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Thread: Deconstructing Stella

  1. #1
    Mando-Accumulator Jim Garber's Avatar
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    This one was an eBay buy some time ago, all mahogany as far as I can determine. The back was partly off, so I figured I'd open it up altogther, fix whatever cracks (one or two); reglue braces, clean it up. Very interesting how crudely this was made. It was budget instrument but compared to the cheapest Pacrim stuff now, this is pretty primitive from the inside. Of course most people don't see or care as long as it plays all right, which it probably does.

    The braces are pretty hefty and show lots of signs of file marks etc. Lots of glue drips all over the thing, tho it is possible that some are not factory original.

    If any one has any further suggestions as to best repair it, I would appreciate it. I am not a pro but figured this one is fine to experiment with.

    Jim



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  2. #2
    Mando-Accumulator Jim Garber's Avatar
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    Here is another view of it with the back removed.

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  3. #3
    Mando-Accumulator Jim Garber's Avatar
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    Here is what it looks like from the front.

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  4. #4
    Registered User John Bertotti's Avatar
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    Hey Jim you know my experience is limited to only a couple luthier type tasks. I will respond with my take since no one else has. I cracked my redwood top and had to glue it. I glued a temporary bit of wood on either side of the crack , worked glue into it and put my clamp on the temporary blocks. This was a crack with no gap, it fit well. If there is a significant gap you may need to fit in a patch. As far as the braces go I would take a look at some of your other instruments and compare the top thicknesses. If similar I would lightly flex them for a point of reference then do the same with your repaired top. If it seems a whole lot stiffer you may want to narrow the braces a bit. I would clean everything up inside just because I'm anal that way. Ok I'm sure I messed this up somehow and now a pro will correct me. I hope! Thanks all John
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  5. #5
    Mando-Accumulator Jim Garber's Avatar
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    It is so crude inside... I do have an inclination to thin out the braces and to replace the linings with new ones, like the ones in my Stew Mac kit.

    Jim
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  6. #6
    Café habitué Paul Hostetter's Avatar
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    Jim - I’d wager the mandolin is 100% birch, not mahogany.

    The bracing and interior details are quite typical of Schmidt at that time. Harmony carried the tradition on quite well in somewhat similar mandolins they made under their Stella and Harmony brands.

    I think the only way to glue up cracks is with them at rest and closed. Forcing them shut is an invitation to a reaction: reopened cracks. Gently humidify, if necessary, to close the cracks, and then glue them. Use chips inside to span that crack judiciously. On hardwoods like this mandolin is made from, the chips are bound to give way. Stuffing a splint into the crack, besides being impossible to conceal or even make look decent, will result in deformation of the top down then line.

    I wouldn’t mess with the braces. They are beefy but in odd places. The bridge area is essentially unbraced. Either completely rebrace it in a different scheme, or leave well-enough alone (which is what I’d do). Crude as they are, these little beasts sound pretty good. Instruments with polished insides tend to sound shrill and have colliding superficial overtones, which is the tendency of birch-topped mandolins and guitars anyway. The rough surfaces offer some welcome dampening.
    .
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  7. #7
    Mando-Accumulator Jim Garber's Avatar
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    Thanks, Paul, for the advice. I think that minimal intervention makes sense and I will heed your crack repair advice as well.

    Jim
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