1915 Gibson A model

[Dempsey]

I just purchased an A style 1915 Gibson mandolin. The stamped number is 2626 and the serial number is 25037. It has an adjustable bridge (I assume not original) and Elite tuners (that could not be original). It looks as if it has not been played much as it has an almost perfect finish, no cracks, and frets are not worn. It is loud and bright. I'm interested in finding out more about it if anyone has clues as to where to look. Mandolin Archives does not have this serial number listed.

[Ray(T)]

Both the numbers point firmly to 1914 - probably in the factory at the same time as my '14 A. As you say, neither the tuners nor bridge are original.

[acousticphd]

Both the tuners and bridge are upgrades to be glad of. Lack of fret wear would suggest it has had a refret, also a plus, and it looks like it has the original tailpiece (?). Looks like one to go a few miles with!

[Br1ck]

That is a beautiful mandolin. Over a hundred years old!

[Jamie-boy]

Mine has had a few of the same upgrades. Adjustable bridge, newer tuners, missing pickguard, probable refret. Mine has also had an upgrade to the headstock (is that even a thing?). Inlaid logo and fleur-de-lis. Not a museum piece by any stretch, but nice sounding. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine.

Jim

[Denny Gies]

Nice catch.

[Dempsey]

Nice catch.

Denny, Ironically, I found this mandolin in Guitar Center in Butler Plaza. It was the only mandolin in the entire store. You don't know anything about its history do you? I have ordered the new book on Gibson Mandolins but it has not arrived yet.

[311Woody]

I am in the UK and have read with interest the above posts. I have recently purchased and A Model Gibson Mandolin, number 4073, which according to the Gibson website dates it in 1907. It needs a bit of tlc and as far as I can make out it is still in original condition. The problem is the pickplate, which as you can see is damaged beyond repair. I am planning to get some light restoration undertaken by a specialist, but would like top source a new pickplate. Can anyone help with a contact please? All help gratefully received.

[pops1]

Any one who repairs instruments should be able to make you a new pickguard. Usually I buy this in sheets and make what I need. If you have a Martin guitar, or Fender strat, they are so common that you can buy one for them, but for most they are made to fit.

[pheffernan]

The problem is the pickplate, which as you can see is damaged beyond repair. I am planning to get some light restoration undertaken by a specialist, but would like top source a new pickplate. Can anyone help with a contact please? All help gratefully received.

Paul Fox might be able to help you: http://www.fox-guitars.com/catalog/g...ket-c1910-1916

[Ray(T)]

I am in the UK and have read with interest the above posts. I have recently purchased and A Model Gibson Mandolin, number 4073, which according to the Gibson website dates it in 1907. It needs a bit of tlc and as far as I can make out it is still in original condition. The problem is the pickplate, which as you can see is damaged beyond repair. I am planning to get some light restoration undertaken by a specialist, but would like top source a new pickplate. Can anyone help with a contact please? All help gratefully received.

Welcome to the forum from another UK resident. That serial number would date it to 1905 but I don't think for a minute it's as early as that - possibly mid to late teens. Have another look at it and get back to us; it should be possible to date it exactly. It should have two numbers - one on the label (usually in pencil which is best read with a bright light from various angles) and a, so called, "Factory Order Number" stamped on the neck block.

The pickguard is suffering the typical degeneration problems these mandolins can suffer from. My guess is that it has been stored in the case for an extended period. You're very unlikely to find an original one in the UK so I'd either try to live without one, design and have something tasteful made for it or, as other have indicated, get a replica built (probably by someone in the US) but the design of the pickguards changed and you will ideally need a date so you can work out which one to order.

P.S. If you haven't done so already, pull the old pickguard off as a gassing/burning pickguard is likely to mark the top. You see loads of "guardless" As from that period with brown stains in that area.

[311Woody]

Welcome to the forum from another UK resident. That serial number would date it to 1905 but I don't think for a minute it's as early as that - possibly mid to late teens. Have another look at it and get back to us; it should be possible to date it exactly. It should have two numbers - one on the label (usually in pencil which is best read with a bright light from various angles) and a, so called, "Factory Order Number" stamped on the neck block.

The pickguard is suffering the typical degeneration problems these mandolins can suffer from. My guess is that it has been stored in the case for an extended period. You're very unlikely to find an original one in the UK so I'd either try to live without one, design and have something tasteful made for it or, as other have indicated, get a replica built (probably by someone in the US) but the design of the pickguards changed and you will ideally need a date so you can work out which one to order.

P.S. If you haven't done so already, pull the old pickguard off as a gassing/burning pickguard is likely to mark the top. You see loads of "guardless" As from that period with brown stains in that area.

Thanks for the advice and help.
Thanks pheffernan, I have emailed Paul Fox and am waiting a reply.
Hi Ray, the style on the label looks like it is an 'a', the number 4073, but there might be a '1' after that - all very faded as you can imagine.
Which is the neck block please? I have looked carefully, but cannot see another number anywhere on the outside.
Kind regards
Chris

[MikeEdgerton]

Look through the sound hole towards the neck. Is there a number stamped there?

Also, is any of the metal pickguard hardware there? You need the metal clamp that holds it in place. Without the clamp the new pickguard isn't going to do much for you.

[lflngpicker]

This is very nice! Congrats. I love our 1913 A.

[311Woody]

Hi Mike - none of the ironwork is there - hopefully I can source the necessary from somewhere. I have been given the name Paul Fox. Checking his website, he might be able to supply a new pickguard with the necessary brackets. I have sent an email and am waiting a reply.
Looking through the soundhole, the factory order number is 11027. I thought the serial number I thought to be 4073, now looks like it might have a '1' after, making it 40731. Very difficult to make out after all these years. The style written on the label is either a very rounded 'A' or it could be 'G'. I don't think they made a 'G' model did they?

[pheffernan]

A Gibson A mandolin with a 1918 manufacture date, according to traditional estimates, and a 1917 shipment date, according to Spann, appears in the archives with the same FON of 11027 and a serial number of 40486: http://www.mandolinarchive.com/gibson/serial/40486

[MikeEdgerton]

Hi Mike - none of the ironwork is there - hopefully I can source the necessary from somewhere. I have been given the name Paul Fox. Checking his website, he might be able to supply a new pickguard with the necessary brackets. I have sent an email and am waiting a reply.

Do yourself a favor and try to find the pickguard clamp first before ordering the guard. You can place a wanted ad here in the classifieds, you can watch eBay. They come up every now and then but they aren't readily available. If you don't care about the instrument looking original then there are alternatives. Nobody makes a replica clamp.

[pops1]

Take the old one off while you are waiting to make a new one so it doesn't damage your mandolin.

[Ray(T)]

Hi Mike - none of the ironwork is there - hopefully I can source the necessary from somewhere. I have been given the name Paul Fox. Checking his website, he might be able to supply a new pickguard with the necessary brackets. I have sent an email and am waiting a reply.
Looking through the soundhole, the factory order number is 11027. I thought the serial number I thought to be 4073, now looks like it might have a '1' after, making it 40731. Very difficult to make out after all these years. The style written on the label is either a very rounded 'A' or it could be 'G'. I don't think they made a 'G' model did they?

Both numbers point firmly to 1917 and, outwardly, it looks like a straight A to me. Pheffernan refers to "Spann's Guide" - author, researcher and cafe memnber Joe Spann has published the authoritative guide to Gibson serial and factory order numbers. You can probably forget any other source

My advice re pickguards would be that unless you can find an original one of the right style, a replica or something modern which leaves the mandolin itself untouched, you're best doing without. I've seen many Gibson mandolins of this age with no guard. Most original parts for a mandolin of this age are difficult to come by, especially in the UK, but you can get new tuners with the right spacing from StewMac in the US - look for Gibson "Restoration" tuners -I have a set of their "aged" models on one of my As. Don't get rid of the originals they will add to the value of the instrument if yiu decide to pass it on.

[311Woody]

Hi pops1 - I don't like messing unless I have a good idea what I'm doing. How can I take the old one off please?

[pops1]

It looks like yours is missing the metal clasp, so if you take something thin and slide it between the fingerboard and the pickguard, carefully, it should come straight off. There should be a pin, like a nail into the neck. I would first try to pull it off by hand, but depending how tight it is you may need to pry. Be careful, slow and pry straight out away from the fingerboard. The pin or nail should only be around one quarter to one half inch long. There may be a second post going into your bridge, most of this vintage had that as a support. That should come out easily, just be aware it is there when prying the top by the neck.

[Ray(T)]

Just to enlarge on what pops1 has said. There should be a total of three pins - a pointy one which goes into a hole in the bridge (which may or may not be filled with a felt like substance) and two into the neck. To put it bluntly, the ones into the neck are simply nails and, if you look carefully, you will likely see that the heads have been ground off flush with the edge of the pickguard. It should simply be a matter of prizing the thing off but how simple will depend how securely implanted the nails are and whether they've been driven in straight or at an angle. They clearly weren't designed to be easily taken off and on.

[311Woody]

Great, thanks guys - I will give it a go