Dremel direction when cutting binding slot?

[HogTime]

I've started to cut the binding slot on my F-style (nail biting time). I'm using a Dremel tool and the Siminoff guide.

When cutting, the tool wants to move easily in one direction and harder in the other. I chose the harder direction for more control and less chance of it getting away from me. However, my Dremel burned out after about 12" of routing.

I doubt the direction caused the burnout, but what direction is "right"?

Thanks,

[TDMpicker]

I hold mando body in my lap (left hand bracing) and hold the dremel in the right hand pulling it slowly
toward me. The router bit is turning clockwise and cutting into the wood as the tool is pulled forward.

[amowry]

Here's a diagram I made when this question came up a few years ago. I can't seem to find the old thread, though. Basically, you are routing in whatever direction is least likely to tear out the wood. A precaution-- have of these cuts will be climb cuts, meaning you'll be cutting *with* the direction of the spinning bit. Climb cuts are inherently dangerous, because the router tries to pull itself through the wood, so make certain you are always in control.

[Lefty Luthier]

A bit of advice based on several disasters; Use a spiral 1/8 dia. bit, not those straight ones sold by Stew-Mac. I always cut pulling the cutter towards me when using the Siminoff style guide. The risky area is where you are cutting directly across grain like near the tail and on the delicate tips over the point guards.

[Stephanie Reiser]

I've used the Dremel for a long time for both guitar and mandolin binding ledges, and used a route as Andrew shows us. The direction works well. But I really dont care for this system, so I have started cutting my binding ledges by hand with a Sloan purfling cutter. I know, I know, it's slow. But I just hate those wood chewing dremel routers for that particular job.

[amowry]

I should say I don't use a Dremel for this either, after trying it once years ago. I use a router in a router table, with a downcut spiral bit. The Dremel will work in a pinch, but take your time and make several passes of increasing depth.

[HoGo]

I also do it like Andrew. The points are sometimes lottery especially on spruce. Even when routed in multiple passes sometimes the router bit will chip avay the tip.
I routed two manolins few days ago and in the area near centerline of back I lost full concentration of the job (you know after a hard day mind goes it's own direction) and the bit catched the wood pulled a small chip from the back. I'll have to fit and glue in small piece of maple from cut-offs to repair the damage. I used Dremel on first few mandolins and you have to be even more carefull not to cut too much at once. At least three passes to get there and one final to cleanup the lines. I like the final cut all around the body in one move (except in point areas) to remove any marks of starts of cuts at the bouts.

[Geoff B]

I always feed the wood against the spin of the blade, if that makes sense. I used the dremel on several instruments before I had room for a router table, which I use now. I avoid the climb cut at all costs, and when I do it is for the smallest bite and gets my absolute attention. I had a friend rout the pad of her finger-tip off doing a climb cut a year ago, freaky stuff!

As for the dremel burning out, you were probably taking too big of a bite, or didn't have the speed all the way up (I did that once and that's what burned mine out!). Slow and steady, take several passes, wear eye protection and good luck!

[dunwell]

Question for the router table folks. How are you controlling this? I have pondered it but can't visualize how it is done. With a guitar I can understand, but with a mandolin where the sides and points are every which-way plus with the arched top and back and the rise at the scroll, how do you get a nice even vertical cut that isn't too deep, etc. Any photos of your router table jigs/jigs and a bit more detail would be appreciated.

Alan D.

[amowry]

Alan, here's a thread that has some good photos. I think they're pretty much self-explanatory. The key for me is using the spool clamps to keep the whole thing level.

http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36418&highlight=binding+router+table

[dunwell]

Bueno! Thanks for the link Andrew. I knew the spool clamp trick but couldn't figure the part at the router head. Clever that.

Thanks again,
Alan D.