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Thread: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

  1. #51
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Ivan - I ordered some packets of MD DR11s to try them out. I usually put on D/Addario J74s. I will be interested what they do tonewise to the Pava when I replace the current strings, which I presume are GHS A270s.
    Nic Gellie

  2. #52
    Middle-Aged Old-Timer Tobin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Gellie View Post
    Ivan - I ordered some packets of MD DR11s to try them out. I usually put on D/Addario J74s. I will be interested what they do tonewise to the Pava when I replace the current strings, which I presume are GHS A270s.
    If you're going to experiment with strings, I have to recommend Siminoff's "Straight Up Strings". I liked their tone on my Ellis even better than the DR MD-11s. And I did think they were more balanced, which was Roger Siminoff's intent with this set. Though he uses lighter G and D courses, the A and E courses are heavier than the "standard" mandolin gauges.

    For reference:

    GHS A270s use 11-16-26-40

    DR MD11s use 11-16-26-40

    Siminoff SUSs use 11.5-16-24-39

    With Siminoff's heavier E string and lighter G and D strings than the GHS or DR strings, it really helped balance things out. I've heard people say that Ellis is a "bassy" mandolin anyway, so perhaps this set brought out more of the higher end in relation. I dunno; I didn't particularly overanalyze it. All I know is that I liked them better than the MD11s (which I still liked very much). Whether they'll have the same effect on a Pava, I couldn't say. But being from the same family of instruments, I'd think it's worth a shot.

  3. #53
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Tobin,

    That is a really good idea and I like the way you have approached the issue of strings. Are n't Mr Siminoff's strings a bit dear though? I will check them out too. What about the good ol J74s?
    Nic Gellie

  4. #54
    My Florida is scooped pheffernan's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Quote Originally Posted by Tobin View Post
    For reference:

    GHS A270s use 11-16-26-40

    DR MD11s use 11-16-26-40

    Siminoff SUSs use 11.5-16-24-39

    With Siminoff's heavier E string and lighter G and D strings than the GHS or DR strings, it really helped balance things out.
    The Straight Up strings appear closer to the GHS A260 Bobby Osborne strings (11-16-24-38), also noted for their evenness of tone.
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  6. #55

    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    The D'Addario EXP74CM are 11.5, 16, 26, 40. They are the newer set that Chris Thiele hade them set up. I have them on my Kentucky 1050 and they are nice.

  7. #56
    Middle-Aged Old-Timer Tobin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Quote Originally Posted by Northwest Steve View Post
    The D'Addario EXP74CM are 11.5, 16, 26, 40. They are the newer set that Chris Thiele hade them set up. I have them on my Kentucky 1050 and they are nice.
    Yep, those are worth mentioning and trying too. That's what I'll be using for the next few months at least, as I go through all the sets that I enthusiastically purchased. The gauges are just what I like, and the coating makes playability a breeze. They actually last longer under my fingers before they rust out.

    The only thing I don't like as much about these is the tone of the coated strings. They just don't have the punch for chop chords that some of the other uncoated brands have.

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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Thanks Nick, Im glad you found a mandolin that speaks to you. Enjoy, have a great day. Back to picking for me!
    Take care Nick
    Jason

  9. #58
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Mandojason,

    I have not stopped picking the last few days. I have been trying some new things like hammer ons, pull offs, slides, all combined together. I have really appreciated the advice I have got in the last two weeks regarding mandolin, strings, etc. That is what the cafe is here for - to help people out in their choices. Ultimately, we have to make the choice whether we both this or that mandolin, or keep what we have got. i have n't felt so good about a mandolin in ages. In fact when I put my trio together at the moment, the Pava, Arches FT-O which I have refinished, and the Black A2Z, I am blessed with some very good mandolins at affordable prices.
    Nic Gellie

  10. #59
    Registered User doc holiday's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Congratulations.... Another killer mandolin from Austin!

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  12. #60
    Registered User Ivan Kelsall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Well,the 2 mandolins i own that sound most alike are the Weber & the Ellis.Both are very 'open' & clear sounding - but,the Weber is already a bit too bright maybe.The reason i went for DR MD11's on it,was for the sheer 'punch' that they have.J74's never sounded anywhere near as good. But (again),as DR themselves say,their strings were made to sound brighter than most.I think that's why they continue to sound so good for much longer than other strings. On my Weber,as much as i love the drive that the DR's give it,until they calm down,it is pretty bright sounding,but not 'glaringly' so. To that end,i just ordered 2 sets of GHS A270's for it. I'm hoping that the thicker "A" strings will deliver some added kick to it,while keeping the brightness under control. I know without trying them yet,that the A270's will sound good. As i said,they are the sweetest toned & most well balanced set of strings i've tried yet - depite my love for the DR's which will remain on my Lebeda & Ellis,neither of which suffer from any 'overbrightness'.
    With ref.to another thread which i started re. 'Pick thickness' - i've been using Dunlop 'Primetone' 1.3mm thick teardrop shaped picks for over 8 months.Yesterday,i received a 3-pack of 1.5mm ones of the same shape,& against all logic,despite there being no obvious difference in pick 'stiffness',they are much louder than the 1.3mm ones. So,an additional factor in the 'loudness' stakes, Yesterday,using the 1.5mm picks,my Lebeda,which i bought them for,sounded so terrific that i was forced to play it for close to 5 hours. I really was amazed at what an extra 0.2mm thickness can do,
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  13. #61
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Well i normally use a Wegen 1.5 mm pick or a Dawg pick I like the pick shap of each of them. I am happy to try out a Dunlop Primetone 1.5 mm pick. I have n't tried a Bluechip Pick yet. The price scares me off a bit.

    BTW Northfield Model M owners we would love to hear strings and picks you use to enhance your playing experience.
    Nic Gellie

  14. #62
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Well i normally use a Wegen 1.5 mm pick or a Dawg pick I like the pick shap of each of them. I am happy to try out a Dunlop Primetone 1.5 mm pick. I have n't tried a Bluechip Pick yet. The price scares me off a bit.

    BTW Northfield Model M owners we would love to hear strings and picks you use to enhance your playing experience.
    Nic Gellie

  15. #63
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Just that I would show the alabaster colour and figure on the side of the headstock. Outstanding grain!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sorry about the double post.
    Nic Gellie

  16. #64
    Registered User Ivan Kelsall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Nick - From my own experience & from what other folk have mentioned on here,the Primetones do deliver some additional volume. I went from 1.4mm Wegen Bluegrass picks,to 1.3mm Primetones which were much louder. The 1.5mm Primetones have simply added some extra power without being 'brash' or hard. I tried them out on my Weber & Ellis yesterday & got the added volume without any loss of tone. I think that's as far as i need to go regarding picks at the moment,
    Ivan
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  17. #65
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Ivan, I got some Dunlop Primetop 1.5 mm picks ordered last weekend. They arrived today. I am impressed at the quality and improvement in tone. I am not saying they are a Blue Chip but for $10AUD for three picks, plus postage they on par if not better than the Wegen picks. MD DR11s will be arriving later in the week to try out on the Pava.
    Nic Gellie

  18. #66
    Registered User Ivan Kelsall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Nick - I've tried 2 Blue Chip picks belonging to a friend of mine on my mandolins. OK,they were of a different shape,but not too far removed from my Primetones & for me,there was no difference other than the Primetones sounded a tad brighter. In the UK,a BC pick cost around £34 UK ($53 US / $67 AUS) = no way mate !!. That's way too much to be disappointed (maybe). I love the 1.5mm Primetone / DR strings combo.,so why go any further,
    Ivan
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  20. #67
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Well I got 3 1.5 mm Dunlop Primetone picks for less than a third of the price of 1 bluechip pick ($21/$67AUD). I am satisfied too with the results I am getting with the Primteone picks. Thanks Ivan for the idea.
    Nic Gellie

  21. #68
    Registered User Nick Gellie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Ivan - i have put some MD DR11s on my Pava and they really brighten up the sound and volume with little detraction on the tone. Thanks for the tip!
    Nic Gellie

  22. #69
    Registered User Ivan Kelsall's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Hi Nick - I'm pleased that you like the DR's. I was playing my Ellis "A" style yesterday & those DR's give it a real boost,& as you say,without any loss of tone. If you keep those DR's on for a while = several months & yes,they will last a long time,the brightness will disappear,but the 'punch'' will remain & the strings become beautifully balanced & rounded in tone. I had a set on my Weber for 8 months & they sounded superb.I only removed them because they'd gone black behind the bridge where my hand touches them. I must admit that at that point in time,the Weber had never sounded so good. Although the GHS A270's have removed the 'brightness' on the Weber,they're not in the same league as those 8 month old DR's,
    Ivan
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    Lebeda F-5 "Special".
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    Tokai - 'Tele-alike'.
    Ellis DeLuxe "A" style.

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  24. #70
    Registered User almeriastrings's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    8 months on a set of strings... wow... I get about 3 weeks if I am lucky on a typical uncoated set and maybe 6 weeks if I use EXPs. The DR 11's lasted about a month.
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  26. #71

    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Quote Originally Posted by Ivan Kelsall View Post
    I had a set on my Weber for 8 months ......
    Wow... After about 3 or 4 weeks, I can't get strings to intonate properly... Drives me crazy. I'm jealous that you can get strings to last that long.

  27. #72
    Middle-Aged Old-Timer Tobin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Quote Originally Posted by jshane View Post
    Wow... After about 3 or 4 weeks, I can't get strings to intonate properly... Drives me crazy. I'm jealous that you can get strings to last that long.
    That's the same problem I have. I like coated strings for their ease of playability, and it reduces the rust issue (and green fingers), but I haven't found a set of strings yet that doesn't start to lose intonation pretty noticeably after 3-4 weeks. I can't figure out how people keep playing strings past this point, unless they're just not hearing it?

  28. #73
    Registered User almeriastrings's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    One difference that can be involved... how hard you play. I tend to "whip it like a mule", and I too get intonation issues before they actually go "dead" as such. My wife, on the other hand, can keep a set going for months... I looked at the strings under my microscope ( I know ) and saw that mine had deep depressions and wear on the underside of the strings over the frets, while hers did not... then there is skin chemistry... some more oily or acidic than others... so I suspect these factors are both implicated.
    Gibson F5 'Harvey' Fern, Gibson F5 'Derrington' Fern
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    Northfield Big Mon #127
    Ellis F5 Special #288
    '39 & '45 D-18's, 1950 D-28.

  29. #74

    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    What would cause them to lose intonation? I go a year or more. They don't change strings on pianos.
    Richard Hutchings

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    Default Re: Pava Player versus a Northfield M

    Quote Originally Posted by Dick Hutchings View Post
    What would cause them to lose intonation? I go a year or more. They don't change strings on pianos.
    As I understand it, it's because the bottom of the string gets a depression. When that gets big/deep enough it throws off the intonation (I think because the scale length must change a bit?) For pianos the striking mechanism doesn't cause the string to deform that way.

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