Loose tuner bushings

[multidon]

I am working on an instrument right now (mandolin) and I took off the tuners to perform some of the work. I was shocked as 7 of the 8 bushings just dropped out! The eighth did not drop out but came out very easily. It appears the original holes were drilled too large as there don't appear to any striations from the original fit. I am looking for advice on what to do. I had a similar situation with another instrument. The holes were too large for the original bushings and standard guitar bushings too. I ended up purchasing "conversion" bushings for 1/4 in. diameter posts but to fit a 3/8th in. hole. These are for guitars with modern cast tuners being converted back to vintage style tuners. My solution worked but I had to enlarge the holes to fit them. I am reluctant to do that to this instrument. What are my options? All I can think of is glue 'em in. Is that it? If so what kind of glue? HHG, Titebond, Duco, CA, epoxy, something else? Or is there another option I'm missing?

[Dale Ludewig]

I'd put the tuners back on. You should probably put the bushings back on without glue to make sure everything turns smoothly. The take the bushings out, one at a time, and do a small drop of medium viscosity CA on the outside of the bushing. Be very very careful not to get any glue on the inside of the bushing or you'll glue the tuner shaft to the bushing. Don't ask how I know.

[sunburst]

If the fit is close, I sometimes "bush" the holes with superglue. Dip a Q-tip in CA, paint the inside of the hole (two or three times if needed), let cure completely, press the bushings in. (I think it is obvious, but I'll still point out that one must be careful not to get CA on the finish of the peghead or any other places it isn't wanted.)
If someone wants to change the bushings later, or repair the peghead, the bushings can be removed more easily with less chance of damage than if they are glued in.

[multidon]

John when you do the "painting" what viscosity do you use?

[Jerry Haynes]

I've used pipe tape. Don't know the exact name of it, white, used to wrap on pipe threads to get a good seal. wrap until you get the fit you need, they will stay in place. easy to remove later on. No glue required. Jerry

[sunburst]

John when you do the "painting" what viscosity do you use?

Just about any will do. Thinner cures faster so you don't have to wait as long for it to cure.

[Folkmusician.com]

I use John's method, other than the Q-tip. I normally use a toothpick, with just a little glue at a time on it. I like thin as it paints on evenly with the toothpick.

[multidon]

Well tried the Q Tip and Superglue idea. Almost started a fire. Dipped the Q Tip into the CA and right away it started smoking! Go hot too. I could feel the heat it gave off! I was afraid it would start a fire! Fortunately it didn't. Broke off the head and used the stick part instead with much better and safer results. Anyone know what the !@#$%^&* happened? It was definitely, as we used to say in chemistry class, a vigorous reaction.

[Marty Jacobson]

The surface area of the cotton q-tip caused the CA to cure very quickly. Since CA curing is exothermic, if it cures very quickly it can get very hot. Once I sprayed some accelerator near a bottle of thin CA, and some must have gotten inside. It started foaming over and the whole bottle got very hot. This also happens on things like homasote board, open-pore foams, paper towels, rags, you name it.
When I was young(er) and foolish(er), I would use CA glue on small rags to finish pens on the lathe (while spinning). You'd have to swipe across the pen and then toss the rag away, they always got very hot and would release some kind of steam or fumes. Never had any catch fire.

[sunburst]

For a little bit of shop fun, dip the Q-tip in CA and then spray it with accelerator! It will make a thing that looks like a piece of popcorn out of the end of the Q-tip while smoking and making a fizzing noise.

Must have been something in your swab that catalyzed whatever brand of CA you have. I use Q-tip brand swabs, and right now I have Satellite City CA, and though it "goes off" pretty fast on a swab, it's not immediate like yours was. I have time to "paint" inside a tuner hole at least, sometimes two or three holes with one dip.

[David Houchens]

I've had other brand Qtips do that very thing. Qtip brand doesn't seem to do it.
I seal the tuner holes with thin CA all the time now after having the wood raise up around the holes while wet sanding. Little too wet I guess. Even if you don't sand through the finish, it can shrink when dried out.
Mostly had this problem on banjo pegheads though. Won't do it on an ebony overlay, but have had it crack between screw holes when the back overlay was very thin.

[multidon]

Well tried the superglue idea and it didn't get me there even after several coats. Checked this topic on Frank Ford's sie and he says Titebond works in this application too but not quite as strong and longer to dry. I found I needed the Titebond because I could apply a much thicker layer. Let it dry overnight and just installed the bushings. They seem to be holding just fine.

I probably could have found the answer by looking at Frets.com first but then again I would be missing the opportunity to chat with you fine gentlemen!