Annoyed by my The Loar Lm 600 second A string

[Delaware]

Ok, I am at my wit's end. My The Loar LM 600, which I bought used from The Mandolin Store where Dennis checked it out and adjusted the setup, has a brat second A string that will not stay in tune beyond a few notes or strums. I have checked the usual suspects (bad wrap, spongy loop ends, loose tuner) and no dice. Changed the set and it still happens. What could be causing this? I see it from time to time on here where someone's mandolin will not stay in tune.

I trust it's not the nut slot or the bridge because I assume that would have been caught at the store.

Help?

[Timbofood]

Sounds like nut to me, might just be slightly sticky. Have you rubbed a pencil through the slot?

[rockies]

My guess as well, sometimes the nut slots (or saddle) are not rounded but more of a "V" shape and pinch the string. I would try the pencil in the slot as Timothy suggested, also get a set of welding torch orifice cleaners (very inexpensive ) and use the guage of your string and gently clean the slot (just to round the bottom), don't file it down. Make sure you don't take down the fingerboard side of the slot. If that doesn't do it do the same at the bridge saddle slots.
Dave

[nickster60]

Those welding torch cleaners are handy little tools. I have a set I have used to clean more carb jets than I can count and just about anything else with a small opening.

I would try the pencil first as the others have suggested.

[Fred Young]

have you checked under the tail piece cover. Make sure the loop is pushed all the way to bottom of hook. If it isn't the hook will give till it breaks off.

[Freddyfingers]

Although unlikely, any chance its slipping at the tuner? Nut slot sounds about right, but could there be a faulty tuner that's slipping? Either way, I have one that was just set up with a Cumberland bridge by Cumberland , and it sounds and plays great. Fix this bug and you should be very happy with it.

[terzinator]

The A pair is always the most finicky. Probably lots of threads on it, here's one.

For me, a tuner swap actually helped a lot. (Gotoh's to Grover's)

[Tobin]

My The Loar LM 600, which I bought used from The Mandolin Store where Dennis checked it out and adjusted the setup, has a brat second A string that will not stay in tune beyond a few notes or strums.

Just to make sure we understand your issue, does that A string tend to go sharp or flat?

Every mandolin I've ever owned tends to have the A strings go sharp from the time I first tune it up to the time I get warmed up. It seems to be a function of many variables, including the instrument and strings warming up under my hands and being close to my body, as well as possibly humidity from my breathing, pressure and vibration of the strings as I play, and Lord knows what else. But I almost always have to readjust my A strings after playing the first few minutes. And they don't go sharp at the same rate, so they get out of tune with each other (as well as out of tune with the other courses). It's usually the A string that's next to the E strings that is the worst offender, though not always. This is probably due to them having different overall lengths from hook to tuner, despite having equal bridge-to-nut lengths. I have mandolins ranging from cheap to very expensive, old to new, and they all do it to some degree. Is this what you're experiencing, or is it that one of them goes noticeably flat?

[sunburst]

I agree that the nut slot is the prime suspect, but lubing the slot with pencil lead (graphite) is sort of like prescribing pain meds for a toothache. It helps the symptoms but it doesn't fix the problem. The strings should be sitting in well fitted nut slots so that they tune without binding in the slots. When they are, lubing the slots is not necessary.

[bart mcneil]

This may not be the cause but if the strings are new, or that string is new, It will often take a while to settle down and hold its tune without settling further It depends on whether the installer knew what he was doing when the strings were installed and if not the string may be settling naturally. There is no way for you to know for sure unless you installed the strings yourself.

Which would be my next suggestion. Install a new set of strings on the instrument carefully following the instructions on FRETS.COM. That will at least eliminate the probability of poorly installed strings. And will tell you whether it is a mechanical problem with that tuner.

[Delaware]

Thanks all. Just FYI the string goes flat

[lflngpicker]

One technique that helps me to keep my mandolins and guitars in tune more effectively is to tune the string accurately, then to carefully give the string a firm tug upward to seat the string in tune. Then, retune and pull (not too hard but firmly) and retune. After doing this three times, usually you can perform an hour or so with just a bit of tweaking, but those radical pitch drops don't occur as easily. I agree that sometimes the tuners need some adjustment or even replacing.

[Delaware]

It was a bad wrap on the post. It was wound too many times. Thanks for help, especially Bart who steered me to the excellent frets.com resource. Merry Christmas!

[bart mcneil]

It is natural for a string not installed properly to go flat. and unlikely for a string to go sharp under the circumstances you mentioned. The problem is almost certainly the method used to install that string, if it is the only string doing that. It is unlikely that the tuner mechanism is faulty, but i guess it is possible.

Whoops,,, i just read your last post. Yes, too many unnecessary winds around the tuner post is often the problem. The fewer the winds the better. That little secret will prevent a lot of headaches in the future when you install new strings.

I have read folks on this site say that "String installation cannot be the problem as it is wrapped six or seven times around the tuner post." But of course over wrapping is often the reason there is a problem.