Inlay questions....

[otterly2k]

sorry for the duplicate post under another topic...this is where this question should be...

Does anyone have experience with the pearl and abalone veneers that are available? How does the process compare with using MOP blanks? I assume the blanks are thicker and require a more elaborate cutting process...
they say the veneer can be cut with sharp scissors or an xacto knife.

Is is just a matter of routing shallower cavities for them? Can one still add engraved details to the veneer?

I am getting ready to build my first instrument and could use some advice.

KE

[Michael Lewis]

If you are just starting to learn inlay proceedure go with the traditional shell blanks or "abalam". The veneers you mantion are rather delicate and somewhat more dificult to deal with. You will need some shell blanks, a jeweler's saw frame, and some "piercing saw blades' (basically jewelers saw and blades). These are available from a variety of sources like Stew/Mac Guitar Shop Supply, Rio Grande Jewelry Supply, etc. Get the book by James Patterson "Pearl Inlay", it only costs a few dollars and will give you a good education regarding inlay. If you are looking for the easy way, take it to a luthier that can do it for you.

[Jim Rowland]

KE,I have to agree with Michael. The ultra thin pearl has its applications,but,all things considered,is generally more difficult to work with than regular pearl blanks or ablam of at least .050 thickness. You can cut the thin stuff with cuticle scissors or knife,but it is difficult to execute any small details. You can epoxy it to a backing of some kind and use the piercing saw a la regular pearl,but that is tricky and must be inlaid almost dead flush with the wood surface,leaving little room for sanding. You can also use superglue to fix it to backing and soak it off in a jar of acetone,then with a paper or foil backing,overlay it to the wood and build clear lacquer until you can sand or scrape it flush. It's all a lot of trouble. I've had the Patterson book for years and have found it extremely useful.
Jim

[Yonkle]

Did did the inlay on my first 3 mandolins, and thought it was confusing at first. After reading a lot on the internet I got blanks from StewMAC and also from Andy Depaule. I got a jewlers saw and X-fine fine and med blades at woodcraft suppy and went to work.
I would find a pattern I like or make my own and draw it or print it off the internet to paper. Then cut out, glue the paper to the shell blank and cut it out with a jewlers saw, clean up the edges with a fine file. Then (as mentioned above) glue the shell (light on the glue) to the headstock, let dry, then take a scrib and scratch out the borders of the inlay into the wood. Dab acetone on the glue and remove the inlay, then drimel out the outline and hog out the center and glue in place. Fill in edges with ebony glue and ebony powder #mixture and later sand flush. I was happy with all 3 of my inlays on all headstocks. The first A style was a bit bacis the 2nd much more detail and the 3rd did a Gibson style Fern inlay. I think inlay work is one of the funnest part of building, and is not as hard as it sounds.
If you don't want to mess with a jewlwers saw and cutting, you can get any pre-cut pattern or high quality Abalone and MOP from Andy Depaule. He is great to work with and you can call him and he will custom make any pattern you wish,he also has lots of pattern on his website you can print out and use to cut your own, this is what I did. #ANDYS SITE...> INLAY HERE (http://www.luthiersupply.com)

[Yonkle]

HERE is one of Andys Pre cut Ferns Inlays you can also get the pattern off his site to do your own. (No personal interest) just a happy customer. JD

[Brookside]

I second Yonkle's recommendation. If you decide you don't want to tool up to cut your own inlay, Andy is the man.

I cut my own on number one. I ordered custom designs and letters for numbers two and three. I found that I would rather spend my intrument making time practicing skills in other areas of construction like quality fretwork, binding and finishing.

Still, if cutting inlay fascinates you, you can do a good job of it the first time with the proper tools. As was said above the thicker blanks will be easier to work with. Blank material is really relatively cheap. Order up a bunch of it and practice working with it. If you don't enjoy it or you don't like the results, give Andy a call and let him take care of it. The process of inlaying wood with shell will still be your own from design to the finished product.

Good luck!

[otterly2k]

Thanks, folks, for your suggestions. I understand the basics of how the process works, but was mostly wondering if the really thin stuff is easier or harder to cut... sounds like it is actually harder, not easier....

In that case, I'll either cut my own or have someone cut my design for me. I've seen Andy DePaule's site. He's got a lot of pre-cut designs, but I'm more interested in designing my own... it's good to know he'll do custom cutting, since I may not have the time or workspace to do it myself. I've always wanted to, but given the toxicity of pearl dust and the lack of a close-off-able workspace in my house, I think having it cut will be a better option...

Does anyone have any experience engraving on pearl? It seems like it wouldn't be such a big deal, but every book says how hard and time consuming it is. what am I missing?

KE

[Michael Lewis]

Engraving pearl is easier than engraving metal in that it takes much less force, but it takes a very practiced and steady hand. If you can draw your pattern you should be able to engrave it, but it takes some practice to get it good. You need sharp gravers and a light touch to start, then a bit more pressure as the cut deepens. Too much force will chip the edge of the cut making a ragged appearance.

[Desert Rose]

In addition to my friend Mikes great advice about getting started in inlay I can highly recomend the video series by Larry Robinson for beginners and others.

They clearly shows valid techniques and his own tricks as well general inlay knowlege.

It will give you inspiration in the extreme to persue this art.

Scott