Tuning the mandolin

[bobz]

Hi everybody,
Could someone please tell me what octave the F5 mandolin is tuned to? I have a Seiko chromatic tuner that I will be using to string up my mandolins in the white very soon, and as I`m not a player, I don`t know what octave they are tuned to. I`ve included some photos of wooden tuner bushings I`ve turned on my wood lathe to allow me to fit the tuners and be able to string the instrument up. I`m using Shaller tuners which have knurled bushings. I only want to insert these once when the instrument is finished. How do you builders out there string your mandos in the white? Do you leave the bushings in? I feel it`s better to spray finish the peghead with no bushings in as it`s easier to sand the face of the peghead flat between coats. I`d also like to know why the strap button (endpin) has to be held with a taper. I`ve made my own endpins this way, but I can`t see the sense of these as they could come loose with disaterous results for the mandolin. Why can`t these instruments be fitted with a wood screwed pin? Very grateful for some answers to these questions.

[sunburst]

Well, my old Conn Strobotuner shows the G to be in octave 3, the D & A in octave 4, and the E in octave 5.

If your bushings fit well and you put them in, take them back out, and spray the instrument, the bushings won't go back in unless you ream the finish out of the holes.
You can't sand the peghead between coats with the bushings in.

The strap doesn't have to be held by a tapered pin, it's just tradition. You can use a screwed in strap button as some prefer.

Nice endpins! I used to turn my own 'til I found out I could buy real nice ones for less than $2.50.

[Rob Grant]

Actually, I leave the bushings in because I don't apply finish to my ebony components (e.g.: peghead veneers and fretboard). I use f.p. on my mandos, but I have always masked off the veneers and board with any of the spray on finishes. After the instrument has its final finishing coat applied, I rub tung oil, orange oil or an equivalent into the veneers and board.

With end pins I make up a small brass bushing with an internal machine thread and a course external wood thread. I install the bushing in the end block. I then make a fancy brass knob that threads into the bushing. It's a bit of extra work, but very secure. Attached photo shows the strap knob and part of the embedded bushing behind the t.p.