I just got a Kentucky KM-150. I'm reading up on how to fit it but how can I make sure to know front from back?
I just got a Kentucky KM-150. I'm reading up on how to fit it but how can I make sure to know front from back?
Look at post #16 in this thread. Your bridge top should look like the top image in that post with the fretboard oriented above that image.
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
The easy answer is that the small grooves fit the E strings and the largest grooves fit the G strings.
David Hopkins
2001 Gibson F-5L mandolin
Breedlove Legacy FF mandolin; Breedlove Quartz FF mandolin
Gibson F-4 mandolin (1916); Blevins f-style Octave mandolin, 2018
McCormick Oval Sound Hole "Reinhardt" Mandolin
McCormick Solid Body F-Style Electric Mandolin; Slingerland Songster Guitar (c. 1939)
The older I get, the less tolerant I am of political correctness, incompetence and stupidity.
Unless somebody already put it on backwards.
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
It has no grooves which is my next question (this is a replacement bridge from Stewmac). I've got it pretty close to fitting now. Is there some tool that I can get at a local hardware store that would work good enough to notch one bridge (I won't be doing more)?
One obvious way to get it right is the A strings are the ones that have largest shift backwards toward the tailpiece for intonation. Looking at the top oh the bridge rotate it till this large setback is in the #2(A)position. The A string set is second set up from the bottom strings when your holding the mandolin in playing position. Unless your a south paw.
"A sudden clash of thunder, the mind doors burst open, and lo, there sits old man Buddha-nature in all his homeliness."
CHAO-PIEN
Anyone have an answer to my question regarding what is the best tool to use to make the string notches? Mine is unnotched.
Check out rob meldrums book. You email him and he sends you a copy. I think you could use a nut file and rob shows you how to make one from a feeler gauge.
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Fender Blues Jr Tweed; Fender Greta;
Take a look at these threads.
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
A set of spark plug gauges that you have notched is the cheapest way to go.
Bill
IM(NS)HO
.. /\ ..
.. \/ .. (keyboard drawing of a small file - you can buy a set of these tiny files for less than 5 bucks. (jewellers files)
a tiny file shaped like this will do - non-wounds plain strings need little more than a scratch - wound strings need more,
grooves = about 1/2 the diameter of the string
you don't need deep grooves
(is there a full moon happening right now?)
= The Loar, LM700VS c.2013 = "The Brat"
= G. Puglisi, "Roma" c.1907 = "Patentato" - rare archBack, canted top, oval
= Harmony, Monterrey c.1969 = collapsed ply - parts, testing, training, firewood.
"The intellect is a boring load of crawp. Aye. Next wee chune".
want high tek info?
go to www.frets.com
everything about everything is there in detail w pix.
= The Loar, LM700VS c.2013 = "The Brat"
= G. Puglisi, "Roma" c.1907 = "Patentato" - rare archBack, canted top, oval
= Harmony, Monterrey c.1969 = collapsed ply - parts, testing, training, firewood.
"The intellect is a boring load of crawp. Aye. Next wee chune".
It's a good question, but not necessarily an obvious answer, because archtop mandolin saddle compensation is not universal. From previous discussions, I don't come away with the idea that there is consistent opinion as to which orientation is "correct" on a stock, unslotted saddle. You commonly see 2 or 3 slightly different compensation patterns. For ex, some are symmetrical, or nearly so (like the diagram in the thread Mike E. mentions above), with the G/A positions equally back, and D/E positions equally forward ; others have the G saddle farthest back; others have the A saddle farthest back, etc.
I haven't tried to diagram the differences, but if you look at photos of various bridges, you can see this is the case, and the various designs will give slightly different results on different mandolins!
I have had several bridges that seem to have too much compensation to one or more saddles, so my opinion is that a symmetrically notched pattern (ex. 2) is best, because you can file in a little more saddle compensation by hand if need be.
For slotting, you can probably do ok with a triangular or needle file(s), smoothing the slots into a more rounded profile by carefully rocking the file, or smoothing with folded sandpaper. But a selection of several nut/saddle files is a good investment, maybe more so for nut work. I use mine regularly.
One thing to mention is that the OP's fitting questions here pertain to the *saddle* orientation, while fitting the bridge foot is a separate task. The saddle can be flipped around - and sometimes will do better if it is flipped around from the original/"normal" orientation). Many people use wider string spacing, and of course deeper slots for the G and D strings, which establishes a "correct" saddle direction once slotted, but you can sand old notches out and reslot if you like.
If I have a new, unslotted bridge, I first choose the "best/most correct" saddle orientation, and I test the fit of bridge foot to the the top in both orientations. Once I decide which way to fit, or on any fitted bridge I might need to remove, I will mark the bridge foot with a pencil (eg, B and T for bass and treble sides) to make it easier to keep track if I remove the bridge at some point, and I may do the the same with the saddle, if it is not obvious.
Last edited by acousticphd; Jul-30-2015 at 12:08pm. Reason: corrections
Jeff Rohrbough
"Listen louder, play softer"
If you have never notched a bridge saddle, it should be mentioned that it is very easy to overdue it and go too wide or too deep, then you will hear buzzing. This is very careful work, not something that requires a lot of filing. MOST normal shop files are way too big for this job. For the smaller strings, you can take a sharp pocket knife blade and gently press it into the wood--you don't need much of a notch or slot.
Get a set of welding tip files, about $5.00. Should be able to get them at a large hardware store. The set contains many different sizes.
I fitted a CA bridge to my first 'good' mandolin. It was a 'flat top' bridge,so i had to put a radius on it to suit the mandolin = slots all gone !. After shaping the saddle top,i used a scalpel to make simple, shallow cuts in the top,sloping down slightly towards the tailpiece. All i did was to make the cuts for the G & D strings slightly deeper,the strings themselves did the rest over time. The G & D string slots started off as very shallow 'Vee' slots,but soon rounded off,
Ivan
Weber F-5 'Fern'.
Lebeda F-5 "Special".
Stelling Bellflower BANJO
Tokai - 'Tele-alike'.
Ellis DeLuxe "A" style.
A plus one for the welding tip cleaners, I got mine at Lowes for under 6 bucks and they have all the sizes you need to make slots in bridge saddles and nuts....
I am curious as to haw cutting the slots too deep will make the strings buzz, I am open for all suggestions so I can expand my learning curve....
Willie
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