Mandola string guages

**mandobob** · Jan-25-2006, 9:27am

I just bought my first set of mandola strings (online Elderly order), and now that I have them, I wonder if they're too heavy? There seems to be a few different 'dola scale lengths but few string sets.
I bought .052 - .015

**acousticphd** · Jan-25-2006, 1:36pm

I also have a 17" flattop, made by Sawchyn, so maybe it is a good comparison. #The guages you cite sound about like a standard, medium-gauge roundwound mandola set, for eg, D'Addario mediums. #IMO, this is heavier than necessary on a flattop and I felt more stressful than necessary on the top and neck. #My top has just a little dip in it already after several years.
I use guages: .047, .035, .023, .013 (round wound with a plain steel 1st). #I've inched a little heavier than I started with in the beginning, too. #These feel good to me, though I think you easily go a little heavier on the C string, like .048 or 0.050. #I use the .023 because it's about the smallest wound string that is easy to find. #These are just ordinary phosphor bronze and steel guitar strings that I buy in bulk, and break out the ball ends to make loop-end strings, which is easy to do and a better deal once you know what guages you like.

**mandobob** · Jan-26-2006, 9:34am

Jeff
Thanks very much, I have Sawcyhn's page bookmarked and I stare longingly at his dolas! His prices seem very reasonable.
I was thinking along the same lines as the guages you describe, the D'Ad J76 seems like I'd be asking for trouble.
Any tips on de-balling a guitar string, I've never tried it.
Bob

**acousticphd** · Jan-26-2006, 3:49pm

Originally Posted by

de-balling a guitar string

Luckily this thread is too inconspicuous to get censored for that expression...

Sawchyn used to list his prices in Canadian dollars. #Not sure if that's the case now, but #if so, they are even better deals.

De-balling is not hard, though easier to show someone than to write it out. I recommend those longer-handled adjustable pliers which have the jaws turned forward @45 degrees - these have more leverage and work better than standard pliers.
So, imagine the ball as the wheel shaped hollow cylinder it is, with the loop held in the groove in the rim. #You want to crush the rim from its side edge, so that the cylinder wheel cracks and collapses. #Ie, holding the string straight away from you, like so, turn the groove upwards, and oriented vertically (parallel to the side of the plier jaws):
# # # #l #
# # # #l
# # # #l
lllll--l--lllll
lllll--l--lllll
lllll--l--lllll # #<<-- crush by biting down on this edge
lllll--l--lllll
lllll--l--lllll
lllll--l--lllll

Using the side of the plier jaws, grip the raised part of the rim but edging in as close to the string loop as you can, and crush the wheel. #Often it won't break out completely the first try, but you can rotate it, or even turn it flat and crush it again from another angle, and it usually breaks right out. # It really only takes 10-20 sec for most strings, so in a few minutes you can convert a full set. #Also, if you or your loved ones ever go around barefoot, do it directly over a trash can.

You might occasionally kink or nick a loop, but only the lightest string is likely to break. Even if that happens, it's pretty easy to make and tie a plain steel string. #Just loop the end of the string tightly over something small and rounded, like the tips of some needlenose pliers, leaving a couple inches to spare, and wrap 4-5 tight twists around the string with the short end. #It won't look factory smooth, but it will hold. #If you can believe it, before someone showed me how easy it was to break out the balls, I used to cut them all off and tie new loops.

**Potosimando** · Jan-26-2006, 7:45pm

When I got my Weber Absoroka (full-size 17"-scale A model, f-holes) several years ago, it came with standard D'Addario mandola strings (J76's, .015, .025, .035, .052)--newly put on by the original owner shortly before sending the mandola to me. #The instrument was hard to play, and seemed to be a bit choked-up in terms of volume. #I found out shortly thereafter that the instrument came originally with John Pearse Phosphor-Bronze mandola strings (lighter gauge than the D'Ad's). #So...I put the Pearses on, and the mandola instantly became a different instrument--much easier to play, and it sounded so much better in all respects. #So, I would recommend lightening up the strings a bit. #I wish I could tell you what the Pearse gauges are, but I don't know. #Maybe the gauges are listed on the JustStrings website. Good luck.

**mandroid** · Jan-26-2006, 8:38pm

I use GHS PF285 Octave mando set, on my 'dola, its only a hair thicker than a mandolin set. 12,22,32,44

**mandobob** · Jan-30-2006, 11:52am

acousticPHD, thank you for taking the time to explain that, I going to try it.
And mandroid, I was eyeing those OM strings myself, good to know they work, thank you as well.

**FrDNicholas** · Jan-31-2006, 6:36pm

MandoBob, If you are using a Trinity College Mandola, you might have to go to the GHS mandola strings, which are slightly lighter gauge than the D'Addario's. I have a Trinity College mandola and the endpins bent up when I put on the D'Addario's. I'm not sure if endpin is the correct term; it's the opposite end from the tuning pegs.

**WireBoy** · Feb-01-2006, 2:12am

My Weber Absaroka 'dola still has the strings that it was factory shipped with. #according to Paula, the would be GHS. #its time to change them.... i ordered a JFT76 set just to try something something different...

**Ted Eschliman** · Feb-01-2006, 5:34am

Good news for Mandolists who would rather play with Mandola strings than use them to tow cars: the .014-.049 gauge D'Addario J72 Mandola Lights...

They aren't available in stores yet, but they will be soon!