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		<title>Mandolin Cafe Forum - Builders and Repair</title>
		<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/</link>
		<description>Discussions for those with an interest in the construction and repair of mandolin family instruments.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sun, 26 May 2013 02:08:16 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Mandolin Cafe Forum - Builders and Repair</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Mandolin stand...respray?</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95808-Mandolin-stand-respray&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 17:14:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Can anyone tell me how to repsray a black mandolin stand? 
 
I bought a can of Rustoleum high gloss white spray paint which the shop told me can go...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Can anyone tell me how to repsray a black mandolin stand?<br />
<br />
I bought a can of Rustoleum high gloss white spray paint which the shop told me can go directly onto painted metal which can be cleaned with hot water.<br />
<br />
Got home and the instructions say that the surface should be primed.<br />
<br />
Can I use white spirit to clean off any dust and grease and just spray directly?<br />
<br />
Or will the spray paint just come off?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>clobflute</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95808-Mandolin-stand-respray</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>How to stop a small creeping (now) back seperation?</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95792-How-to-stop-a-small-creeping-(now)-back-seperation&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 20:47:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have an F2 that is starting to separate at the top point. That is... the back is very slowly turning up at the corner of the point. In a month it...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an F2 that is starting to separate at the top point. That is... the back is very slowly turning up at the corner of the point. In a month it has crept through the point and making it's way toward the neck. I am starting to see a sliver of air space through the point when I hold it up to the light. Is there a way to stop this now by thin hide glue,  or do I wait until it's a bigger but maybe easier job? The air out here in the desert is not old wood friendly.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>pefjr</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95792-How-to-stop-a-small-creeping-(now)-back-seperation</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Newspaper catastropphe avoided!</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95790-Newspaper-catastropphe-avoided!&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 20:04:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I'm using Mario Proulx's newspaper/white glue technique to fine tune the backboard, and had the mandolin tuned up over night full tension.  I get...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I'm using Mario Proulx's newspaper/white glue technique to fine tune the backboard, and had the mandolin tuned up over night full tension.  I get it out today, doing some fine sanding on the outside.  Play it listening for some tonal changes and I hear this &quot;click&quot;.. odd.. I look over the mandolin and come to the conclusion that the tailpiece cover must have seated itself or something.  Didn't think anything of it, but oddly the tuning was down about -20 cents.  I contributed this to my fine tuning the back and thought oh heck the top and back are finally setting in..  So I retune it back to full tension!  (DUMB!)<br />
<br />
Then I am actually putting the thing away to let it sit for a while when my eyes glance at the button and I see this 1/32&quot; gap all around the heel and button!  OMG!  I don't think I had ever detuned a mandolin so fast!  Avoided catastrophe!<br />
<br />
It got me wondering, anyone have some good horror stories that you can tell without tearing up?  ~o)</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>fscotte</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95790-Newspaper-catastropphe-avoided!</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Meet the maker luthier  interview- Gary Nava</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95782-Meet-the-maker-luthier-interview-Gary-Nava&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 15:17:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Not quite sure if anyone will be interested, but I just been interviewed by “Acoustic Soundboard” an independent UK forum, as part of their “Meet the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Not quite sure if anyone will be interested, but I just been interviewed by “Acoustic Soundboard” an independent UK forum, as part of their “Meet the maker” series.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://acousticsoundboard.co.uk/thread/958/meet-makers-gary-nava" target="_blank">http://acousticsoundboard.co.uk/thre...kers-gary-nava</a><br />
<br />
Cheers Gary</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>GarY Nava</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95782-Meet-the-maker-luthier-interview-Gary-Nava</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Question about polishing compound</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95781-Question-about-polishing-compound&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 14:57:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I built a few guitars back in the day, and after wet sanding I generally used Turtle Wax polishing compound to rub out the lacquer. This was the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I built a few guitars back in the day, and after wet sanding I generally used Turtle Wax polishing compound to rub out the lacquer. This was the white stuff that came in the green plastic container. Worked just fine for me.<br />
<br />
Now, 30 years later (yikes!) I have a new instrument with a lacquer finish that I'd like to rub out the same way. Problem is that when I go to the store to look for the polishing compound, I can't find the old original stuff. Turtle Wax still sells a polishing compound, in a green plastic tub, but it says &quot;Safe for Clearcoats&quot;, which makes me think it ain't the same.<br />
<br />
Anyone know if the old tried and true stuff still exists, or if not, what the modern analog is? Does the &quot;safe for clearcoat&quot; stuff work the same, and is it &quot;safe for fresh nitrocellulose lacquer&quot;? I should add that I'm invested in the idea of buying something simple locally rather than ordering anything fancy from StewMac or somewhere like that. :)<br />
<br />
Thx!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Rick Lindstrom</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95781-Question-about-polishing-compound</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>F5 Mandolin Kits</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95757-F5-Mandolin-Kits&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 04:20:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am familiar with the usual Stew-mac and Simonoff f5 kits.  Any others out there? (maybe comparable in quality to the cheap IV and saga A kits)?  I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am familiar with the usual Stew-mac and Simonoff f5 kits.  Any others out there? (maybe comparable in quality to the cheap IV and saga A kits)?  I am looking for something that I can tool around with for slightly less money than the SM and Sim kits.    Also, anyone have any experience with the LMI F5 kit? It mentions that it is non-serviced.  Anyone have specifics on what this means?<br />
<br />
Thanks for your help (AS ALWAYS).<br />
<br />
Mark</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>jazzjune18</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95757-F5-Mandolin-Kits</guid>
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			<title>Lyon and Healy mandolins</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95754-Lyon-and-Healy-mandolins&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 01:54:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a couple of questions about L&H mandolins.  Firstly, does anyone have any idea what species of Spruce they used in those days.  I have a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a couple of questions about L&amp;H mandolins.  Firstly, does anyone have any idea what species of Spruce they used in those days.  I have a symmetric model A made around 1918.  The back is obviously Rock Maple, but I have no idea what the top is.  Unlikely to be Sitka or Engelmann, so that leaves Red and European.  Impossible to tell even without varnish, but I would guess European since these instruments do not have a big dynamic range.  But then again I could be wrong.<br />
<br />
Second question is how is the pickguard attached in the later assymmetric models.  Mine screws into the point, but I can't see any screw in pictures of the assymmetric models.<br />
<br />
Next question is I have seen some pictures with adjustable bridges.  Are these original, or have the original one piece bridges been replaced.  My bridge is only 14mm high, so would be a squeeze to fit an adjustable bridge.  Is the bridge height higher on the later models?<br />
<br />
Reason for asking is I am starting work on a new model of mandolin to be based on my L&amp;H.  I would also like to be able to offer an assymetrical mandolin with a 13&quot; scale length.  Unfortunately I can't just drop into a vintage music shop because these mandolins are virtually unkown here in Australia.  Quite a few decisions need to be made on how closely to copy the original.  I think I have found someone who can reproduce the tailpiece cover, but the scroll headstock is a bigger problem because the tuners are different, and it is a heck of a lot of extra work.  Cost needs to be a consideration as well so I am thinking of passing on the scroll headstock and the leg pin.  There is no point in making an instrument that costs a lot more than an original.  Still have not decided what I am going to do about the headstock.  The style B headstock is a possibility, but the tuners are worm under and it is still quite a bit more work than a small snakehead (i.e. same shape as the original but no scroll).  Exact copies I think I will leave to Rigel and the folks who can afford to pay the premium for all that extra work.  Reproducing the sound should not be too hard since my smaller bodied long necked oval hole does sound surprisingly similar to the original L&amp;H.<br />
<br />
Any thoughts?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>peter.coombe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95754-Lyon-and-Healy-mandolins</guid>
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			<title>Griffith Loar A-5 drawings?</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95713-Griffith-Loar-A-5-drawings&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 00:54:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Are there any accurate griffith loar a-5 plans out there taken from the original? Are siminoffs accurate? Thanks!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Are there any accurate griffith loar a-5 plans out there taken from the original? Are siminoffs accurate? Thanks!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>vhughes2000</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95713-Griffith-Loar-A-5-drawings</guid>
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			<title>Iveroid Fret Board Binding Material help</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95698-Iveroid-Fret-Board-Binding-Material-help&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 12:48:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have been asked to replace a fret board on an excellent 10 year old F-5 mandolin.  The instrument is bound in a very fine grained type of iveroid. ...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have been asked to replace a fret board on an excellent 10 year old F-5 mandolin.  The instrument is bound in a very fine grained type of iveroid.  There are 8 grain stripes to 1/8 of an inch.  (The usual guitar iveroid is about 4 to 5 grain stripes per 1/8&quot;.)<br />
<br />
Is any one familiar with this style of binding and have some they will sell or swap?  I need about 32&quot; of 3/16&quot; x 0.0025&quot;  or any thing close to or of larger width and thickness.<br />
<br />
I must admin I have become a bit obsessed with finding a matching material. It a very good mandolin the original character should be preserved with the repair.<br />
<br />
I would welcome any advise as to possible sources of similar binding material.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>jarblinx</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95698-Iveroid-Fret-Board-Binding-Material-help</guid>
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			<title>repairing nitrocellulose finish</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95692-repairing-nitrocellulose-finish&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 02:14:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>As luck would have it, my 5 year old attacked me while i was playing, resulting in the nick in the finish in the image below (boy meets music stand...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>As luck would have it, my 5 year old attacked me while i was playing, resulting in the nick in the finish in the image below (boy meets music stand meets mandolin).  At any rate, contrary to what it looks like, i am 98% sure that the nick is just in the finish, not the wood (it is the lighting of the photo that creates the illusion).  Is this something that can be easily repaired by a violin or music shop?  Im in Billings, so have one of each store... If so, any (ROUGH) estimates on what this would cost??<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=102294&amp;d=1369016004" id="attachment102294" rel="Lightbox_0" ><img src="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=102294&amp;d=1369016004&amp;thumb=1" border="0" alt="Click image for larger version.&nbsp;

Name:	nick.jpg&nbsp;
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Size:	199.5 KB&nbsp;
ID:	102294" class="thumbnail" style="float:CONFIG" /></a><br />
<br />
I know that this is the first of many nicks in the finish, but ......<br />
<br />
THANKS for your help.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>jazzjune18</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95692-repairing-nitrocellulose-finish</guid>
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			<title>Build in Planning - Advice?</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95687-Build-in-Planning-Advice&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 21:04:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Recently I have been considering the possibility of building a solid-body electric instrument over the summer. Currently I plan for it to be a 5...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Recently I have been considering the possibility of building a solid-body electric instrument over the summer. Currently I plan for it to be a 5 string, tuned C-G-D-A-E (OM/'cello tuning) and possibly fretless. I'd expect to build the body, neck, bridge, tailpiece, and possibly pickups myself, although nothing is certain yet, and would probably install a non-adjustable truss rod (as I probably will not be able to get my hands on an adjustable one) although if it proves too difficult and the instrument will be fine w/out one I may forgo a truss rod altogether.<br />
<br />
The problem is that I don't know much about building instruments (as you can probably tell already) and I'll need some advice with basically every detail. If anyone could give me an idea of the type of work I would have to do in order to make a quality instrument (things that my 14 year old brain wouldn't initially consider) and how extensive that work would be, as well as any useful tips and warnings, I would greatly appreciate it!<br />
<br />
Also, if anyone could help with the various measurements and dimensions involved that would also be very useful, at the moment I am thinking 23.5&quot; scale length.<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>TheArimathean</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95687-Build-in-Planning-Advice</guid>
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			<title>Tone Difference Solid Top vs. Laminated Top</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95685-Tone-Difference-Solid-Top-vs-Laminated-Top&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 16:09:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I recorded tapping two bouzouki mahogany tops of identical size and weight, not attached to the sides. The thicknesses are different by .015". The...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I recorded tapping two bouzouki mahogany tops of identical size and weight, not attached to the sides. The thicknesses are different by .015&quot;. The solid top is braced; the laminated top is not braced. Will one or the other make a better sounding instrument?<br />
<a href="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=102282&amp;d=1368979747"  title="Name:  Bouzouki #1 Top Taps 1.mp3
Views: 39
Size:  1.44 MB">Bouzouki #1 Top Taps 1.mp3</a></div>


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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Tommando</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95685-Tone-Difference-Solid-Top-vs-Laminated-Top</guid>
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			<title>Interesting fret thoughts from PRS</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95681-Interesting-fret-thoughts-from-PRS&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 15:01:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Got me re-thinking my fret installation, I typically only glue the ends. Not so interested in stainless anymore...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Got me re-thinking my fret installation, I typically only glue the ends. Not so interested in stainless anymore :popcorn:
<iframe class="restrain" title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/EzKT8WrZhhc?wmode=opaque" frameborder="0"></iframe>
</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Dobe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95681-Interesting-fret-thoughts-from-PRS</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Newson mandolins</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95675-Newson-mandolins&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 May 2013 03:42:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I can't seem to find a website for newson mandolins anymore.  Anyone know where Paul can be reached...?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I can't seem to find a website for newson mandolins anymore.  Anyone know where Paul can be reached...?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Ken Willms</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95675-Newson-mandolins</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Fretwork on bound fingerboard</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95663-Fretwork-on-bound-fingerboard&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 15:24:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, I am not a builder. I was wondering how much harder it is to do fret filing or even refretting on a bound fingerboard. Does the builder/repair...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, I am not a builder. I was wondering how much harder it is to do fret filing or even refretting on a bound fingerboard. Does the builder/repair person remove the binding?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>avaldes</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95663-Fretwork-on-bound-fingerboard</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Paint stripping advice sought</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95658-Paint-stripping-advice-sought&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 12:24:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Dear all, 
my question regards a Turkish saz rather than a mandolin, but your forum seems very lively and congenial, so I thought I might ask here,...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font color="#0000CD">Dear all,<br />
my question regards a Turkish saz rather than a mandolin, but your forum seems very lively and congenial, so I thought I might ask here, if it's ok.<br />
I recently got this saz (cheap but with great sound) that has one serious problem: the body has been painted with black varnish or lacquer, not sure what it is exactly, and the paint never quite set. Even in moderate ambient temperature everything it comes into contact with sticks to it and ruins the finish, which creates practical problems, not just aesthetic ones.<br />
So my question to you is: what do I do? I could either remove the paint completely, but I'm not sure what the least harmful way is, or treat the existing paint somehow. If I do the former, what is the safest way to do it? Plane it off? Sand it? Apply some paint-thinning chemical? Or if the latter, matting it with a fine mesh sander has been suggested to me by a non-expert, but would that change the behaviour of the paint?<br />
<br />
Any advice you could offer will be very much appreciated! </font></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Aubergine</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95658-Paint-stripping-advice-sought</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Gibson K2 Mandocello Pick Guard & Bracket]]></title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95651-Gibson-K2-Mandocello-Pick-Guard-amp-Bracket&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 22:42:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Just purchased an incredible Gibson K2 Mandocello.  Serial #41030.  The seller thought it was a 1907, Ben @ Fiddlers Green/Austin says the book says...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just purchased an incredible Gibson K2 Mandocello.  Serial #41030.  The seller thought it was a 1907, Ben @ Fiddlers Green/Austin says the book says it is a 1918.<br />
<br />
The original pickguard is in place, but the bracket is missing.  The pickguard is in bad shape, so I need to replace it as well.  Any suggestions for securing the bracket and a replica pick guard?<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Thomas Chapmond</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95651-Gibson-K2-Mandocello-Pick-Guard-amp-Bracket</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Luthier in Hono?</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95646-Luthier-in-Hono&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 19:19:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've got some fret work that needs to be done and I'm trying to find a mando luthier in Honolulu. Does anybody know if there is one there? I've done...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've got some fret work that needs to be done and I'm trying to find a mando luthier in Honolulu. Does anybody know if there is one there? I've done a search and come up with nada. Can't even find a mando dealer...lots of ukes though!<br />
<br />
I'm trying to reach out to Bluegrass Hawaii, but haven't heard back from them yet.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Dale</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>DaleP</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95646-Luthier-in-Hono</guid>
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			<title>Free class: acoustics, amp build</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95640-Free-class-acoustics-amp-build&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 13:59:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I signed up for this online class (https://www.coursera.org/course/audiomusicengpart1) even though I'm not a builder or repair guy.  They're teaching...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I signed up for <a href="https://www.coursera.org/course/audiomusicengpart1" target="_blank">this online class</a> even though I'm not a builder or repair guy.  They're teaching stuff I want to know more about.  If I don't like the class I can always get a refund...</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Bill Stokes</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95640-Free-class-acoustics-amp-build</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Plywood repair... no really!</title>
			<link>http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95633-Plywood-repair-no-really!&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 08:29:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[OK here's the thing - I've been handed a plywood instrument to repair, pin bridge has pulled off by partially delaminating the top :( 
 
Normally I...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>OK here's the thing - I've been handed a plywood instrument to repair, pin bridge has pulled off by partially delaminating the top :(<br />
<br />
Normally I would just say &quot;buy another one&quot;, but it belongs to a young person who's currently rather unwell, is rather attached to the instrument, and whose parents are rather broke.... so I said I'd try and help.... with all the usual caveats to the effect that it'll probably self-destruct no matter what I do!<br />
<br />
The only thing that concerns me is re-gluing the parts of the top that have delaminated - as there will still be old glue in there.  Thinking about it, I don't think HHG will hold in there, titebond might for a while anyway.  Epoxy is probably ideal and what they use to laminate the top in the first place?  But I'm less than confident about getting it right into the crevice.  Superglue?<br />
<br />
BTW I'm limited to whatever I have on the shelf for this as the budget is absolutely zero... so no exotic suggestions please! :mandosmiley:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?45-Builders-and-Repair">Builders and Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Tavy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?95633-Plywood-repair-no-really!</guid>
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