F4 neck length

[b.pat]

I posted this in another section but, I still don,t feel like I have enough information to make up my mind. Maybe you guys that actually put these things together can help.

Ok here's the deal. I'm having an F4 style built to match an F5 that I have. I understand that my options on neck length are: traditional [neck joins the body at the 12th fret], F5 length [neck joins boby at 15th fret], or a compromise where the joint is at the 14th.

My question is two fold.

How will the Tone and volume be affected by the different lengths?

How will resale be affected ? [is one length more desirable than the others ?]

Any and all opinions will be appreciated.

B.Pat

[SternART]

I have owned two long neck oval holes, a Doug Woodley and I still have a Lawrence Smart. I prefer the long neck for up the neck playing, jazz chords etc. The bridge does end up in a different place, and to me the sound is somewhere between an oval hole and an F5. The Woodley had a single cross brace like ol' Gibson's and the Smart is X braced. I'd say not as ol' timey sounding as an A model Gibson or old F2-4, but possibly a more modern sound. If you're really looking for that old sound, maybe a short neck is better, but for playability I prefer the long neck versions. IMO both can have a beautiful voice, but I love all the voices of the mandolin. Long necks are rarer, probably easier to sell, lots of old Gibsons available to compete with on the short necks.

[mandroid]

the 3 point with 5 neck looks great,(22C,pictures post) the top and bottom points help allow shifting the soundhole without it looking as if it were shifted, as, I think, compared to an A style oval hole when moved, to narrower body location as neck is shifted.
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