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just to add to the good ideas, a digital meat thermometer is a good idea just to check you are getting your glue around 145F or so not 160F or 130F . once you get the knob set right it is still good...

Just thinking out loud here, but does the finger board really need to be air dried, or do we know that the ebony/rosewood we get ( from who knows where) has not been kiln dried? I would choose air...

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if you don't mind reading a lot , here is a link to get you started. joe has the varnish thing down pretty well, but seeing as you are not going to varnish anymore maybe its a waste of time?

straight razors make excellent scribes also

I agree with tim, there are things going on in the wood , what effect they have on the sound is another story.

conventional wisdom I think has been changing over the years.

Old wood can...

its in the grain size, so if you find something with the same hardness and grain size as rottenstone you can use what you like. There have been some comments that rottenstone is not what is was 10...

very sad

i would also guess there would be a lot of steel wool manufacturers in china burning up,
ps. I think you meant flammability

yes I am interested in the fibral also has anyone compared it to steel wool?

if it makes any difference, that is the tuning for tenor banjo and viola

i went with the pro $500 and I am happy with it, I wanted one with two phantom power channels , the weight and size is also a big plus.

the results will be as good as you put the time in. Its pretty basic, if you know a machine shop guy he can turn a piece of pipe for you mount bearings make table etc. so if you have friends and more...

thanks, I use the braggs on my 4 string and am very happy with it and a red eye preamp.
do you shorten the wire to get rid of the excess?

was he running the wire for the pickup through the foot or and internal pickup?

looks like he is using a viola blank finger board without reducing. If you have the time and find the rough outline, I would be glad to pay for the mailing of it. I see that he gives you a free...

the fingerboard as I understand it is take a stock board and don't make it narrower as you normally would, but I think you would make it thinner as usuall thickness wise, not width wise.

thanks paul, I had seen some people fiddle with the bass bar for the lower response. I have the ribs made and working on the back now. so glad the 4/4 is the way to go. thanks again.

I hope this is not too off topic , I am looking to make one and would appreciate any info that anyone might want to share. such as fingerboard width, string spacing, and bass bar size placement,...

they are beautiful, you have a very fine sense of detail.

I just made some new blades for some ibex I had, and I found I made the blades too thick, at least I think that I can't seem to get...

there are a couple of really good HHg articles on the net. Fear not, it is very easy to work with, just have to keep it temp and time in mind.

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playing in a new violin definitely improves the sound, I do question the purfling loosening, first its pretty much a tight fit when you put it in, and the hide glue last quite a long time, and on...

yes galvanized is bad at higher temps will give off toxic fumes. Wash the black pipe off with solvent before you use it to get the grease off. If you can find a chuck of steel the shape you want it...

very nice book , thanks very much.

well that does sound good. I will check out ebay, usually for something like this I would be hesitant, thanks for that info