Covering binding sanding error "black spots"

In a few places, I over scraped or sanded the white-black-white binding and the black shows on the outside (vs. being buried in the middle). It's primarily on the top area of the binding. Any way to cover this up with white "something"?

Thanks,

Best to replace the binding. It's one of those things where fixing it can never look "right", unless you just bite the bullet and do it over.

A question that relates to this since you recommend that he replace it. Is there a good way to remove celluloid binding that has been glued on with CA? I ask because I have an unfinished mandolin that has white celluloid binding I want to replace. It seems to be attached very well and I was hoping that I could get it off without having to route it off.

Bindings, glued with anything, will usually tear out some splinters if you just grab them and pull. Even Duco cement sticks to the wood enough to make peeling bindings risky. Routing plastic is a chore I'd much rather avoid. Cutters grab, binding melts, celluloid can ignite, there is smoke and fumes...
So, no, there is no "good" way, that I know of. I'd score deeply at the edges of the binding, work a thin blade under, and slowly, gradually pry and peel it off.

That is almost exactly what I was expecting you to say (write).

There is a solvent for CA. It will destroy finish, but since yours is unfinished that's not a concern. If you can get started on one end and take your time you should be able to use that to get it off with minimal damage.

Trying to rout binding will destroy a carbide bit.

Dale the solvent for CA is acetone. I have not tried it because of concerns about it making a mess of the wood as the binding dissolves.

I've had to remove binding several times for one reason or another. It is easiest if you take it off the same day you put it on, but it sounds like it has been on there a while? I've routed and that was very difficult, and now I know why my bit was so dull the next time I went to use it, thanks Jim! I've found that Johns method works best for me, but I do soften things up a bit with the heat gun prior to digging that thin blade.

This is one of those LMI bearing cutters after trying to rout away some celluloid I was unhappy with. Never fun to have to re-order one of these.

Bill, the stuff I'm talking about may have acetone in it, but I can't smell it and it doesn't flash off quickly like acetone. This is labelled Super Solvent and is from Golden West. It says it it an alcohol/nitroalkanes based solvent...... Mine cost $10 for 2 fl. oz. FWIW.