PDA

View Full Version : More MK setup questions



GTG
Jan-26-2005, 1:12pm
Hello,

I have been talking with a friendly luthier-type person (the mando shop guy at Dusty Strings, Seattle; can't remember the name, but very nice and helpful) about getting some shop setup work done on my Michael Kelly F. The bridge is leaning too much, and he'll fix that, set it to the top, do a bit of work on the nut, etc.

I asked about going for the Allen tailpiece, and he said that a lot of bluegrassers are going "back" to the thinner stamped tailpieces, because the heavier ones (Allen, and others, cast metal, I think?) give better sustain, but less "pop". Any thoughts? I do like the idea of getting more sustain, but mostly want to squeeze more sound out of the mando. Yes, I know some of you are thinking fuggetit, save the cash and buy a 4-$digit mando instead, but I'm a student, and that isn't going to happen for years.

Thoughts?

-Dan

johnwalser
Jan-26-2005, 4:10pm
I have a MK Firefly Flame http://home.inreach.com/johnw/mk.html with Allen Tailpiece and Sullivan ebony bridge that is 20 months old. I have played dozens of "so called" high end instruments since (both new and used) and just haven't found anything with the combination of sustain and tone that is better than what I have. I use Thomastik-Infeld strings for the jazz I play so it probably wouldn't chop worth a hoot. If I am called upon to chop, I guess I'll take my banjolin along and give it a shot.
John

Stillpicking
Jan-26-2005, 4:45pm
I have 2 MKs an early model 'Butterfly" and I pickup a Legacy "O" early this year. The "butterfly"is more of a bluegrass instrument less sustain than the "O" but that is OK as I wanted the "O" for more old timey stuff and it works for that really well.

Here is what is on both:

replaced the original rosewood bridge with ebony, "butterfly has a Sullivan bridge and the "O" has a Cumberland radius bridge that matches the fret board radius.

Both have solid tailpieces "Butterfly" has a Weber universal and the "O" has a Traditional Allen

Nut "Butterfly" has a replacement pearl nut, the "O" still has the original one which was better than the 'Butterfly's" original.

Strings currently are Heavy TIs on both mandos, I play quite hard and volumn has not be an issue with either and I hate changing strings I get about 5 to 6 months out of the TIs if I wipe them down with "fastfret"

Both had a setup done when I first got them.

Have fun with it these are really nice mandolins and for the entry price in that range are still a good deal. I had a number of mandolins over the years and I have no plans to sell either or trade up. Remember the instrument is only 50% of the sound the other half is the style and ability of the player. Play the heck out of it and it will just get better and so will you.

steve in tampa
Jan-26-2005, 5:08pm
My 2004 Dragonfly has the Allen, and I like it. The mein thing to help the sound is to play the hell out of it. The thick finish takes a while to loosen up. Mine really opened up after playing outdoors at a festival for a few days. Humidity and campfire smoke along with about 8 hours a day took it to the next level.

GTG
Jan-27-2005, 2:28pm
Thanks for the thoughts. So it seems that everyone so far is in favor of the heavier Allen-type tailpieces, for bluegrass and everything else. Any votes for the thinner stamped ones, or did I get some bad advice? Maybe it doesn't make much difference...

Greenmando
Jan-27-2005, 2:42pm
Each mandolin has it's own voice, even MK's. Try the tailpiece, if you like it keep it or just change it back. You can resale it and recover your money. The Weber is a great tailpiece for the money. I have been using the stock tailpieces on my Gibson's but I usually leave the cover off.

mpeknox
Jan-27-2005, 2:50pm
I had an MK with an Allen tailpiece for quite a while and it seemed to have quite a bit more volume and low end than my friend's MK with the regular tailpiece. But I also played mine a LOT more than he ever played his.