Pictures of tools you have made

[Keith Newell]

Here are three pictures of tools I made to help out on the mando making. This picture is of my side bending iron. I bought the one that is mostly advertised but realized its more for guitars so I made a new aluminum piece and mounting flange. The peice is from 7075 aluminum but has a 303 stainless steel mounting flange. The 303 ss has a heat transfer rate approx. 1/10 that of the aluminum so I figured I wouldnt burn up my gasket or wooden base. The 3 diameters really help with those F style sides.
#WORD OF WARNING TO THOSE WITH THIS UNIT.
The original is made from sand cast aluminum and thus it is pretty porous. When you use water mist on your wood as you bend it the water turns to steam and some of it gets inside your cast aluminum piece through microscopic pores. When I took it apart the ground wire was almost totally corroded off and there was corrosion inside the aluminum mandrel. Anyway there is more mass but it is smaller over all and doesnt have the dead air space inside the unit like the original and it heats up quick and doesnt work the thermostat as hard because of the mass.
Keith Newell

[Keith Newell]

This is a cool little fixture for bending the binding on F styles. There are two different shapes, one on each side with different arcs. All you do is insert bunding in slot, I use a toothpick in the locking notch to anchor it and bend around it COLD. Then take a hair dryer or heat gun to heat it. Let it cool for 20 seconds and its got a nice smooth arc.
Keith Newell

[Keith Newell]

Last picture is of a template I use to scribe the nut spacing for the strings. I build alot of similiar width necks so I made this stainless steel template that has slots the exact width for my mechanical pencil. I just lay it on the nut and scribe so I know where to start filing.
Keith Newell
http://www.newellmandolins.com

[Stanley Cox]

Hello Keith,
Thank you for this thread. I always like to see pics, and descriptions of tools and jigs that you guys and gals use to make mandolins and other stringed instruments. As a struggling new builder I like to get all the help I can.
Thanks again,
Stanley http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[TomServo]

Keith, don't give away all your secrets to your fine mandolins. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

[Gavin Baird]

Holy Smoke,
7075....probably T6...Do you think it will handle rentry?[G]....g

[Keith Newell]

I hope! Then it would be hot enough to bend like crazy for awhile http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[Jim Hilburn]

Come on, Gavin, I know you've got some cool stuff.

[french guy]

pictures of homemade tools , good idea
here is my homemade duplicarver .

[french guy]

other view

[french guy]

the system of slide

[french guy]

last pic

[french guy]

hoops ! one more

[GaryM]

Here's my bending setup. I decided to experiment so I ordered 2 one inch heating strips from the supplier...so the wood gets heat from both sides. (no burning) I think I got the temp down to 275 deg. ...but I've pushed ahead my completion date for #1 to 2009. I really admire all you builders out there!

[Chris Baird]

Here is my A-style bending setup. #It looks simple and it is, but it works wonderfully. #The turnbuckles triangulate off the dowels such that you leap frog each turnbuckle to the next dowel by slowly taking tension off one and putting it on another. #It provides a considerable amount of even and consistant backing pressure while slowly forcing the wood into the curve. #I've tested it with highly figured maple that is .130" thick, no cracks, no bumps, just perfect curve. #I've almost got the F-style version made but I will let you folks figure that one out. #http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

[labraid]

Mandoplyr, is that built into your floor? I see a conspicuous foot there http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif
That's a very nice jig.

Brian

[Darryl Wolfe]

Chris, Are you seaming your A-models at each end? Or just at the neck

[Chris Baird]

I'm standing on my work bench taking the pic, all the electonics are built under the work surface. As soon as I work the bugs out of the f-style jigs I'll probably make a dedicated universal bending table with interchangable forms using eye bolt anchors instead of the dowels.

I join at the tailpiece and (sort of) the neck end.

[craigw]

Thanks Chris! You've given me some good insight in how I'll construct my heat blanket bending set-up.

[Luthier]

Excellent!!! Half the fun is inventing new ways to carry out the operations. Kudos to you all.

[french guy]

SOS GaryM , Mandoplyr , where have you found your heating strips , I've just pass all my day today for bending a high figured maple with the usual method ( my fingers are burned ) , and see that tonight , I'm so stupid .
your gigs are amazing

[Chris Baird]

I got my heating blanket from Tom Durr. I think he has an add running in the classifieds. The componet system he has plans for work well together. I didn't, however, have any luck with his style of jigs and execution.

[french guy]

Thank you Mandoplyr , I must try to find Tom Durr ,
I must also try to find this here in France , but don't know where .

[Chris Baird]

French Guy, Add # 11325 in the classifieds.

[french guy]

Yes , just when you wrote that , I was about read the 11325
thank a lot.

[GaryM]

Thanks French Guy... My hands still get pretty hot but it works out much better for me this way. These pads still can burn the wood right through if left on for too long. I tried bending in a long jig but couldn't get it done without burning. Here's where I found the thermocouple and heat strips.
http://www.omega.com/pptst/SRMU_HEATER.html
Good luck

[french guy]

Thank for the link GaryM
What is the model you have chosen
there's 3 possible
SRMU020230 2.5Watts/in2
SRMU050230 5Watts/in2
SRMU100230 10 Watts/in2

I suppose 10W/in2
Thank again

[GaryM]

I suppose if I did it again I would get a pair of shorter "blankets" so the excess wouldn't be flapping around. The model # was SRMU100130 2.5 AMP 300 WATTS.
Looks like a higher wattage than I see on the list
I spoke to a gentleman there who was helpfull with which thermocouple to use. I had been using an old bender and element that I wired to a light dimmer!! Don't want to have my new setup inspected either!!
http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif
Chris..your set up looks great. I'm guessing that's a 2" strip? That's great it's working for you.

[Chris Baird]

Gary, get a temp controller off ebay that works for your thermocouple and blanket. I have no problems with burning the wood. I can set mine anywhere between 100 and 400 F. 275 is a good temp for maple.

[GaryM]

Thanks Chris!
I think I'll try that. It might give me a more even temp control that way. The thermocouple has a dial on it and I use a candy thermometer to get the heat set to 275deg, but the thermocouple kicks in and out so sometimes the blanket is not producing any heat for short spurts.

[oldwave maker]

Duplicating hogger made from x/y axis linear bearing frame- $25 at a rockwell surplus auction, was allegedly used in manufacture of early spaceshuttle tiles. Could hang another router on the other side to do 2 plates per whack, but who's in that kinda hurry? Sure has saved my elbow joints for the important things in life, like pickin and doin the twist......Bruce's gom back taking shape.

[Chris Baird]

I like those shims. Precision is very important.

[Gavin Baird]

Here are two items I made which I use a great deal. The Pin Router can be used in either position. ie from above or from below. The above position also allows me to do angle routing as seen on my headstock shot.
The precision sander is really that. I can adjust the angle with a high degree of accuracy...G
The first shot is the pin router in overhead position.

[Gavin Baird]

The pin router from below position. Note that the router can also be used as a fenced shaper.

[Gavin Baird]

The precision Sander..

[mandolooter]

These all are great and a treasure of info as well! Im starting my first mando here within the month and I've been tooling up slowly for the last 6 months or so. As a cabinetmaker jigs are a way of life and lifesavers at the same time! Thanks to all who have or will post pic's in the future. The big Q is...which of you will be the Loyd Loar of the early 2000's? http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[Kent Barnes]

Here's a jig I made to glue the bindings on my fingerboards. #Just apply the glue, put the binding on the side, and slide the fingerboard in the slot until it's snug. #It will hold the binding tight while the glue dries. #The bottom of the slot is covered with plastic to keep the fingerboard from sticking to the jig.


http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mandolincafe/fb_binding1.jpg
http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mandolincafe/fb_binding2.jpg

The odd shape is because I made it from a piece of scrap plywood I had lying around.

[Darryl Wolfe]

Really cool stuff guys. Here's some of my pickguard templates..not mandolins templates, but they are just the same. I try to never make a one-off guard. If you are making one, make the template first.

[Kent Barnes]

Here's my latest creation to get the rough shape of the top and back. #For those of us that can't afford a duplicator or CNC machine, this is my $35 overhead router setup. #I use it to 'stair-step' the top and back to get the basic shape. #I used it for the top of Harlan #3 and it worked great! #It's easy to adjust and control. #The last picture shows my back, ready for shaping.

http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mandolincafe/router1.jpg
http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mandolincafe/router2.jpg
http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mandolincafe/router3.jpg

[ShaneJ]

Kent I saw the top on the other thread and it looks good. So, it looks like the router is stationary. I guess you set the depth and then slide the top around -- that right? Did you start in the middle (shallowest cut), or the outside (deepest cut)? Did you mark contour lines on it for guides? Is the angle iron stiff enough to keep it from sagging?

Thanks man, and keep up the $35 or less innovations! http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[Kent Barnes]

I start in the middle (the thickest part) and work my way out to the edges (the thinnest part). I do mark graduations on the wood, and then just slide the wood around under the router. The MDF table makes a nice, smooth surface. Yes, the angle iron on the sides adds support to keep the router from moving around too much. I just adjust the router up and down, and check on scrap wood for proper depth of cut before starting on my mando wood.
I made a bracket for my shop vac hose to keep some of the chips clear. One thing to watch is to make sure the table is clean and the bottom of the wood is clear of debris. Otherwise it can mess with my measurements!

Trim router from Harbor Freight(on sale) - $20
2x4 sheet of MDF from Home Depot - $6
4' angle iron from Home Depot - $7
3' all-thread rod - $3

I'm really happy with the way it works!

[Stanley Cox]

Hey Kent,
What are the 4 notches for?
It looks like another great jig so you dont
get to spend time with the maple. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif
Stanley

[Kent Barnes]

I cut the notches in the wood to give the clamps more area for a better 'bite' when gluing the 2 pieces together. #The outside edge of the maple was only about 3/8" thick, and the clamps kept wanting to slip off when I tightened them.

[PaulD]

How close to finished size do you go with this?

Paul Doubek

[Kent Barnes]

I start with .65" in the center, and graduate down to .20" around the edge, in .05" increments. #It's actually pretty accurate! #Here's a picture of what it looks like (not my picture, but you can get the idea).

[Keith Newell]

I put a couple coats of finish on this one today and in between coats I was bored so I converted my dads old gun cabinet(homemade) that he left me when he passed away into something I would use every instrument I make.
I cut multiple 2 1/2" vents in top and bottom and covered them with super fine screen. Then I used spray adheasive and lined it with aluminum foil. Then I bought a fixture and put a double bulb adapter in it and a long cord out the back. When the thing is on it generates to much heat with 100w bulb so I went down to 75w ones. After its been on a bit if you take a thin piece of plastic wrap and hold it to the vents up top the air is blowing out and its suckin in at the bottom so I know Im getting air circulation.
I figured this is great for lacquer and I will add some of the UV flourecent (spelling?) bulb for my varnish curing in the corners later.
Cost of cabinet-free....cost of light fixture and supplies-$9.....value of getting to see the cabinet I grew up seeing in my dads gun shop for all those years now being used regularly- Priceless
Keith Newell