Tru-oil over Lacquer?

[Bill Moore]

I'm repairing a broken peg head scroll. I've re-glued the scroll with hide glue and now need to touch up the finish along the break where the finish cracked. The original finish was lacquer, but unfortunately I don't have any lacquer. So, I'm wondering if it would be safe to use a bit of Tru-oil over the lacquer. Anyone know if this would work?

Thanks!
Bill

[resophil]

Forget that idea!

Remember that Tru-Oil was developed as a gunstock oil and relies on soaking into the wood in order to protect it. In fact, if you read the fact sheet for Tru-Oil, you'll find that it's about 50% solvent, in order to allow it to soak into the grain well.

It won't be able to soak into a lacquer finish, and you'll end up with a sodden mess where it soaks into the cracks, but not anywhere else.

If you insist on messing about with Tru-Oil, use it as it was intended, start with bare wood. If you want to touch up lacquer, buy a can and learn to do drop-fills or to spray new topcoats.

[Billybones]

Deft makes some brushing lacquer which I have used successfully to drop fill in cases like yours. You can leave a small amt out in a jar lid to slightly thicken before dropping in place to speed up the fill. Build it up with several applications and wait as long as you can before leveling and bring back the polish required. Good luck!

The Deft comes in a qrt size so if you can find a smaller can of lacquer-mo betta

[Bill Moore]

Hey guys, thanks for the feedback. Just what I needed to know. I've finished several banjo necks and a guitar using Tru-oil with very good success so I was familiar with its use. I just wasn't sure about using it to drop-fill over lacquer.

I just checked, my local Home Depot carries Deft brushing lacquer. I'll be stopping on my way home.

I seem to remember reading somewhere that the wait time before leveling should be something like two to three weeks. Does that sound right?

Thanks again!
Bill

[Dale Ludewig]

As far as the waiting time goes, it depends on the product. I'd certainly do the same to a test piece as I'm doing to the actual workpiece before deciding. One thing about lacquer: it continues to shrink for a long time. But at some point you must decide when enough is enough. Drop filling is good. If you learn to be careful, you can fill some little voids with superglue.
As far as coating the whole surface, I'd be very hesitant to brush on lacquer. In fact, I simply wouldn't. Find a spray can of lacquer. And make sure the surface is very clean. By the way, are you positive the original finish is lacquer? Can't be too careful.

[Bill Moore]

Thanks for the reply Dale. I was concerned about the finish composition too, so I used the method for testing it that Frank Ford suggested on his website by using a q-tip with just bit of acetone. It reacted just like Frank described so I proceeded.

Since this is just a finish crack I'm fixing, I didn't want to mess with brushes or spray cans. So, I used a tiny bit of Deft brushing lacquer applied with a toothpick to the crack. The can says it can be re-applied after two hours which seemed fast to me, but after only an hour the first fill had shrunk noticeably. I waited 2 hours and did a second application. I'll give it a few days, check it, and go from there.

I checked out your website, Dale. You build some beautiful mandolins.

Thanks,
Bill