"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
That was a deal. Seems like someone here was just looking for one.
THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!
Jim
My Stream on Soundcloud
19th Century Tunes
Playing lately:
1924 Gibson A4 - 2018 Campanella A-5 - 2007 Brentrup A4C - 1915 Frank Merwin Ashley violin - Huss & Dalton DS - 1923 Gibson A2 black snakehead - '83 Flatiron A5-2 - 1939 Gibson L-00 - 1936 Epiphone Deluxe - 1928 Gibson L-5 - ca. 1890s Fairbanks Senator Banjo - ca. 1923 Vega Style M tenor banjo - ca. 1920 Weymann Style 25 Mandolin-Banjo - National RM-1
I've used Eezox and Scrub Buds to remove rust, sometimes fine steel wool as well; keep applying, wipe with paper towel, repeat as necessary. Once the red rust is gone, the Eezox will inhibit further rusting.
I've found that the scrub buds will not harm blued steel finishes, but still address the rust issues.
Well gang since I am the knuckle head that bought it we will see if I can work my magic!
Orcas Island Tonewoods
Free downloads of my mandolin CDs:
"Mandolin Graffiti"
"Mangler Of Bluegrass"
"Overhead At Darrington"
"Electric Mandolin Graffiti"
Navel jelly will remove the rust, will turn it black and stop rust, but a rusted clip is better than no clip.
THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!
If you aren't worried about a few scratches, one of those wire brushes that look like a toothbrush will do wonders. You can get a 3-pack at the Dollar Tree. One is nylon, one is brass, one is steel. Start with the brass and if that doesn't cut it, use the steel bristle. I use this technique for stuff that is pretty far gone, like tuners, screw heads, brackets, etc. I cover the jaws of my table top vise with a piece of soft leather and clamp them and then really work 'em over.
Pops, you mean "Naval" jelly, I think belly button jelly would just be gross.
Timothy F. Lewis
"If brains was lard, that boy couldn't grease a very big skillet" J.D. Clampett
The clamp is made from a white copper alloy, it is not plated and as such the color goes all the way through. You can polish this without fear of wearing through a plated surface.
My favorite polish is the German product called Simichrome, it is available at antique stores and at Amazon. It works well to polish frets and tailpiece covers also. Also good to polish plastic watch crystals for those of you still using a wristwatch!
A light coating of Renaissance Wax after polishing serves well to slow down the inevitable tarnishing. Renaissance is a microcrystalline conservator's wax available on line as well.
It looks like one of the screw holes is broken on the bargain clamp.
Mark
Mark Lynch
Darn, I missed that one. We have a very nice F-2 in the shop that needs one. I guess I will keep looking.
Charley
A bunch of stuff with four strings
Here's some Kluson tuners from the same guitar that I cleaned with the wire brush. Not perfect, but acceptable if the instrument has some wear showing. I also use the Dremel with the small wire brush wheel about the size of a Nickel. You can control where you are cleaning better with this technique if you have to work around areas that you don't want to touch.
I've stopped worrying about fixing destroyed Klusons now that you can buy them again
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
$445? Makes me thing a decent metal shop could make some $$'s making reproduction ones. They look pretty simple.
I bought a 1955 D-28 off of Ebay and it had the tuners replaced with the Pat Pending Grovers from the '60's. Found that Kluson is making the waffle backs again and bought a set and then followed the You Tube video from the Relic folks and aged them via their process. Let some folks look at the guitar and they couldn't tell the difference.
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