Help with Neck

[ronlane3]

Well, I finally took the plung and removed the finish from the neck of my F-9. Now, do I need to put something on the neck to protect it, or can I leave it as is and it will be just fine?

Ron Lane

[Chris Baird]

Tung oil.

[Luthier Vandross]

I'd use shellac, I'd wipe it on, and steel wool that.

If you use tung oil, the next guy down the line might want to kill you.

http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif


M -possible next guy down the line-

[Chris Baird]

A light tung oil varnish has been used successfully on violin necks for as far back as recorded history goes.

[fidlmaker]

A well proven procedure for finishing violin necks works equally well on mandos. The bare wood is dampened with water, allowed to dry completely, and then the fuzz taken off with something like a 3M "extra fine" sanding sponge or 320 wet-or-dry. This is repeated 2 more times which insures that moisture will never again raise the grain, finished or not. Be careful with steel wool, or un-backed sandpaper for that matter, as enough rubbing will start to produce a rippled surface on a figured neck due to the varying grain orientation.

Next, tung oil is rubbed onto the surface, allowed to "soak in" for a minute (not much longer) and then rubbed off completely as though polishing the bare wood. One or two more coats like this, separated by a couple of hours, will give a lasting, polished finish that has a nice feel for the player.

By the way, if you ever did want to remove tung oil, a little persistent rubbing with acetone will take it off (as well as any other finish in the vicinity).

Martin

[Chris Baird]

That is exactly how I do it. It feels a little rough at first but after a couple months it is very smooth and fast.

Welcome to the board Martin.

[Jim Hilburn]

The one time I removed the lacquer from a neck, I used Tru-Oil to seal it. Seems to have lasted pretty well, although I haven't seen it for a while.

[Flowerpot]

There's nothing wrong with Tru-oil, but it will feel more like lacquer. Tung oil will feel much more like bare wood, as it penetrates the surface and does not build up. I've done both, and prefer the tung oil for a fast non-sticky neck.

[duuuude]

Did the same to my F-9 and gave it a few light coats of tung oil and it seems just fine.
http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/cool.gif

[Luthier Vandross]

-makes note in book-

'...people don't care about refinishing later...'

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M

[Michael Lewis]

Another good one Miles! http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif


I have tried several finishes and oils and they can work, but the best finish on the neck is shellac. Very thin, just french polish it a couple times and you are good to go, and it is easy to touch up if needed. The preperation is the key, and I agree with raising the grain a few times but opt for finer sanding. Go through the grits to 1000 grit and you will be amazed at the depth of figure and slick feel.

[Luthier Vandross]

Yes, that sounds smooth, protective, and easy!

;)

M

[Dolamon]

On the few that I've done - rather than using sandpaper after feathering (using water to raise the grain), I use a small scraper with a very small burr. I use very little pressure, do it slowly and can feel the raised wood "pop off". Often the scraper is a Gem razor blade with a touched up edge. I've used light coatings of TruOil or Tung oil. The Tung Oil seems to feel a bit stickier in really high humidity.