Hidersine oil varnish

[Joey Anchors]

I was just doing sole research in oil varnish and found Hidersine. Has anyone used this brand and how did it preform?

[pheffernan]

There are a couple of mentions in the archives: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/se...archid=5530919

[Joey Anchors]

There are a couple of mentions in the archives: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/se...archid=5530919

Thanks pheffernan for the link! I got some reading to do

[John Kelly]

This link comes up with the "Sorry - No matches" message when I click on it.

[pheffernan]

Links:
http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...ight=Hidersine
http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...ight=Hidersine

[Joey Anchors]

If I want to finish a mandolin "blonde" color with out the use of stain do I need to use a primer base after prep sanding the surface and before applying the clear oil varnish coats?

[multidon]

The biggest reason for using a ground coat is do that the dye does not turn out blotchy. Don't ask how I know that! But if you are finishing blond not such a big deal. If you do decide to use a ground coat some violin makers use gelatin dissolved in water or thin hide glue, basically the same thing. That works well. In the old days violin makers used to use egg white. Not so sure what a good idea that is. There is a synthetic substitute for the egg white called "sizing" you can get from some suppliers. This is meant to be a pore filler to some extent. Some use a thin coat of sanderac for the same thing.

Violin finishing is somewhat different from the usual mandolin methods because instead of dying the wood violin colors are developed from layers of different colors of varnish. So what would probably work as good as anything else in your case is using the clear varnish itself as the ground coat, the first two coats being thinned down first. I had bad luck with hardware store turpentine. It has to be art store quality turpentine or pure mineral spirits is ok too. 2 parts varnish to 1 part thinner worked for me. After two thinned down coats, scuff sanded between each coat, you can start layering the thicker coats. You still might want to thin those just a little for easier application.


I have never used the Hidersine but the above worked for me using Hammerl oil varnish, the type sold by International Violin. I did dye my wood with a golden ground, used the varnish itself thinned down as a sealer, then layers of thicker colored varnish on top of that. I used several coats of red brown with several coats of Amber then two coats of clear on top. Altogether about 14 coats of varnish, which sounds like a lot, but these coats are very thin. You can still see the slight uneven grain texture of the spruce on my violin. That indicates a thin finish. You have to remember when you scuff between coats you remove some material. I also did two coats of Tru Oil over the varnish. Love the look.

I had good luck using disposable foam brushes. Bought them by the dozen. And remember patience is a virtue when using oil varnish, especially the ones designed for violins. I got into trouble a couple of times trying to rub it out before it was fully cured. At least a week between coats, even longer us better. Oil varnish is a big investment of time. If you are impatient like me you will learn patience!

[Joey Anchors]

Don, this is exactly the info I needed, thank you.

Going with the blonde finish look. How many coats of varnish should I put on?

As for time. I got all the time in the world.. (Hopefully I can be patient enough.. Haha)

Oh as for as for applying the varnish. Can I apply it with an old Tshirt balled up and rub it on French polish style with a voilin oil varnish?

[multidon]

Like I said, I got the looks I wanted with 14 coats. That sounds like an awful lot but each coat is quite thin with material removed each time with the scuff sand. I used 600 or 800 for that I think.

Oil varnish is made to be brushed on. Trying to wipe it on would not work. There is such a thing as wiping varnish. Danish oil and Formbys Tung Oil Finish are examples. Some people make their own wiping varnish by mixing equal parts of oil varnish, mineral spirits, and boiled linseed oil. With a mixture like that wiping would work. You see the reason it won't with straight varnish is that even though it takes a long time to cure it gets tacky quickly. Your best application is with the foam brush, work quickly in one direction, preferably with the grain, and don't try to go back over it once it's applied. Long strokes will mean a thin coat with no runs. Don't try to correct goofs like bubbles and specks. You just make it worse. Don't ask how I know that either. Just let it cure and you can correct problems with the scuff sand before applying the next coat. Practicing your application technique on scrap would not be a bad idea. Good luck! What are you finishing? A kit or and older stripped instrument?

You can find some good hints for working with oil varnish on the International Violin Web site. Go to their site, pick Varnishing Supplies from the menu, and you will see a link for varnishing instructions.

[StuartGold]

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