Here's a quick suggestion.
Just in case you aren't already doing it, there's an ABSOLUTE requirement that you must never tune down to a note, but always UP to it. That relatively simple action...
Type: Posts; User: Frank Ford
Here's a quick suggestion.
Just in case you aren't already doing it, there's an ABSOLUTE requirement that you must never tune down to a note, but always UP to it. That relatively simple action...
I dunk a short section of binding in acetone, and using my #11 X-Acto blade, scoop off a tiny bit of the color I want.
When you start talking about this kind of thing, there are some interesting topics and considerations that might come up. For instance, how and why was the original made, and under what...
Naphtha is usually a decent first choice, but not having specific knowledge or direct access, I'd say you might find success if you try different methods and work very gently. As last resort, I...
Here's how I usually do it:
REINFORCING A BROKEN HEADSTOCK SCROLL
FIRST, it's important to understand terms. "Kerf" is the slot a saw makes. "Kerfing" is a corruption of that term, used by our crowd as applied to "kerfed linings," typical of factory made 20th...
Back in the day when we sold new Gibson instruments, we had a new L-5CES shipped from the Factory with a couple of rough sticks inside, used to prop the sides agains the mold. They were very tightly...
I'd say you're right about that, although the heat issue remains. Hide glue doesn't flow readily when a cured joint is heated, say, in a hot parked car. There is some question among some of us...
AMEN, bro!
I made this one in 1972, and like all 40 instruments from that period, with 100% liquid hide glue:
160131
No joint failure anywhere, nor anywhere on any of the 40-plus instruments we made...
I'd say the best plan is to scrape the surfaces completely clean to the wood.
If I'm interpreting the photo correctly, it looks like there is a lot of stringy glue showing in the joint. Hide...
Setting nut action is a matter of filing the slot a bit, tuning the string back up and checking the clearance over the first fret as the string is pressed down to contact the second and third frets. ...
I believe this instrument is a good candidate for refinishing. The top looks terrible as it is, and it could look really good again with the effort of a good vintage style finish application. After...
One difficulty not often mentioned is that gluing frets into oversize slots results in a slightly more compressible fingerboard. Standard compression (Gibson style) truss rods rely on having a very...
Do a quick eBay search for transfer pipette - there are lots of nice ones available for 1 - 3 cents each. . .
First, I must take issue with the bit about cases being included "back in the day." Martin, for example, did not include cases until 1971 when they went to direct factory distribution. Until then,...
Time to get it in the hands of a competent French polisher who can do a nice job on the top. All this discussion about maintaining originality gets a bit tedious, particularly when you have a...
Look inside with a mirror to be sure no braces are loose. . .
I'd grip the brass inserts with pliers and hold it tight while backing out the bridge adjusting screws. Those brass inserts are countersunk into spruce, which is too soft to hold tightly with the...
The original tires on my 1943 Delta 14" finally started throwing blades a few years ago, so I replaced them with those bright orange Sulphur Grove stretch-on urethane ones. The new tires worked so...
Over the years I've done a lot of work with just that kind of spray booth myself. Just gotta watch out for excessive room dust. . .
You'd never make that cut around the pearl dot with a 1/4" blade, so for sure you'll want to hold out for the 1/16 - a Google search should turn up some. It's been so long since I bought mine, I've...
.080 or thereabouts is standard width for Collings mandolins. I just measured a few with digital caliper at .078 -.079.
Close enuf.
It's not an uncommon problem, and clearly a fret issue. If you bought it from a reputable dealer, they should address it for you without hesititation or charge, including a potential for return.
I'd take my time, and do it as a drop-fill. Tru-oil hardens by oxidation, and it helps to do thin layers rather than a big glob, so I'd dip a toothpick in the oil, and place a tiny drop in the hole,...