$500 - $800 price range. What is good? What to avoid?

[Kennedyland]

I doubt this is a new question, however, I'm somewhat new to this and need some knowledge. I'm in Portland, Oregon, and as delightful as it is out here, mandolins over $500 are more of a dream than a reality. It looks like I'll probably have to order a good mandolin from a distant store. I'm not looking into spending thousands of dollars, more in the $500 - $800 range. I'm also willing to order something, test it,and simply send it back if I don't like it, but I'd rather avoid that hassle if possible. Therefore, I'm looking for suggestions. I want an A - shape, F-hole mandolin. I've looked at the Kentucky -KM 500 and the 505. At one time I had an Eastman 505 but, much to my own surprise, I didn't like it. So, what would you recommend? Also, what would you suggest I avoid? Thanks.

[Folkmusician.com]

Hi Kennedy,

I was just in Portland for Pedalpalooza. Luckily I didn't get talked into the nekkid ride.

Your budget is more than enough for a nice A -style. It sounds like you have done some home work, but apparently didn't care for one of my top recommendations!

If you could tell us what you didn't like about the MD505 it would be very helpful in recommending other models.
The KM-505 would be a good choice, The Loar LM-400 is another. These and the Eastman's are the stand outs in this price range. Most other options will not stack up, unless you make a big jump up in price.

[Kennedyland]

Well, regarding the Eastman 505, it could have been the specific instrument, but the action was poor. Now granted, I didn't have it very long, and at the time I didn't realize that fingering a mandolin is different than fingering a guitar (each finger is more or less responsible for two frets, not simply one), and with my fingers all bunched up using guitar fingering, it was difficult to play. Also, and I don't know if this is my imagination, the fretboard seemed overly narrow. At the moment I'm playing an inexpensive Ibanez ($150), and I'm not having any trouble with the fretboard.

[Folkmusician.com]

ok, that helps...

Action is 100% based on the setup, so this isn't really brand/model specific.

There will be some differences in neck shape, nut width, fret size and radius vs flat. All of these will change the feel, but it is typically more subtle that you would think. After playing any neck for an hour or so, most players will adjust.

Almost all of the mandolins will be within 1/16" of each other as far as nut width. It is normally more about the string spacing than the nut when it comes to feeling cramped.

Correct! A mandolin is much harder to fret than a guitar. This is predominately due to the pair of strings you are fretting.

Your Ibanez there should have a standard nut width or even a bit narrower than some.

The Kentuckys are great instruments, but I would still keep Eastman on the list as well. Just based on playability, there will not be huge differences between them if the setups are the same.

[gtani7]

Well, regarding the Eastman 505, it could have been the specific instrument, but the action was poor. Now granted, I didn't have it very long, and at the time I didn't realize that fingering a mandolin is different than fingering a guitar (each finger is more or less responsible for two frets, not simply one), and with my fingers all bunched up using guitar fingering, it was difficult to play. Also, and I don't know if this is my imagination, the fretboard seemed overly narrow. At the moment I'm playing an inexpensive Ibanez ($150), and I'm not having any trouble with the fretboard.

I have a couple Eastmans and a Kentucky. I think all of the models discussed here are great value but have something that's not totally optimal. The small frets on the Eastman and Kentucky, and the creaky tuners on the Eastmans (Maybe they addressed this, mine are both older, pre-2011). I think you should try to play a bunch of these, to get an idea of neck shape/depth, nut width, fingerboard radius, fret size etc you like.

Fret size is a big factor, if your Ibanez has 80/50's, that might explain the comment. Seattle has a bunch of places that sell Eastmans, most of them minimally to not fully setup, and a few The Loar dealers (GC, so absolutely no setup). No Kentucky AFAIK.

There's also Morris mandolins, way east of you, but in Oregon. there are other builders in your state, (Breedlove doesn't build in OR anymore) http://4allmusic.com/selection-luthi...ers-usa#oregon

[almeriastrings]

The KM-505's are normally a really nice instrument. They sound much more 'expensive' than they actually are, by a long way, and are nicely built and finished too. You are going to need proper setup on any mandolin.

[Roger Moss]

Whatever you get it sounds like the setup will be the issue for you. I suggest the site sponsors would be the the way to go since most offer great setup on their instruments.

[CES]

Rarely, KM 900s pop up used at the top end of your price range, and should be considered as well, though some patience (which I tend to lack), would be involved...

[Northwest Steve]

Rarely, KM 900s pop up used at the top end of your price range, and should be considered as well, though some patience (which I tend to lack), would be involved...

If he thought the neck was to small on an Eastman 505 he would not like the 900 any better. for him the 950 would be a much better option.

Check out Howard (Sonny) Morris mandolins, made in Oregon

[pheffernan]

Rarely, KM 900s pop up used at the top end of your price range, and should be considered as well, though some patience (which I tend to lack), would be involved...

There's an upgraded KM900 with a varnish finish just above budget languishing in the classifieds:

http://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/99975#99975

If he thought the neck was to small on an Eastman 505 he would not like the 900 any better. for him the 950 would be a much better option.
Check out Howard (Sonny) Morris mandolins, made in Oregon

Other domestic builders occasionally found in this price range include Flatiron (Festival A), Rigel (A Natural), and Silverangel (Econo).

[atbuckner21]

Howard "Sonny" Morris builds beautiful mandolins that are setup perfect straight from his shop. You could get a new A5 just above your price range, or a used one inside of it. May even be something in the classifieds now

[Mike Scott]

Hi Kennedyland. Welcome to the best site for all things mandolin. I have a Morris flat top that I purchased from Sonny a few months ago. It has really good tone ( better than my carved top Kentucky 272). It plays very easy due in part to the neck being attached at the 12th fret vs the 14th on your old Eastman). The superb set up done by Sonny also contributes to the playability. Also noted is that Dusty Strings has a bunch of Eastmen you could try out if you are up for a 3 hour drive each way. They usually have a Kentucky 505, but didn't notice any on the website. You can also rent from them, in case you weren't sure. They generally do a good set up too. I hope this helps out some. Very good advice above too. Good luck with your search!

[Steve Ostrander]

+1 for the km900. I've never played a km950 but if they are like the km900 I'm sure I would like it. Nothing wrong with the km505-- I owned one for a while. But the km900 is better.

I find that mandolins are easier to play than guitar. Not so much stretching except for that G chop chord. Maybe it's because I play 90% mandolin now, but when I pick up a guitar the FB seems huge.

[acousticphd]

Your senses told you correctly - the Eastman fingerboards are especially narrow. They have always been listed at "nominally" 1-3/32" nutwidth, but I think in fact they closer to 1-1/16". And to my ears, most Eastmans sound thin.

The only better KM model I have first-hand experience with is the KM-505, which I thought is very good for the price - and better sounding than any of the many Eastmans I ever sampled. A nice feature of the Kentucky 505, and maybe most/all of their higher models, is that they have 1-3/16" nuts, which really improves comfort for some folks, incl. me. The 900 series look very nice (except for the Florida FB extensions). Be sure to pay attention to neck and fingerboard specs (width and radiused vs. flat) of the ones you're considering

It is prudent to pick something that you have the option to return if you don't like. But realize that you will save enough by buying a good pre-owned mandolin that you could easily shoot for something in the $1K list category, with patience. The best place to do that might be here, from the classifieds, where nearly everyone offers a short trial period.

I would say to avoid: Loar, Michael Kelly

Also possibly consider: J Bovier high-end models, used Howard Morris A5

[fscotte]

A mandolin will feel easier to play if it is responsive. You can have the greatest of setups, but if the thing doesn't dance off your fingers then it will feel overly difficult to play.

[F-2 Dave]

The KM-900 in the classifieds looks really nice.

[Kennedyland]

Thanks everyone. I sat in my music room, wondering where I was going to get the money for a good mandolin. Of course, the answer was right in front of me - and to my left and my right. A few thing had been sitting in that room that I have't touched in quite a while. So, in a fit of carpe diem, I took my American Fender Stratocaster (accepting the reality that I probably won't be a rock star), the hardshell case for the Strat, my old Marshall amp, two gig bags, a Bristol guitar, and my Ibanez mandolin and hardshell case, over to Trade Up Music here in Portland. I put all that on the counter, and traded it for a used (2012) Kentucky KM 620. The dang thing seems to come alive in my hands. I thought I wanted an A mandolin, but that sweet little F mandolin seemed to be singing to me from its hook on the wall. I'm having a great time. Thanks again for all your ideas and suggestions, this is a good online community.

[LadysSolo]

Congratulations! Enjoy!

[Folkmusician.com]

Congrats on the new mandolin!

the Eastman fingerboards are especially narrow. They have always been listed at "nominally" 1-3/32" nutwidth, but I think in fact they closer to 1-1/16"

It had been a while since I took any measurements... this was real quick and I just grabbed the first thing off the shelf:

Here we have an Eastman MD315 and a Kentucky KM-805. Note that there is a bit of fisheye happening with the lens and that the eastman nut tappers quite a bit, where the Kentucky nut comes almost straight up from the sides:






Verdict: The two nuts are of identical width. Both are just a hair under 1-1/8".

[multidon]

Kennedyland, I am happy for you that you found a mandolin that makes you happy. But there are parts of your story that do not make sense. I am surprised Robert did not clue in on it, I know he is knowledgable about the Kentucky line. First of all, the KM 620 was discontinued in 2009, there can be no such thing as a 2012 version. So either the model number is wrong, or the year.

Believe me it brings me no pleasure to rain on anyone's parade, but the KM 620 was considered Kentucky's entry level F and was all laminate. Because of that, probably more like a sideways move from your Ibanez than a move up. But since we established that combination is impossible, and that either the year or the model has to be incorrect, maybe you actually have one of the carved models from the 600 series- KM 600, 630, 650, or 675. That would be better.

I usually see KM 620 models sell used for 350-400 dollars. Sounds like the equipment you traded in is worth considerably more than that, especially the Strat. I would expect that to be around 600 wholesale and 800-900 retail in excellent condition.

I wanted to give you the straight story, painful though it is, to maybe throw you a safety line in case you get a case of trader's remorse tomorrow. The fact that your mandolin was misrepresented (very easy to prove there is no such thing as a 2012 KM 620) might give you the leverage to back out if you choose to do so.

[Kennedyland]

It's a KM-630.

[multidon]

Ah so. Deal makes much more sense now. HUGE difference between the KM 630 and the the 620. You have solid carved spruce top and solid carved flamed maple back on that. The 630 is well regarded here. They were made to sell for about 900 originally I think, without case. Lots of folks very happy with that model. Funny how one little number makes all that difference. Check out the specs on the 620 and you will see why I was concerned for you. It was a well intentioned but ill advised model designed to make F styles more "affordable" Saga has mostly abandoned laminate construction in favor of solid carved. They might still make the KM 140 with laminate body and solid top, but I'm not sure.

The 600 series can be confusing to those not familiar with it. They made the 600, 620, 630, 650, and 675 at various times, and I may be forgetting some. The only 600 series they make now is the KM 675 AFAIK.

Enjoy your new Kentucky! Sounds like you have a good one.

[Roger Moss]

AFAIK the KM 140 is the only Kentucky left with laminate construction. Saga still makes a couple of low end Rovers with laminate but that's another conversation.

[Kennedyland]

Thanks, Don. I appreciate the concern and caution, and sorry for the typo (620 rather than the actual 630). I also appreciate your second message and reinforcement. I feel good about what I got. Now it's down to the task of practice, practice, practice.

[gtani7]

Well con-graaa-tulations! Some starter tips

- look under the bridge feet for sharp edges. The KM-505 i bought used had really gouged up finish from the feet

- how are the (Gotoh) tuners. This is the first thing i'm going to swap out on mine.

- put a dental mirror in and look at the braces and top/tail blocks (I've never done this, but the uber-tech at Dusty strings does, I think he's looking for gaps)

- Books: the 2 by Don Julin and the 3 books in 1 by Greg Horne/Wayne Fugate are great starting points. For serious woodshedding, exercise books by Todd Collins, Mike Marshall and the white jazz book by Eschlimann and Rubner-Petersen's Bluegrass book. Here's the motherlode of books: http://www.elderly.com/books/fiddle-...ndolin-methods