28 Gibson A

[mandocentric]

Folks, I have 28 Gibson A that I am considering doing some upgrades on. I was hoping for a little advice from the board.

Tuners - I should probably gets these regardless. I do not want to drill new holes in this mandolin. The mandolin is in really good shape and I do not want to muck it up. Is there a specific company the makes quality tuners for Vintage Gibsons.

Tailpiece - Although the Gibson has a wonderful tone should I expect to see an increase or change for the better with the addition of a new TP.

Bridge - The same thing applies as the above.

If anyone has any recomendations as to what products I should try please do so. Thx for the help I greatly apreciate it.

[atetone]

You shouldn't need to worry about the tuners. A 1928 should have the modern post hole spacings and you should be able to just switch them.
You might have to be #careful about which brand, due to length of the plates etc.. but that's all as far as I know.

[Lane Pryce]

Tony I would go with the Gibson Grovers on the tuners.I put em on my F9 and they fit perfectly and the satin finish matches the oem tailpiece too.As far as the tailpiece I would go with the Gibson again. They maintain the correct string afterlength and according to the guys at Gibson"it does make a difference." So in other words use OEM components for the best results. Just my modest two. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif Lp

[Tom C]

If the tuners work, I would keep them on.
Unless the cover of TP is missing, I would keep that too.
Bridge -Is there a problem with it?

Why not sell the mando and buy something that better suits yourself instead of butchering it?

[Darryl Wolfe]

Agree with Tom...something is wrong here. '28's had some of the best tuners ever made. The bridge should be an original Loar style adjustable one. You can't buy anything better..the tailpice and cover are worth about $175 if it original...how would you "upgrade" any of this...this subject is degrading http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[mandocentric]

There is nothing wrong with the mandolin. I at no point was going to throw away anything. It goes out of tune about a 1/4 step after every tune I play. I thought maybe the tuners neede to be upgraded. Can they be reworked in some way. I have another mando and I can bang on it pretty hard and it stays in tune for quite a while longer the my Gibson. As far as the rest of the components I thought maybe it could inhance what is already a beautiful tone. Be clear about something I do not want to harm this mandolin at all.

[Darryl Wolfe]

I see your point. Yes maybe another set of tuners would benefit the situation. It's a tough call on what to put on it though. The a-model selection is not nearly as good as the f-model selection of tuners right now.

If the bridge is fully original, I doubt you will see any improvement by replacing it. a new bridge top could be a good choice, as many of the originals were weak.

Have fun

[Pete Martin]

One thing to try is stretching the strings before tuning. #Also, when tuning, go below the pitch you want and tune UP to the note. #If you tune down to a note, the strings often get stuck in the nut and as soon as you play a hard note, go flat. #Take the stings below the note you want, stretch the string, then tune up. #This helps a lot, especially on some mandos.

Is the note that goes out of tune the A string closest to the D string? #If that is so, every mando has that problem. #The harder you play, the more that one stretches. #Join the crowd.

[wdrysd]

Collecting is one thing you can do with a mandolin. If you bought the A to play and because you like the tone, you may consider making some changes. Most of the following will not damage the collectibility of the instrument - if you keep all the pieces removed:

1) Replace your tuners with a set of Grover 308 N. This will give you modern machines. The last A I did this on had about five sets of screw holes. If you have the same, find out how to repair them and then drill new holes for the Grovers. Throw the old tuners in the case.
2) Pick out a cast tailpiece you like and drill holes in it to match the ones in the current tailpiece. No new holes in the mandolin. Bolt a strap button to it, then put it on the mandolin. Throw the old tailpiece in the case.
3) Put on a good adjustable bridge, but shorten the sides so the base is only three and a half inches long. This will allow the top to vibrate more and is the width of the original bridges. Throw the old bridge in the case.
3) Get a new set of frets and consider arching the fret board at the same time. Get a new nut and a set up by the best luthier you can find.
4) Try Gibson Monel (Bush) strings and D'Addario JS74S (stainless)on it.
%) DANGER - I add a strap button on the body above the neck joint. Do it carefully and realize you will be damned for it. It makes tha mandolin easier to play.

Caveat - The above changes may well be mandolin sacrilege - I will go to hell, no doubt. However, I love playing a snakehead A Jr with these modifications. It sounded great to start with, took a lot of work to play with the old frets/setup and looked poor. It sounds better now, and is much more fun to play. For $300 to $400 of changes, you get modern playability (less two highly overrated frets) and great oval hole tone.

W Drysdale

[mandocentric]

Thanks to all for your words of wisdom.

[jim simpson]

Okay, here's the nutty response. This is a paddle head, right? If so, you could remove the tuners, plug the holes, overlay some new material (ebony?) on the headstock and re-cut it to the snakehead shape. This would result into an immediate jump in value. Of course it would be a fake snakehead so forget my last statement. Is this a round hole? I guess it would have to be to pass off as a snakehead. I actually bought a junk shop guitar that sounded pretty good but I didn't like the headstock (which was snake head shaped) and did the procedure described previously to make it look like a Martin. I even changed out the gears and pick guard. I think when I sold it I ended up selling it for exactly what I had in it. Not a good business plan.

[TimPiazza]

Hey, I am pretty sure I know that '28A intimately. If this is the case, you really shouldn't need to replace the tuners at all. They're in great shape, an the instrument is all original--not something I would muck with. You might be experiencing some binding in the nut or bridge slots, as these slots might not be cut for your preferred strings. Have a really competent luthier have a look at them, and you should be in business. If there is any stickiness in the tuners, they can be removed and flushed with WD-40 and reassembled and will be as good as new.

Assuming I'm right about its providence, that A has amazing tone and it has great sustain and volume. I wouldn't change a thing on it. It sounds like a dead-on match to a '28F4 that I own and it is exceptional. Anything that you change (other than string slots) will decrease its value and will likely have very little impact on what you're already getting.

Tim

[mandroid]

with most tuners it seems coming up to pitch from flat is a given, old ones only moreso. its a 'gearlash' thing.
http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[bflat]

most of these old things are worth well over $1000 if original. i wouldn't touch a thing. just play it. you'll get more tone from practice than any of the above....

[Desert Rose]

Sorry I have to agree with a few people here.

Having been involved in restoration for thirty years and having started my career on a 1919 Gibson a, I agree that you should leave it alone and concentrate on issues that demand attention for playability and leave the tinkering out.

Appreciate it for what is or maybe sell it to someone who will

These were the values taught to me

Scott

[bmac]

Regarding the tuners... I would suggest consulting a machinist. They do a lot of restoration of worn gears, worn axles, etc.. The main difference is that on the mando the mechanics are small.

I suspect a person who repairs/restores old clocks, for instance would be able to rebuild the tuner mechanism so that it is tight and doesn't slip. Anyway the authenticity of the tuners might make this approach viable. T'aint rocket science but you may want to go this route rather than keeping the tuners as a museum piece. Anyway it is worth investigating.