Washburn bowl back

[David Houchens]

I was just given a Washburn "tater bug" as a gift/major project when time allows. I've never messed with one of these in this shape. The open gaps between the staves close easily. But while closing the gaps I notice a fair amount of movement where they run under the wide band around the tail end.
My question is should this band (don't know the proper term) be removed and repair done beneath or after gluing the staves just work some hide glue under and clamp?

[David Houchens]

Serial number on label is A14976

[Michael Lewis]

Rather a different world from F and A styles. I have reset a couple tater bug necks and glued up a few seams but they are still unfamiliar territory for me. I have an old one in my shop that I have been putting off for a few months, and will have to 'open' it up before long.

Washburn was a top brand of Lyon and Healey, and that one looks like it should respond well with some TLC.

[David Houchens]

Michael,I would think resetting the necks in these would quite a bit more complicated than in a standard mandolin. My hat is off to you. The finger board on this one looks very dry and brittle. If the neck needs a reset I may opt for a new tapered finger board.

[David Houchens]

What would be an average bridge height on one of these. It didn't have one with it. Unstrung, using a straight edge, 5/16 sets the string height about right. Of coarse this is with no pressure on the top but it feels quite ridged. I would think it may need a neck set?

[Tavy]

What would be an average bridge height on one of these. It didn't have one with it. Unstrung, using a straight edge, 5/16 sets the string height about right. Of coarse this is with no pressure on the top but it feels quite ridged. I would think it may need a neck set?

If I've done my Math right, that's an 8mm bridge? If so that's plenty high for a bowlback, you can go as low as 4mm if you really have to, though obviously higher is better. About 15mm is about as high as the bridges for these ever get. Oh and they're generally only approx 5mm thick.

[David Houchens]

Great news.

[Jim Garber]

My question is should this band (don't know the proper term) be removed and repair done beneath or after gluing the staves just work some hide glue under and clamp?

I believe that it is most commonly termed the clasp. If it is partly loose and comes off easily I would take it off and reglue when the ribs are solid. These were built under some tension which is why either you see them with split ribs OR with cracks in the top, not usually both. John Maddock (Tavy) is one of our resident bowlback restorers here. he can elaborate

[David Houchens]

Jim, thanks. The clasp (much better) is not so much loose itself. Its more like some of the ribs are loose from the clasp in the area where the rib separation meets it. When I close the separation by hand I can see some movement there.
I know these aren't real valuable but really want to bring this mandolin back to playable condition. The lady that gave it to me is a dear friend.