrugated cardboard.
    Steve Davis

    I should really be practicing instead of sitting in front of the computer.

  3. #3
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    I use use a hot glue gun to attach blocks to a board quickly to make up a cradle as I want it, and use spring clamps to hold the workpiece in place, moving them around as needed. I'd want to be very sure of exactly what I wanted before building something more elaborate. Good to just get working!
    Tom




  4. #4
    Registered User RJinRI's Avatar
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    I used a 2" thick piece of epp foam with center cut out
    happy holidays

  5. #5
    Violins and Mandolins Stephanie Reiser's Avatar
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    I use an old beach towel, rolled up to support the edges. Then to keep the plate from drifting while carving, I have a block of pine board against the far edge of the bench to hold the end of the plate. It is not secured at all.
    I am, however, very impressed by some of the cradles I've seen here in the past.
    http://www.stephaniereiser.com then click mandolins

  6. #6
    Tony Bare
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    I made a cradle to carve a 2 point and it was sort of primative but it worked well enough. I cut the profile of the top out of 3/4 plywood but I cut it 1/4" smaller than the plates and then, with a chisel cut a 1/4 by 1/4 rabbit so that the plate sits in the recess. For a two point all I needed was one cradle because the plate fit either way. For an F it will require one for the front side and one for the back side. For the next one I will use a router with a slot cutter bit that has a bearing to controll the debth so that the rabbit will be uniform. I will still have to use a chisel in the areas that the router bit won't reach. The first one looked like it was cut out by a " snaggle toothed beaver". It should fit the front and back plates if I allow for the little tab that covers the neck heal. It will require some modifing in the scroll area since the scroll will have to recess lower when I carve the inside of the plate.
    Tony Bare

  7. #7
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    Plucker..

    Instead of going to all the trouble of cutting a rabbit, just trace the top on a piece of 1/4" masonsite and cut it out then glue the outside to the top of your form. Should be a lot faster. Repeat for the other side.

    Ron
    My wife says I don't pay enough attention to what she says....
    (Or something like that...)

  8. #8
    Registered User testore's Avatar
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    Check this out closely.It suspends the plate during graduating and I use it during other construction processes too. Not the best pic but I think you can figure it out.
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    vesselmandolins.blogspot.com

  9. #9
    Registered User Ken's Avatar
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    I make cradles from plaster of paris for each top and back. After carving the outside shape, I mix up the plaster, stuff it into a large zip lock bag and work the top or back into it. Not a production solution, but its cheap and for one at a time building it works great and gives you 100% support while carving the inside. Thought this was pretty common, surprised nobody else mentioned it yet.
    Ken
    Peace

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