Quote:
Originally Posted by
papawhisky
It seems like two techniques have emerged. The way I am doing it, using the midpoint node (12 fret harmonic), and/or fretting the string at the 12th fret and using a tuner. Actually I have done it both ways, but have started to prefer using the harmonic.
Actually, you could position the bridge an inch out of place, tune the top string to an E and have the harmonic perfect! But it wouldnt play right fretted! See my point?
Quote:
I started using the harmonic so I could avoid depressing the string at the 12 fret, which necessarily sharps the string. It is the nature of fretted instruments that the act of fretting increases the tension on the string, thereby raising the pitch of the string.
Indeed it does. But how often do you play a tune with all harmonics? The idea is to play with the strings fretted, and hence tune the E to the 12th fret.
Quote:
Because this happens, I wasn't sure if when I adjusted for an exact octave difference, I was actually finding the exact scale length. (I've also measured for scale length).
Inless you can accurately measure to 1/64" and add the allowance for compensation, then that isn't going to work.
Quote:
Clearly I've spent too much time on this. And it probably gets into the practical application of the equal-tempered scale, which I do not claim to understand.
Don't even go there. ;)
It isn't practical on a fretted instrument.
Quote:
I was just changing strings and wondered "does anyone have a better way?"
Papawhisky
Change two strings at a time and don't move the bridge once you have it right. :grin:
Rod