Collings Mandolin Tailpiece

[louisiana]

October 3, 2005

Hi folks,

I have been using Elixir Nanoweb strings on my new Collings MF5V mandolin.

One drawback that I've discovered with the design of the cool-looking Collings mandolin tailpiece is that, when securing the loop end of the string over the tailpiece post and then pulling the string through the corresponding hole in the tailpiece towards the headstock, the strings rub against the sides of the small metal holes, thus scratching (and possibly damaging) the delicate ultra-thin GoreTex coating on the wound G and D strings.

I thought about using pliers and crimping the loop ends of the strings to a semi-sharp point and inserting them into the metal tailpiece from the other direction, but I didn't know if this would fatigue the metal core and possibly cause breakage problems down the line.

Are there any Collings mando owners who hear that awful grinding sound when they pull a new set of strings through the tiny holes in the factory tailpiece?

Wouldn't it be better if Collings enlarged those string holes and lined them with some type of teflon bushing so that it wouldn't grind the new coated strings being slid through them?

I know that many mandolin players don't use coated strings but, it seems to me, that this tailpiece grinding could also damage the delicate windings of non-coated strings as well and may negatively effect their tone and longevity.

Is this tailpiece string abrasion issue also a problem with other manufacturer's metal tailpieces?

Am I installing my strings incorrectly?

Does anyone have any ideas on how to work around this problem I am having?

God bless,
"louisiana"

[fredfrank]

I don't think it would be a good idea to crimp the loop. I'm sure that would weaken it considerably. I don't use coated strings, but I'm sure you could minimize the damage by pulling the string through very slowly. It's not clear from your post, but it sounds like you said you hook the loop on the post and then pull it through. I'd pull it through and when the loop gets up to the post, that's when I would loop it over the post.

[Mando Medic]

I've installed every kind of string imaginable on my Collings as well as others Collings with this same tailpiece, which I believe is made by Randy Allen. I have found that watching the angle that you pull the string at makes all the difference. If you lay the string at about the same angle as the hole and not go over the bridge until you get to the end of the hole, you will minimize that sizzling sound. You can, and I have, take a fluted reamer and ream the rear holes out a little bit to minimize any sharp edges of the leading hole. In fact, Dremel makes the perfect star point reamer that is about 1/4" wide on the top, approximatly 1/4 in long and comes to a sharp point that looks like a counter sink with serious teeth that will do the job just right. Kenc
"Just my opinion, but I'm Cartwright."

[Mike Bunting]

I didn't like that tailpiece at all and put a James on my Collings..big improvement in restringing.

[Mando Medic]

So did I. Best tailpiece out there in my humble opinion. Kenc

[Bill James]

I like Ken's idea, it can't hurt to have a little more room inside the hole. I'm wondering if there is a roughness inside the hole causing the abrasion on the string coating. If so, there is a product called "crocus cord", it's like dental floss with fine grit impregnated into it. They make it down to .030 diameter. You could "floss" the inside of the holes with it to polish the surface. Trouble is, by the time you buy a roll of it and pay the shipping you'll have 15.00-20.00 bucks invested. Let me know if interested and I'll dig up a supplier for you.

[Jim Roberts]

I've changed strings on my Collings many times and never had a hint of this problem. #I'd call the folks at Collings. #They are great folks and they'll fix it if there is indeed a flaw in that particular tailpiece. #

I have a Bill James tailpiece on my other mandolin and it works great, too. #Fit and function seem flawless...just wish he'd design and produce a set of lightweight mandolin tuners that were as slick and didn't cost $500 like W's!