Do you provide recommendation for string gauge to buyers?

[fscotte]

More specifically, do you build with a particular gauge in mind, and then strongly suggest to use that gauge, and provide that in the advertisement before the sale?

The reason I ask is that I build relatively light, with lots of flex to both plates. Up to this point I have been using D'addario J75's which is just something I carried over from my Gibson A5L, which needs heavier gauge. But I found out very recently that my build(s) sound better using a lighter gauge such as 38, 26, 15, 11. To the point that I would strongly suggest the potential buyer to use that gauge.

[Pete Jenner]

Those gauges are nearly the same as J74s, the most ubiquitous mandolin string set as far as I know. Only the Gs differ.

[JeffD]

My understanding is that Lou Stiver builds to the J75s. J75 sure sounds good on them.

[fscotte]

Those gauges are nearly the same as J74s, the most ubiquitous mandolin string set as far as I know. Only the Gs differ.

To me they are radically different being that I thought J75's were the only gauge people used. Until a fella brought over his F5L a few days ago and I wondered why it felt so easy on the fingers. He said they were J74's.

At least on this particular build the less tension on the bridge really opens up the sustain and tone. So much that if someone didn't use light gauge strings it would hinder the tone. So I assume I must provide a disclaimer...

[Pete Jenner]

74s are 11, 15, 26 and 40.

[fscotte]

There must be a significant difference in the G string tension, enough to affect the overall tone. I can hear a difference in the 15's as well. Why I have been using heavy for so long I do not know. Even my Martin wants lights, and mediums kill the sustain.

[MysTiK PiKn]

This is interesting thread.
While working on my TLoar, I was raising and lowering unknown "?original?" strings - many times. Broke none.
When almost finished, I installed new J74's. Seemed like same feel as originals.
Suddenly I was breaking E strings repeatedly. Like 4 in a week.

Someone suggested try LightGuage - and a relationship to Scale Length was also suggested. But I have not yet tried Lights.
Too tight at the nut was also suggested - esp. if the J74's were thicker than originals. (?)

Is scale length part of the game in this discussion? And wouldn't that affect tension?
Also - sustain - is that how long a string rings? or is it how long a mando keeps a note sounding - while playing music. Or, alternatively, is sustain in the string or in the instrument? And how much is practical/useable in an acoustic instrument?

My longterm view on strings is apparently being challenged - I think there's more to this.

[Marty Jacobson]

Absolutely, I build instruments with different break angles and plate compliance depending on the style of music and type of strings. They can make a big difference.

In the warranty, I always specify a maximum string guage, which if exceeded voids the warranty. Usually this is J75's, or Thomastik Mittels for my classical instruments. Kind of a CYA thing, but also good information for the customer to know.

[Phil Goodson]

I applaud you guys for your commitment to excellence in building and matching strings and such.

But you know that of the next three guys who play your instrument, one will love it, one will hate it, and one will want the kind of strings that he thinks Chris Thile uses.

[Marty Jacobson]

Yes, that's pretty much how it is. Once it's in the owner's hands, all bets are off. If the change makes the instrument suit the owner better, then it's a good change. At least, as long as there are not excessive forces put on the instrument which would harm its longevity.

[MysTiK PiKn]

It's not easy getting mando strings in my neck of the woods. I was in a store couple days ago, and bought the only thing they had = Ernie Ball Light Guage. I really wanted D'Add Lights

They are more like 'extra lights' looking at the gauge numbers:

9 = 13 = 22 = 34

But the pack says "Light Gauge". It also says "Custom Gauge" on the pack.

They might be good for my recently acquired antique Puglisi; but I wonder what the TLoar700 would do with them. Maybe I could play Hendrix chunes and bend'em. Yeh, really. Foxy Lady on mandolin? I don't think so!

I'm curious - but it's good to know that this gauge exists, at least.

[fscotte]

The world is filled with Loar clones that need heavier gauge strings. I brought this up because the one thing I hear people say, is that the mandolin (typical F5 store bought clone) is too hard to play because the strings hurt their fingers. What I don't see are sufficient amounts of f-hole mandolins that are built with light to very light gauges in mind. Most Loar copies won't respond well to these gauges. So it's an avenue that I may travel.

[Dick Hutchings]

You don't think that might just be poor setup on store bought clones? Another thing I find is people that are buying these cheaper mandolins and complaining about strings hurting their fingers, aren't really playing them often enough to build up any callouses.

[fscotte]

Could be setup, but most of the time it's just heavier strings with a heavier attack. I dunno, just looking for a niche as others have done.

[MysTiK PiKn]

Trying HEAVY gauge is very tempting. Methinks the tops on most clonees are a lot heavier than yours esp. in the recurve area - I notice on mine the recurve area is not very visible to the eye..
OTOH - I do know that MEDIUM gauge (J74's) do move the top - my tailpiece was too close to the top before I aligned it w the bridge height - I was getting these weird clicking noises when I played loudly. Raising the TP to align fixed the problem - but initially it was likely close to a 1/32" off the top (did not measure it). I was pleased to learn that the top actually moves in playing.
The only thing w heavy gauge is fear of damage, and do I really want to run that test - well, maybe.

I was thinking it would be an easy thing to notate on the label a specific string recommendation, or requirement, complete w a warranty warning, if so desired. That might help future survival of the instrument, through successive future owners. Just a thought.

[Fretbear]

It matters. I use heavy gauge strings on some of my guitars and tune them down as low as 3 half steps, if they were lighter it would just not work. I use 11.5" E's on my mandolin, which are perfect but have tried them on others when setting them up but they can be just too heavy and choke the sound out on some other mandolins. The A string tuning problems on some mandolins can often be traced to a too light A string.