Best mandolin for a beginner

[squeally dan]

What mandolin should I start out on. I don't want to spend too much until I see how I like it. I do play other instruments (guitar, some bano), so I don't want a piece of junk. What do you guys suggest for a starting mandoiln? Whats the best value for the money? I know this question has probably been asked a million times, but I had trouble finding any info when I searched. THANKS!

[Phantoj]

How much money? I think you should get the best musical instruments you can afford... Mandolins range from $50 ebay cheapies to $150,000 Loars. So what's your range?

[merv]

For a good beginner instrument I would try the Epiphone MM-30 . The ones in the local shop all have good tone and playability at a reasonable price .

[Eugene]

Much depends upon the style of music you intend to pursue. If you're after bluegrass, you really should have an f-holed archtop (I like Weber's and Breedlove's entry-level archtops). If you want to do anything else, you should consider oval-holed and even flat mandolins.

[Darren Kern]

One thing I learned in my searches is this- almost all of the cheap imports are the same few models, with different brand names on them. #I saw a Fender next to a Carlos Robelli (sp?) and they were absolutely the same instrument, one was $50 more. #Obviously if you can spend a little bit of $$ then get a quality instrument. #If you're like me and you can't right now, the Johnson MA-120 is the one I have coming, and the Kentucky KM-150S I believe is very similar. #Both solid spruce tops instead of plywood which won't hold up as well. #I recommend going through Folk of the Wood at http://www.folkofthewood.com

I haven't received mine yet but they claim to go through a fairly extensive setup process even with these cheap mandolins, including lowering the action if necessary. #You can also hear some sound samples of their mandolins, where you will quickly learn the difference between the sound of a $200 mandolin and a $2000 mandolin, if you don't know already #http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif #

Hope it's not inconsistent with the forum rules to recommend a place like I did, I'm just trying to give Dan the benefit of the ridiculous number of hours I spent researching inexpensive mandolins.

[squeally dan]

Thanks for all the advice thus far. I really want to stay under $500. I can always upgrade later.

[Michael H Geimer]

Mid-Missourri!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I owned an Epi MM-50, and can attest that the more plain and simple Mid-Mo's blow away the imports I've owned and/or played.

It must be scroll-envy or some misplaced attachement to F-holes that keeps people from seeking out Mid-mo's.

Easy to find 'em below the $500 mark.

[squeally dan]

Wow! There are so many brands! What about the Michael Kellys?

I saw this one I could probably afford:

http://www.folkofthewood.com/page3992.htm

[squeally dan]

I'm more in to bluegrass! The Kentucky ones look nice also. In the $400-$500 dollar range is thier much difference between all these. There are a bunch of different makers.

[mandobob]

I started mando after 20+ years on guitar.
Here is my two cents;
A model dollars go further then F model.
Radiused necks feel better to me.
It's easier to buy a good sounding cheap guitar then a good sounding cheap mandolin.

[Phantoj]

I think, in the price ranges you're thinking of, you'll either get a new or used Pacific Rim mandolin or a Mid-Missouri or similar flat-top.

The Mid-Mos are nice, good sounding, etc. Unless you play in the dark, they may not be appropriate for bluegrass.

There's a fellow with Eastman mandolins that posts on here. From the looks of it, they seem to be the best and most expensive of the Chinese makes... I think MK might be Korean, or at least some of them might be...

I'm sure some of the Chinese instruments are rebadged copies of each other made in the same factory.

I think the Kentucky KM-150S for under $200 is a good value. Maybe you should get one of them, then sell it and move up to the $1000 range where you can get into some of the used American F-holes.

[Phantoj]

Even better, get a used Mid-Mo now, then trade for a $1000 bluegrass model when you get good enough to start jamming with others and feel the Mid-Mo is chop-deficient... you won't lose money on the Mid-Mo.

[Steven]

Do yourself a HUGE favor and dont buy from FOTW.The so called "set-up" on my first mando, bought from them consisted of slopping some wax on the thing and wiping about half of it off,bridge was no where close to being placed correctly for intonation,strings touching the frets.All this and they only charged me nearly $100 more than First Quality would have.A newb is an easy mark.Oh yea and they dont bother answering thier E-mail either.I wouldnt buy used food from them.

[Bob A]

As you indicate you are not a "beginner" at music, I'd suggest you consider two points. First, you're musically sophisticated and will not be happy with an entry level instrument. Second, if you choose not to pursue mandolin, you will have a much easier time selling a quality instrument that you purchased "used" or "vintage"; there is a depreciation hit. (If you want to trade up, being smitten with the pleasures of the mandolin, this argument also applies).

It is possible to get a very decent instrument, but you might be advised to consider a higher price point. It's more money now, but will bring you both a better instrument and a better deal down the road. Always try to buy a better instrument than you need; you will quickly grow into it.

[mandoJeremy]

Hey squeally, I think that is a good deal on the Michael Kelly plus they don't sound bad at all, or at least the few I have played didn't. Of course, your best bet would be something you could play before you buy and there have been some horror stories from Folk of the Wood.

[Darren Kern]

Well I'm glad a couple of you guys have added some parity to my post about Folk of the Wood. They seem very cool and helpful to me, and have responded to my e-mail questions a couple of times. But, nothing surprises me these days.

[Michael H Geimer]

Bob A is offering wise council. I came into the mandolin with 18yrs of guitar under my belt, and I quickly (3-4mos) outgrew my MM-50.

After 'going big' and getting a Weber , I traded the Epi in for my Mid-mo M-11.

... but I won't be getting rid of that 'beginner instrument' anytime soon. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[ShaneJ]

I'd say get as high a quality used instrument as you can afford. More important than tone or volume or looks for a beginner, IMHO, is playability. Find out if it is set up properly (easy to play action, proper bridge placement/intonation, and perfect bridge base fit to the top), and if it is not, get a setup done by somebody who knows what they're doing. You'll be better off spending $75-100 on a setup than "extra" mandolin, if necessary. If you buy the right used one, it'll already be setup.

If it is too hard to play, you won't enjoy it as much and won't progress as well. If it is easy to play, you'll learn faster and progress faster. THEN you'll be hooked, and you'll be looking for every excuse you can find to buy a better, more expensive instrument. You'll probably get scroll envy and develop an incurable case of MAS (Mandolin Aquisition Syndrome).

On second thought, get a ###### mandolin and make sure it's set up so bad that it's almost unplayable. Safe yourself while you still can!!!http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[8ch(pl)]

Look in the classifieds for a Sterling mandolin, listed 3 Oct, being sold by Tomas Flood. $175.

[phillyfred]

Mid-Missouri-------atleast try it before you buy another

[dwc]

Personally, I had a fine experience with FoftheW. I ordered my first mando from them at like $150 or something and the setup was fine. Actually, in all honestly it was pretty good. The thing with them is, they seem really geared to first time buyers and I think they promise way more than they are capable of delivering. I was sort of seduced by the trade-up policy, but when I tried to trade up, I found it difficult to even get someone to talk to me. Make sure you read all of the fine print on the policies page. Actually, I have never met anyone who has successfully traded up for full value. If anyone has been successful, please let me know what you did. Anyway, bottom line is, my experience was good, even without the trade up. I had to go elsewhere for higher end instruments, but no big deal; I probably would have anyway.

[Br0ce]

If it is any consolation:

My first mandolin was a Michael Kelly. I bought it thinking that I had to get a mandolin with F-holes and a scroll in order to play bluegrass. After two years I sold it and bought a used Mid-Mo M4 from the classifieds. I cannot tell you how much happier I am now. With the Michael Kelly I just could not hear the notes as well, I think it may have something to do with the finish on it. It is THICK. Any way I now can really hear the notes clearly and crisply, it seems like the whole top emanates sound. IT IS LOUDER THAN THE MK. No it really doesn't bark chords when I chop but neither did the MK. And truthfully most of the playing I do is by myself where barking chords are just not that important. One other consideration: The vibe of getting something handmade by a fellow musician in the U.S.A. is something that you should not under-estimate. It is real. I feel it every time I even think about playing. And every-time I open the case it seems to glow... Just like the very first time I laid eyes on her.

Sorry, guess I got caught gushing... Time to go play another tune! Good luck.

[fatt-dad]

I have some mandolins for sale at me web page HERE (http://home.comcast.net/~fatt-dad/mando4sale.html). Email me at fatt-dad@richmond.com if you are interested.

f-d

[squeally dan]

Can anyone be more specific. What would be my best bet for $500? Can I get a good mando for that amount? Anyone else use Michael Kelly? THANKS! YOu guys are extremely helpful.

[dwc]

In the relm of flattop oval A style, Elderly has a new Mid Mo M-1 for aprox 450 w/ gigbag and they ship for free. #They also have a Webber y2k4 for a little over 600 I think. #FoftheWood has a used M-11 for 425 w/ gigbag. #There is a used Mid Mo #M-1 on the classified here right now for like 350. #I'm not pushing Mid Mo, but they are nice. #Mass Street music has a Mid Mo 0 for 384. #If you want an import "carved" top A, FoftheW lists prices on Johnsons and Kentuckys and probably other brands as well. A used Japanese Kentucky A might be a good choice. The Kentucky fs from Japan are pretty well regarded but I don't know if that holds for the As.#If you want prices on Fs maybe someone else can chime in as it is not really my area.

[Eric F.]

There's a Mid-Mo M-1 in the classifieds for $350 that includes some instructional material. I believe I was the original owner of that mandolin. It had a very sweet sound. I can't imagine a better instrument to start out on near that price. I'm tempted to buy it back, frankly. If you feel you simply MUST have an f-hole mandolin, I think a new Kentucky 250 from Elderly Instruments would be OK. Elderly does a good setup, and the 250 is all solid wood. I don't think it has the tone of the Mid-Mo, but it does have f-holes, if that's what you want. I would not spend more to get a higher end Kentucky, but the 380 has been spoken of highly by some on the board. I think it's probably just the luck of the draw with Kentucky - some sound all right and some sound like dirt, in my experience, and it has little to do with the price or model number.

[Jaded]

If I were starting out again, I'd probably invest in the cheapest playable mandolin you can find to get started on and put the rest of the money towards a savings account to get at least something along the lines of a used A9 or better. Otherwise, I think you'll quickly outgrow your first mando and end up with something that doesn't have a lot of resale value.

I started on a Breedlove Quartz, which was a real nice sounding instrument for the price, these sometimes sell used at the upper end of your limit, but for bluegrass I'd probably go with the A9 instead.

I've heard some MKs that sounded decent and you can probably get one used in your price range, but I think a used Weber, Gibson, or Breedlove A model will get you more mandolin for your money.

[Dioptase]

Another Vote for Mid Missouri. I bought a mid mo as a traveller, but find myself playing equally as often as my Gibson at home. Is it as good as the Gibson? Well, no. But it's certainly enjoyable to play and to hear. For the price, it can't be beat, and you're spending your money on a handmade American instrument.
Micah

[squeally dan]

I do kinda want the F model. I have to admit its a corny preference thing. I just like the look.

[squeally dan]

Ok, if I want an F-style, would something like this be good:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....me=WDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10179&item=3752703635&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW)


What about the Bean Blossom or if I could get another Morgan Monroe for around $500? Would I be better off getting a Kentucky F-model? Is $400-$500 too much to pay for a Kentucky? Sorry about all these questions. I don't want to spend too much, but I want something playable, & something that will make me want to play.

[8ch(pl)]

Athough I posted earlier recommending you look at the Sterling, if you have $500 a Mid Missouri would be my choice. A second hand one will be worth what you paid for it down the road if you upgrade.

I started with junk mandolins. I wish I had put out more money to start with to get a decent mandolin.

I have a 9 year old Sammick A, but I would not buy a new one now, it is not the same quality. Mine is very nice. I also have an M-4 Mid Missouri which I love.

[Phantoj]

It's okay to like what you like, even if that's an instrument that's inferior in sound quality, build quality, or value. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif

If you want a cheap Asian F-style, one will probably be as good as the other. The heavy hitters (KY, MM, MK) may give you more name recognition in a resale situation.

The Mid-Mo is a better instrument, but I would never encourage someone to buy something they just plain didn't want to.

Dang fine job you folks are doing on this thread! Now I'm back to attempting to set up a lovely Galveston POS. Squeally your getting some sage advice.........

[Michael H Geimer]

" I don't want to spend too much, but I want something playable, & something that will make me want to play. "

Hold those thoughts in you head, and slowly read back through this thread ...

Then enjoy your choice, whatever it may be!

[dwc]

I've responded to this post a couple of times because I was/am in more or less the same boat. #I don't know why it is, but some brands and models of mandos I've played tend to have a more consistant timbre. #Although they may vary in tonal color from instrument to instrument, the defining timbre of the make and model remain consistant or perhaps it is more accurate to say distinctive(of that make and model). To me, a Weber Hyalite petty much sounds like a Webber Hyalite, for instance. #I can notice small diferences in "color" from instrument to instrument but the sound is pretty consistant, distinctive, but consistant. #I find the same consistancy of timbre in other brands such as Mid Mo, Breedlove and Rigel, all of which I believe to have adistinctive timbre.
There are other brands and models which are less consistant. #For instance, I have a Johnson 120 that sounds pretty darn good, but most of the others I have played are less full. #This variation seems, to my ear, more exagerated in the less expensive F models. #You can get an excellent instrument if you hunt around. #
# # So, my advice is, if you want a F, go somewhere where you can try out the MKs, the MMs, the Eastmans, The Olympias, etc. #Then you can pick the best sounding one of the bunch. #It may be counter intuitive to travel to buy a less expensive instrument, but it will increase your happiness tremendously because you will know you have personally #selected the instrument that sounds right to you.

[squeally dan]

I'll have to look and see where I could go. Nashville might be my best bet.

I have been looking at the following 3 models:
1. Morgam Monroe MMS-2
2. Michael Kelly legacy solid
3. Kentucky Km-675

Any feedback about these specific models would be greatly appreciated. The Michael Kelly sounds nice, but I haven't played any of them.

[Dru Lee Parsec]

I really want to stay under $500. I can always upgrade later.

Stay away from Johnson! I've had nothing but problems with them. A Kentucky mandolin is generally a better brand, but if you can move as high as $500 then you can probably find a Michael Kelly in that range. The difference between a $500 MK and a $200 Johnson is unbelievable. In fact, a young friend of mine just bought a Johnson A Style that's so aweful it's unplayable. We're going to bring it back this weekend and try to get his money back.
He's 13 and he used his entire year's worth of allowance to buy a mandolin and when he shows it to me the neck is so warped that 3 frets in a row play the same note. And there's no truss rod.

So avoid Johnson. Cheap garbage is still garbage.

Morgon Monroe mandolins are also decent instruments for the price. I think they have some instruments in your price range.

[Lee]

At Gruhns I played an F type Rover that really floored me with decent sound, and a very good playing neck/fretboard. It felt solid and even the extension was scalloped. Probably these are hit ot miss like a kentucky but for $375 I was astonished what you could get. If Squeally has a credit card he could purchase two and return the lesser one and probably do pretty well.

[dwc]

I've actually played 2 Rovers, one was ok, one was not. #They were both heavy with high action, more like trying to pick a cello. #I've played two Kentucky Fs, both sounded thin to me. #I played an Olympia that was pretty good, although I had never heard of them. #I have a Washburn dealer in town and played a bunch of them, they were all ok, but I have read some bad things on the forum about sinkage. #The only other thing is, I've played a Fender 62SE that was actually pretty nice for the cash (less than 500). #Not a traditional F, but not an A. #Looks like a mini strat. #Sounds ok acoustic and pretty decent, even borderline stageworthy plugged in. #These are just my thoughts on the mandos I've played in this price range, like I said, I have been shopping in this very same price range, albeit without a lot of success.

[flairbzzt]

If you're going to go with one of those three, I suggest you look for a higher model Morgan Monroe than the mms-2. Check out Banjobarn. Their service to me has been outstanding. They handle the MK's as well. And the Bean Blossoms. Have you looked at the Bean Blossom b200 (natural finish)? I just sold one that would fit the bill.

[neal]

Squeally, please don't be tempted by the scroll this early. #It's a huge mistake. #Read back all the threads here. #Do yourself a favor. #This is my humble opinion. #Maybe not so humble, but my opinion anyway. #

If you have money to burn, go ahead. #But send me a few bucks for the advice first.

[squeally dan]

One more question and then I promise I will leave this topic alone. Just say I was set on being a big goober & I just have to get and F-style because I think they are so dang cool loking, which of the following would be my best option: a used Korean Kentucky 675 or a used Michael Kelly Dragonfly? Help! Thanks for all the feedback!

[squeally dan]

Ooops! That should have been a Kentucky KM675 or a Michael Kelly Firefly!

[neal]

If you have to get the F, play both and choose, it's a horse apiece. If you can't play both, well there's gonna be about 29 more answers for either.

[Dixieland]

When my 11 yr. old son wanted a mando, I wanted as good as I could get for my money, for I found out
the hard way with my guitar experience a couple of years ago (the cheaper they are the harder they are to
fret & play). So, thanks to many here at Mandolin Cafe I bought a Kentucky 150S, The only one I could
find in stock was in a store 2hrs. away. I went & bought it & asked was it set up for easy play; He said it
was but,the action was a personal thing & this was the was the way he set up his. After 1yr. the mando
was played very little, it just was tough on my finger tips,using the thumbwheels on the bridge I lowered
the action enough that the G string would buzz a little when attacked hard; still the fretting was painful on
the fingers & I have been playing my guitar 1hr a day for 2yrs. #so I have calluses. Finally, I removed the
nut, sanded it down some & wow! #Now I'm in business! This thing now plays as easy as my Seagull Folk
guitar! #The mandolin has now become addictive, I can't put it down for long. The mandolin is so much
louder than the guitar. So, I would highly recommend the Kentucky 150S for an entry level mando, but
unless it is set-up properly you'll be no better off than having a $99.00 model. #Thanks again to all here at
Mando Cafe for the tips & advice

[fatt-dad]

Well, it's not $99.00, but for a little more than $200.00 I have both a Japanese Kentucky KM-180s and a Korean Kentucky KM-160s for sale on my web page. Check here (http://home.comcast.net/~fatt-dad/mando4sale.html) and follow links to whatever you want to look at (the others are for sale too).

Fatt-dad

[Dioptase]

Squeally Dan,
I just want to encourage you once again like so many others to at least try the Mid Missouri before you buy another instrument in the price range. I recently sold my MK Firefly after I purchased a Mid-Mo M1. Even as I was trying to sell my MK I was advising against their purchase. Compared to the Mid-Mo, I found the sound and playability to lack. What does scroll envy count for when the scroll it's attached to is a cheap asian made instrument?

The best advice of all is to try several and buy what you really like. Maybe you'll like the MK or MM better, but it's always best to try out a range of instruments.
Micah

[Jaded]

Trust me, I understand the lure of the F and I don't think there's anything wrong with it, they are dang cool. But it would still be my advise to buy something playable to start on and save up your money until you can afford a good quality used F model, rather than investing in a cheap F model now.

However, if you ignore all of this advise, I'd say go with the MK. In my experience they are consistently better than the MMs and Kentuckys.

[squeally dan]

I'm looking at an MK on E-bay. I can't resist.

[bjc]

Hello squeally,

I too did not want to spend much when I jumped into the mando world. And I wish I had spent more. I would agree with one of the previous post that said it is easier to get a decent cheap guitar than a cheap mando that sounds good. A lot of the choices that have been mentioned would be good. It really depends on what YOU like. I think most of us found out by playing on our first mando. But I would buy as much mando as you can.
Now for my experience at FOTW. The set-ups are non-exsistant. My mando came with dead strings. You can not do a proper set-up (if one was even attempted)with dead strings. They were nice to me, but once I started to raise some issues the responses stopped coming.
I would suggest going to a music store---if there are any near you (but a road trip might be nice)just to get an idea of what is out there and what YOU like.
Now, you'll probably change your mind after you've been playing for a while...tee hee
Still the best thing to do is to get one in your hands and start playing. Pretty soon you'll get that tingling and have to buy another one...and you'll be back
:-)
Good to have you aboard squeally...

[bjc]

And I play an MK Legacy O and can say in all honesty I love it. However, I have never had the pleasure of playing a Mid-Mo...
The one thing you should know is that (I've heard) the basic differences in the MK's are the finishes...so the expensive one should play very much like the higher $$$ ones...I did a side by side in a music store recently and from my experience I'd say that my theory is relatively solid.
[I]

[Kent Black]

Hey Squeally Dan,
I was in your place back in the summer and went a played different MM and other stuff but was stuck on the MM and got a nice MMS-3. I will be getting rid of it and get a Mid-Mo soon. Drive up to Nashville and look and try before you buy, you can hear the difference for yourself and yes the F looks cool.

Kent