+1. I recently started making in batches of 6 instruments and its wonderful to be able to have them all lined up at the end of the process - you quickly pick your favorite features. Making one or two...
Type: Posts; User: Tony Francis
+1. I recently started making in batches of 6 instruments and its wonderful to be able to have them all lined up at the end of the process - you quickly pick your favorite features. Making one or two...
John, Very cool saw and great pictures - that brake is a great idea. Try again on the upper Carter wheel though - their website states "starting at $1,400.00" USD. What motor do you have running it?...
That letter is gold, John!
Very cool saw indeed. A couple years back I saw John's saw here and ever since had been seeking something of that vintage out. I finally found one, and am in the process...
And good thing too. Whatever the carrier is, it smells cheap! I try to inspire every sense (and not excluding smell) with the whole package of an instrument, and happy to say that smell disappears...
+3! And as above, it is more to do with how you apply it than the finish itself - most all complaints are by first time users.
Wonderful product - my only wish is that they made a seedlac version...
Thats the part I always find the hardest. Whenever I do that, I just seem to pick up shellac, or get lint stuck in the shellac, or both. At what point does it polish, rather than remove shellac!?
...
Blue and Red - that goes back to the color wheel. Quite common for violin makers chasing the ruby red of their varnish gounds.
One automotive painter who switched over to painting instruments swore by retarder, saying it sped up the process by allowing the surface to remain open and allow the fast solvents out and allow more...
For what its work, I have owned a Hacklinger gauge for years and consider it an essential tool - whatever the price (more or less).
Most polishes will do that, even to lacquer.
Such amazing and no doubt hard earned advise in this thread!
One thing that really helped me was to think about sanding as not only a smoothing, but also a leveling tool. After all, its a level...
TJ is a true master, and has a wonderful way of talking about things.
E6iSvL2McYM]http://youtu.be/E6iSvL2McYM
John is exactly correct, although I always prefer to heat the nut (foil shield, craft iron) before tapping it out. I would do that no matter what it was glued with, often there is no way to know.
My issue with that is potential for finish damage, with less aware repair people. Unless you are using odorless CA glue, regular CA is prone to leaving a cloudy white vapor trail. With waterbase...
Looks like you have your work cut out for you there! I hope you have a bottle of De-glue goo!
Hide glue is great for the nut. Sit it on the edge of your pot while the instrument is warmed with...
Have you looked into Madder root, James?
What about a tutorial, James!?
Bob uses large wood flanges on his wheels - you see the same thing at Addam Starks Facebook page. Give them a try and see how you like them - they are easy to make!
Why is that really small vintage type wire only sold in stainless steel?
James,
Grobet files are spectacular. They are available from jewelery supply places.
As John mentions, Jewelers blades are graded from 2/0 up to 8/0. The 2/0 is what they teach with at community colleges, but most craftspeople seem to use about a 4/0 or 5/0. They are cheap, buy a doz...
Not to sound curmudgeon like, but I recently had a private lesson of sorts with a local boutique custom jeweler. We were talking about tools, and when she saw my jewelers saw frames asked about them....
Rick,
I wipe it on with a paper towel around the neck. I just finished my first instrument with CA (before that always pumice or oil paste filler depending on the finish) and I thought It worked...
Jim, what would the modern equivalent of the old Binks model 15, be?