Final sand

**Yonkle** · Oct-07-2006, 2:22am

I am about done with my #6 F5, I have a question maybe I should have asked 5 mandolins ago.
What grit sandpaper do most builders use on the last time sanding the back, front, sides and neck, getting it ready for finish work?
The reason I ask, I have a real nice quilt back and want to make the best of it.
I read once on this site about sanding, one person said QUOTE "if you sand any higher than 220 grit, you are gaining nothing, waste of time, finger tips, and sandpaper"
Another builder said "if you go up to 400 grit or even 600 grit you can bring out more figure in the maple"
Then read "if you get the wood too smooth the stain wont apply right"
SO... what is the general concensus on this topic. I know everybody has a opinion, but it would seem with all the builders in the world there would be a general "norm" that most use.
May seem like a elementary question, but I have noticed sandpaper can really change a piece of wood in a hurry.
Mostly concerned about high figure quilt how fine should I go? And whats the "norm" on Spruce Tops? Seems like fine grit changes the look of spruce moreso than maple. Thanks Jd

**Luthier** · Oct-07-2006, 6:11am

The 220 should suffice. Really. You do not need to go any finer but that is just one builder's opinion.
Don

**sunburst** · Oct-07-2006, 7:37am

A second 220 opinion. Sometimes I sand to 320 if there is some reason, but generally, 220 grit is enough for a surface that is to be dyed (stained with aliline or other dye) and sprayed or otherwise finished with lacquer, spirit varnish or oil varnish.

For oil finishes or the rubbed type (tung oil, etc.) sanding to a finer grit may be an advantage.

To decide for yourself, finish some wood scraps. Sand each scrap to about 80 grit, and then sand one to 120, one to 220, one to 320, and so forth. Apply your stains and finish to each one and then see where the improvement in the appearance stops.

**Jim Hilburn** · Oct-07-2006, 9:26am

220, but A LOT with 220, especially on the spruce. If hand sanding, you need to pay real attention to working straight with the grain. Even very slight arcing hand motions can leave scratches you can't see but show up when stained and there are probably some of those on there from when you were working with heavier paper. There have been times I wished I could go back and do it again and other times when I have gone back and done it again.
I like to go over the main faces of the top and back with 220 on a small palm sander. That may seem like an overly aggressive way to do it but actually leaves a much finer surface than working it by hand.

**Dale Ludewig** · Oct-07-2006, 9:46am

Another 220 vote. And another vote for the palm sander.

**HoGo** · Oct-09-2006, 4:12am

On the last one I went to 240, but that was because I forgot to buy 220 grit paper. Sand until you don't see scratches. Use naphtha to show the remaining scratches filled with dust. And I'd do some wetting with water and drying to raise compressed grain especially on the top otherwise it would show after staining.