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Thread: Moon Mandolins - to truss rod or not to truss rod

  1. #1
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    OK, thanks partly to advice from posters here I'm, once again, considering a Jimmy Moon mandolin.

    Everything I hear about them is good, but (probably 'cause I'm a guitarist of many years) I am worried by the fact that the standard Moon mando doesn't have an adjustable truss rod.

    I contacted Moon Guitars, and they were very prompt with their reply. They said that they don't put in a truss rod as standard, as Jimmy reckons the neck is stronger without the wood removed. They also say they can add a truss rod for £50.

    What do you guys think?

    Is the absence of an adjustable truss rod of serious concern? Does it seriously limit set-up options?

    Advice and thoughts appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Registered User Martin Jonas's Avatar
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    It's a topic that comes up quite frequently, so a search should give you some idea of the range of opinions. As far as I can see, an adjustable truss rod is much less important for mandolins than for guitars. As long as the builder knows what he's doing, the neck should be straight and should have the right relief as it comes out of the shop. The Mid-Mo, for example, has a non-adjustable truss rod and I've never heard of anybody having neck problems with it. The teens Gibsons have no truss rods and neck problems don't seem to be very common with them, compared to sunken tops and detached braces.

    Martin

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    Mary Yanocsko Mandobar's Avatar
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    bob givens did not use adjustable truss rods from what i have heard.
    so many mandolins, so little time.

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    The Fylde Octavious doesn't have a truss rod, it's so well constructed it doesn't need one, my 1917 Gibson A has managed 89 years without a truss rod and the neck is as straight as a die,
    and many more much older Gibsons don't have them and still have straight necks.

    Dave H
    2001 Paul Shippey oval hole
    1917 Gibson A pumpkin top
    1914 Vega Whyte Laydie style R tenor banjo
    Eastman 615 mandolin
    Eastman 615 mandola
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    2012 Weber Bitteroot F5

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    Been playing a Moon flattop for a few years without any problems whatsoever. Looks and sounds like a good design to me, for what it's worth. Short necks with the typical mandolin shapes are pretty stiff on their own.

    Peace, Mooh.

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    Thanks guys. I'm feeling more reassured all the time. Probably will go for a standard Moon.

    Any thoughts on set up issues when, for example, opting for heavier strings than Jimmy's workshop set-up had in mind?

    Sorry to go on with dumb questions, I just want to get it right.

  7. #7
    Registered User Bob DeVellis's Avatar
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    I'd trust the builder to give you the best advice. He doesn't want your instrument to self-destruct. He also has the most knowledge and experience with hos own designs.
    Bob DeVellis

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    Quote Originally Posted by (bobd @ April 20 2006, 10:54)
    I'd trust the builder to give you the best advice. #He doesn't want your instrument to self-destruct. #He also has the most knowledge and experience with hos own designs.
    Probably the single most concise argument so far as to why I should stop worrying. How come I never though of that myself... Doh! #

    Cheers bobd. I reckon that about does it. Subject to checking them out at TAMCO to see how they feel to me, I think I see a Moon mando in my near future...

  9. #9
    Registered User Frank Russell's Avatar
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    Some Givens mandolins, like my own, have adjustable trussrods, but you have to access them through the end hole with a special elongated tool. Frank
    FJ Russell


    Es mejor morir de pie que vivir de rodillas. E. Zapata

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    I wouldn't guage up on my Moon, not because of the truss rod issue, that's irrelevant, but because the top seems to be working plenty hard with "10s" (10/14/24/34) as it is. It seems to prefer light guage strings, after trying it with medium Flattops for a while.

    Peace, Mooh.

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    I'm not a fan of truss rods at all. A couple of my mandos over the years were given a "truss rod adjustment" in the shop. I never noticed it helping.
    Eyeballing down the neck from the bridge I often see mando necks swoop and curve, but always towards the nut from the 10th fret on back. The portion of the neck in the 11th - 15th fret range is virtually locked in place due to the neck/body joint. Therefore a truss adjsutment does nothing in this region.
    I believe if LLoyd had graphite re-bars at his disposal eighty years ago this would have become the preferred design.
    Wye Knot

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    Quote Originally Posted by (Mooh @ April 20 2006, 12:20)
    I wouldn't guage up on my Moon, not because of the truss rod issue, that's irrelevant, but because the top seems to be working plenty hard with "10s" (10/14/24/34) as it is. It seems to prefer light guage strings, after trying it with medium Flattops for a while.

    Peace, Mooh.
    Mooh, when you say working plenty hard enough do you mean struggling to cope, or just that you'd rather not push it?

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    jackofall...I'd rather not push it because it's working well now, besides, I like the feel of the 10s. To my ears it sounds great this way anyway. Hope this helps.

    Peace, Mooh.

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    I use light gauge strings on my Moon mandolin also--very easy to play and great sweet tone.


    Dena

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    I think there could be difference in tone between rodded & unrodded instruments.
    Any thoughts on that?

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    There could be a difference in tone contributable to the truss but there are so many other factors and considerations to take into account that even if you had two otherwise identical instruments, the tonal differences might be explained in other ways. I think it's a non-issue, if it sounds good, buy it.

    For what it's worth, it seems from speaking with Moon owners that that Moons are pretty consistent in quality.

    An aside here...My Moon has a deeper body than one belonging to a friend, and to my ears it benefits its tone (though as I've pointed out, it could be other things). If you have an opportunity to compare, this would be a much greater matter relating to tone than the truss rod, in my opinion. I am an obsessive-compulsive tinkerer too, so I've experimented with bridges, tuners, tailpieces, etc. As always, your milage may vary.

    In the end, trust your ears, hands, and heart.

    Peace, Mooh.

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    With a few exceptions,I've always used the graphite rods with no appreciable problems.
    Some players,however,expect and want a truss rod,so I will install one if requested.
    Right now,though,I'm building two mandos,a Redwood top and Sitka,both of which will get a two way rod similar to the "HotRods" StewMac sells for guitars. They work fine in guitars,which do usually require an adjustable system. I'll report on their efficiency in a couple of months.
    Jim

  18. #18
    Registered User trevor's Avatar
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    I've sold lots of Jimmy Moon's mandos, never had a neck problem. Also as others have said there are a lot of mandolins around without them that don't have neck problems.
    When I was opening my shop my manager John, who had 30 years experience selling guitars at the time but had seen few mnandos, took a look at one and remarked 'why put a truss rod in a neck that long' 'nough said.
    Trevor
    The Acoustic Music Co (TAMCO) Brighton England
    Over 150 mandolins in stock.
    www.theacousticmusicco.co.uk.

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