View Full Version : router bit for binding
I need advice on setting up my router to do the binding. I spent a harrowing time over the weekend routing the binding channel on the octave mandolin I am building using my Dremel with a StewMac attachment. I got the job done, but not as clean as I would like. I had to cut a bit by hand to avoid chipping into the grain. I have seen photos on the web showing how a regular old router can use a simple jig/guide built of wood, but I would like to know if bit size matters and if a certain type of bit is preferrable. I would assume that the larger in diameter the bit, the faster it moves and that should be a good thing--right?
Woody--I built that jig and used a carbide router bit--straight, 1/4", 1" cutter. It worked well, except in the scroll areas. Because the top is thicker and more slanted, I couldn't maintain the depth of cut, so I did those areas by hand. I suppose I could have raised the bit to compensate, but I didn't want to experiment at that point. Dudenbostel says to take multiple passes and don't try to cut the channel to full depth in one pass.
I use a 1/4 spiral down cut bit. I also score the demensions of the channel with a purfling cutter so that the chip out stops before it gets into the face. I do 2 passes that comes nearly up to the score mark. Then I do a few passes making micro adjustments and sneak up on the score mark. A bit that I think would work even better is one like the 1/4 sprial downcut but with a very slight acute angle to counteract the tendency to come out with a channel that is slightly greater than 90 degrees. I don't know if a bit like that exists.
Hey, thanks for the advice!
This is what I needed!