Mandolin bridge question

[F Murtz]

I have posted this question on MIMF but got no answers so I thought I would try a mandolin specific forum.
I have made this mandolin (minus broken bridge)

http://imgur.com/a/PkYPr
My commercially made bridge collapsed so I have decided to make one but this poses a question about the compensated bit,the one I had pair forward pair back pair forward pair back but then I found different type with fret metal inlaid where they are stepped progressively in four slots.
These are the two sorts but they seem to be at odds, can someone explain the difference and which is best?

http://imgur.com/a/G8aZb

Or could I make one with two grooves and lay out fret wire two forward two back two forward two back like this bad drawing?
http://imgur.com/a/xxfaM
Or any other thoughts or ways of doing it?

[pops1]

I would not make either of those, look at some mandolins here and look at the bridge. Looking at the classifieds may give you a good enough look. If not look to Cumberland acoustics for bridge that will hold up. I would use ebony and forget about the slots and fret wire.

[multidon]

Agree with pops 100 percent. Buy a quality ebony bridge, not import junk that may use substandard materials.

Your original compensation pattern was correct, you can move those metal inserts on your proposed bridge to any pattern you choose. But it is not a high quality bridge. If you made your own version using fret wire I don't know how you would be able to properly slot it.

[Willie Poole]

If your mandolin is not an arched top and you order a commercial bridge make sure you ask for one that is for a flat top mandolin...I couldn`t tell from the photo if it was flat or arched...

Willie

[F Murtz]

It was a commercial ebony bridge similar to the second one of the pictures, that broke,that is why I was contemplating the sort that had fret metal and looked more solid I should have no trouble making the fret slots as I made the fret board on my mandolin.
Also it is arched.
I was looking for a bit of info on why the ebony one is forward back forward back and the other was incremental and if I made such a thing would I make it with two slots and arrange it like the ebony one or four slots and arrange like the other?
If I make it I would use the adjustable ebony base from the broken one

I may end up buying another but I would like making one as it is quicker (and I like making things )

[Bill Snyder]

I think any of the ones posted using "fret metal" would be too heavy and would kill any hopes of getting the best tone from your instrument.

[pops1]

Go ahead and make one, but make one like the one that broke. They do break from time to time, maybe the bridge was too tall and the saddle to short. Maybe it took a hit, maybe it had a flaw in the wood. There are thousands upon thousands of these bridges out there working fine. If you are not sure where to make the "forward and back" as you say, start with a square front and intonate each string. When that is done you can take material off the back to make the individual saddles as thick or thin as you want and you have made your own. It should work fine. Sometimes I buy them, sometimes I make them. I have one started now, the last one I bought as I had more to do and didn't have time to make one. Have fun.

[dhergert]

I'm curious about why the bridge broke... It would seem having that answer might be important before trying to either make or buy another one.

Can you describe the way the bridge broke?

-- Don

[F Murtz]

the mandolin was just sitting on a seat and snapped,I heard a ping and that was it.
http://imgur.com/a/i47xR

[Willie Poole]

I have heard of people breaking them because they push down on the saddle thinking that will help seat the bridge flush with the top, one fellow told me he did that because he thought he heard a slight buzz and figured the bridge wasn`t seated properly...

[Barry Wilson]

The one on my The Loar broke. It was Rosewood I believe. I put a Cumberland on. There was a grain and it split right along that. I temp fixed it until the Cumberland arrived.

[Folkmusician.com]

the mandolin was just sitting on a seat and snapped,I heard a ping and that was it.

I can't quite make it out, but the wood grain doesn't look the greatest, and the saddle might not be tall enough. You have to be careful cutting saddles to lower the action. If the action needs to go down, it is usually better to start with the foot first. There is the option of using thinner thumbwheels as well.

[pops1]

I agree with Robert, the wood doesn't look the best, and I prefer to thin the foot rather than the saddle first.

[dhergert]

the mandolin was just sitting on a seat and snapped,I heard a ping and that was it.
http://imgur.com/a/i47xR

Hmmm, interesting break...

As others have mentioned, ebony would probably be the best material. You've mentioned this one is ebony, but the break area almost looks like rosewood; perhaps there was just a weakness as has been suggested.

Also, looking at the picture, the thumbwheel posts look really thick. I have to wonder if that didn't weaken the saddle in the area where the break occurred.

These are things you might want to consider as you either build or purchase a new bridge.

I would agree with others here that this style of bridge is probably better for the tone of your instrument than the one with fret wire. But that's just another choice to make. There's nothing that says you can't try both.

Good luck with this!

-- Don

[F Murtz]

I whipped this one out of a bit of fence post Dont know if it works till I get an expert,it may end up permanent,I can not play anything except maybe when the saints come marchin in or swanee river on a mouth organ

http://imgur.com/a/7VcPE

[dhergert]

Excellent. How does it sound?

-- Don

[pit lenz]

F Mutrz,
The bridge pictured in your first post seems to be the bridge of a Höfner 500/1 "Beatles Bass".
I have one, the design works essentially well, you might still change fretwire positions as you change string gauges if needed.
But consider, that with keeping your options with that design, you add a fair amount of mass, compared to traditional bridge designs. While this may not be a great issue with a bass (heavier physics involved), the much more delicate string vibration of a mandolin may be dampened and affected in a not desirable way.
Also, though hard materials like bone or ebony are commonly used as bridge surface for acoustic instruments, you don't come across any kind of metal very often: still worth a try, but maybe for a reason?...
Again, the Höfner works very well, but despite it's looks, it still is an electric axe.

[Polecat]

Hi F Murtz,
Your new bridge looks fine to me. I'm a little late with this, but if you want to experiment with bridges, this website is very helpful: https://www.murphymethod.com/index.c...&contentId=122

Polecat

[Folkmusician.com]

The new bridge looks cool! Not bad for a fence post!

I would suggest redoing the string spacing though (proportional spacing). On the nut as well. You should be able to get it pretty close by eye, Sometimes measuring doesn't work out so well with string spacing (even when you have a proportional ruler).

[F Murtz]

I made this electronic violin with the same fence post, I do not know what wood it is, some sort of Australian red hardwood (but not the fret board and chin rest ,it was commercially made ebony from ebay)

http://imgur.com/a/8QZ60

[pops1]

Nice job, we don't have those nice fence posts here, Australia is too far to go to get one. Is it a light weight or heavier weight wood?

[F Murtz]

It is heavy, It was a post that I replaced with treated pine because it had rotted at the bottom that was in the ground and I have been making things from it since