Trinity College Octave Mandolin Action

[Scotty18]

Hi everyone,

I bought a new Trinity College Octave Mandolin a couple of years ago that had low action but quite a lot of fret buzz. About six months ago I brought it to a very respected luthier who did a proper set up and installed a Headway pickup. I opted for Mandola strings, which are definitely a lot thicker than the strings that were initially on the OM when I bought it.

Anyway, the set up was very professional and I felt as though the mandolin had a much deeper voice with the higher gauge strings and higher action as well as more volume. The fret buzz was also completely gone.

I was playing the OM today and noticed that the action looked a little high. I don't think anything has changed since when I picked it up but I haven't had much time to really sit down with it. I did a measurement and at the 12th fret the bass side is 4mm and the treble is 3mm. I am just wondering if this is an acceptable height for the TC OM? I like to dig in so obviously the added height helps but I am wondering if maybe the luthier put the action a little too high?

[allenhopkins]

Your instrument may be "deforming" slightly due to the pull of the heavier strings, aided by the humidity changes associated with the onset of colder temperatures. (I'm assuming you're in the northern hemisphere.)

Can't speak to what's "normal" for a TC octave in terms of string height, but if you're noticing a difference, t'would make sense to revisit your "respected luthier" and have the set-up rechecked.

There's an acceptable range for string heights, but where you have yours set within that range is a matter of taste and technique. If you like the higher action, and the instrument's not being damaged, you could stick with it. I do think, however, that since you're noticing a change, caution indicates having the instrument checked for neck curvature, movement at the neck-body joint, etc.

[Tavy]

I would say that's definitely too high - normally the guitar standard of around 2mm would be the "target" for these. It may well be that the heavier strings are starting to deform the instrument - sorry!

[jonny250]

It may not be the same for the TC, but the advice i had for my Weber 22" from Bruce was "the action at the 12th fret should be about 5/64 from the top of the fret to the bottom of the G string and about 1/16 on the E side". Thats 2mm and 1.6mm .
I had some G string buzz and have raised it a bit and prefer the more 'poppy' sound that way.
check the neck for straightness too though.

[Tavy]

I would say that's definitely too high - normally the guitar standard of around 2mm would be the "target" for these. It may well be that the heavier strings are starting to deform the instrument - sorry!

Actually I may have spoken too soon, no one has mentioned - check the neck for straightness - if the truss rod adjustment is out of whack then you can end up with a really shocking action very easily. From memory the Troubadore/Hora zouk I had for a while (which I think is the same manufacturer as yours?) had a rather bendy neck that needed to be kept true via the truss rod.

[multidon]

Trinity College instruments are made in China by Saga not by the Hora factory in Romania.

You should always set your neck relief first before setting your bridge height action, on any instrument.

[Scotty18]

Thank you the input everyone! I am just really kicking myself that I did not measure the action when I first picked the TC OM up from the luthier. I remember the action being higher than when I brought it in but it wasn't terrible. The action could be the exact same as it was, I just found that the last time I played it, the action seemed a little too high. Also, the "A" string on my TC had pretty bad buzz when I would dig in when I first bought it new. I remember when I picked it up from the luthier the buzz was still a bit apparent but definitely not bad at all. However, now there's no buzz at all which makes me think that the neck might be the issue or that the action has increased.

Anyway, I have read online that a lot of people use Mandola strings on their TC OM so I really doubt that the strings are starting to deform the instrument. Personally, I would like the action to be more like 3mm on the bass side and 2mm on the treble. It's just unfortunate that my luthier is so far because I can't see myself getting there until around Christmas. I am not sure if I should remove some strings to decrease the tension because that has me worried now.

[multidon]

I really don't think the strings are the problem. Mandola string sets are generally 11-42 and most octave mandolin sets are 12-46 so they are probably on the light side. I truly believe what you have there is that your idea and your luthiers idea of a good set up are two different things. It isn't rocket science. Find out where your truss rod adjustment is. It will be either through the sound hole or on the headstock under a screwed on cover. Figure out what type and size of wrench you need. There are a bunch of types but I'm betting its a 4 mm Allen wrench because these are common on import instruments. Loosen your string tension a bit but not fully. Turn a bit to the left to check for proper operation. You should feel it loosening. You can't hurt anything by loosening. Once you are sure it is working right put a capo on the first fret. You can use a precision straight edge too but most people don't have one. Tighten the truss rod a little bit at a time like 1/8th turn increments. Make your neck dead straight. Check this by holding the string down at you highest fret. With the capo this makes the string a straight edge. Once it is straight loosen about a quarter turn. This will put just a little relief in the neck. You could invest in a five dollar set of automotive feeler gauges to actually measure it at the 7th fret. Once this is done adjust your bridge so that you have your desired action. Measure this at the twelveth fret with a precision steel rule.

I feel setting relief and action is something every player can do for themselves. The tools you need only cost about 20 dollars. I don't see the need to run to the luthier every time this needs done. Now a complete set up with nut adjustment and fret work, that's a different story. But relief and action need adjustment often because of changing environmental factors.

[Scotty18]

multidon, I believe the Mandola strings are thicker than standard Octave Mandolin strings. On D'addario, a set of medium gauge Octave Mandolin strings are 12-46 and the Mandola strings range from 14-49 to 16-53. I know the strings on my OM are fairly thick. I am going to check the thickness today. When I brought it in I asked for Mandola strings but I don't know what set they put on.

I am not 100% sure if it's just a matter of a truss rod adjustment. The neck appears to have the perfect bit of relief in it. I am just thinking that either the luthier set the action a little too high to get past the buzzing that I was experiencing or I am just really noticing the action because of the thicker gauge strings. I love the tone when you strum a chord but the thicker gauge is fairly difficult to play.

[multidon]

Scotty, you are correct about mandola gauges. Sorry, wasn't thinking clearly I guess.

You could try switching to octave mandolin gauges to see if that helps. If you believe the relief is right and you adjust the bridge yourself to the correct action and you get fret buzz then I would suspect a high fret. Checking the frets for level is something your luthier should have done in set up but it is a step some skip.