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ukgreg
Aug-19-2009, 11:30am
Hello everyone.

I'm an absolute beginner that's considering taking up the mandolin. I've been reading this and many other web sites on the topic, and I've also contacted some retailers, both local and online, to get opinions and prices. I think I'm getting close to a decision, but I'd like to get feedback from the group before I pull the trigger.

There's an online store relatively close to where I live (suburban Atlanta) that also has a physical storefront. They're offering a Kentucky KM-150 for $249.00 as part of the following package:

1 Kentucky Mandolin KM-150
1 Padded Mandolin Bag
1 Lickety Split Mandolin Book & DVD
1 Chromatic Tuner
3 PICKS
Free Setup And Free Shipping
This Mandolin Is Setup And Tuned Before It Is Shipped

This is about the most money I can afford to spend right now, and ideally I'd spend less, but I've gathered from my research that this model is about as low as you can go and still be relatively satisfied. I'll also mention that my first love with mandolin music is bluegrass, which suggests that I should go with an F model instead of an A model, but again, finances come into play, and right now I wonder if the difference between an F and an A would be lost on me.

As I mentioned, I'm an absolute beginner - I have no experience playing any musical instrument. A mandolin seemed to be a good place to start, because I love the sound, it seems to be a relatively less expensive initial investment than other stringed instruments, and it's portable.

Any advice you're willing to provide is very much appreciated. If there's any other information I should share, please also let me know. (I intentionally didn't provide the name of the retailer because I didn't want this to come off looking like an ad for them, but I can certainly provide it if asked.)

Thanks again,
Greg

stratton7584
Aug-19-2009, 12:04pm
I have a kentucky and i love it, just make sure that it's set up right and not set up factory!

terzinator
Aug-19-2009, 12:04pm
I'm a mandolin novice, too, but I've gleaned enough wisdom here to offer this: for the same price point, you'll get much more value from an A-style than from an F-style.

Tonewise, they should be pretty much the same.

For a first mandolin, I'd definitely suggest getting an A-style.

I'd also probably try to get one used, if you can. You'll also get more value that way. (And if you don't enjoy it, you can sell it and not lose much.)

My first mandolin was a Mid-Missouri M2 (Now called Big Muddy.) You can get a really nice example of one of these used for around $300. (That's what I sold mine for.) If that's at the outer edges of your finances, try to think of it as money in the bank.

The other option is to find a blemished one... after I sold my Mid-Mo, I bought a really nice Kentucky 855 on ebay for $495. It had a few finish blems, but was otherwise perfect. You can get a great deal that way, and get much more instrument for your money.

Have fun! It's addictive!

Keith Wallen
Aug-19-2009, 12:11pm
Hey UKGREG - I am not very knowledgable on the different mandolins in that price range but the one piece of advice I usually give is to make sure it has a truss rod. Without that you are limited in set up. This allows you to straighten the neck up if needed without having to do major changes. Hopefully more knowledgable folks will jump in and help you out.

Folkmusician.com
Aug-19-2009, 2:21pm
Hi Greg,

This may just confuse matters, but here we go...

Setup can mean all sorts of different things and the vast majority of time, important steps are being left out or not done well. Things like intonation, while being critical, are minor steps compared to other work that is needed.

Having regularly dealt with this particular model, here is what to look for or ask...

How well are the frets seated? will there be any movement if I push on them hard enough? Yep, this is a standard problem with most all of the lower priced mandolins and it is something you would never think to ask about until you have seen it on a regular basis. First off, loose frets can't be leveled, secondly they kill your tone.

Will the frets be level? They don't come all that level from the factory, so if the dealer is not leveling them, the answer is surely NO. Also see problem one.. Until the frets are seated well, they can't be leveled.

Are the frets dressed at least reasonably well (preferably better than "Reasonably")? No sharp edged, big rough flat spots, etc...

How is the string spacing at the nut and bridge? Don't assume these are properly spaced from the factory. They are often not.

How well if the bridge foot going to match the top?
How will the action be at the nut?
How much relief will there be in the neck?
Will the truss rod have enough adjustment to put more relief if needed? This is another common one... If the truss rod is not installed correctly, there may not be enough adjustment range. I have not seen this on the Kentucky's lately.

What will the action be set to at the 12th fret? Can it run lower if you are not an agressive player?

The list goes on, but the above things are important and most are something you can verify.

Keep in mind that the above setup issues are not unique to Kentucky or this model. In fact, Kentucky is better than most as is from the factory. :)

allenhopkins
Aug-19-2009, 2:29pm
Here's (http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48050) a good thread on the KM-150. Gets pretty high marks as a starter instrument. I'm a bit confused: doing a Google search, there seem to be both a KM-150 that's plywood, and a KM-150S that's solid wood. However, most of the sellers offering the KM-150 (without the "S") list it as "solid wood," so I don't know if there are still two KM-150 models. Solid wood, maple for back and sides and spruce for the top, is preferable to plywood.

However, to learn on, the solid/plywood issue is less central than whether the mandolin is well set up and easily playable. I'd second the recommendation that you have the set-up at least looked at by a shop that does repairs and set-ups. It may be OK "out of the box," but an on-line retailer isn't going to do any adjustments for you, even at their "brick and mortar" store, so you'd probably benefit from having a pro set-up person take a look at it. When they say "the mandolin is set up and tuned before it is shipped," I feel a surge of skepticism. Sounds to me more like, "we don't intend to do anything more than take it out of the shipping box and sell it to you."

Also, as a learner and first-time buyer, you'd get little benefit from the extra cost of an F-style instrument. When you get good and want to look more "bluegrass," then you can plunk down the additional hundreds for the scroll and points.

The KM-150 has a truss rod (or at least a truss rod cover). Kentucky instruments are generally well-received, seen as the "class" of the low-priced, student-grade mandolins, and not as subject to manufacturing glitches as some other brands.

HarveyB
Aug-19-2009, 3:36pm
I bought a 150s about a year ago for my first mandolin and musical instrument. It has served me well and I do recommend it. And as Allen has stated the more you play the better you'll understand what your next instrument should have, what sound you might want.

Cheers,
Harvey

Folkmusician.com
Aug-19-2009, 3:55pm
Kentucky recently dropped the "S" off of all their models. If I recall the S was added when they first moved production to China. I could be wrong on that though.

Up until recently, there was a KM-140 (all laminated), a KM-140-S (Solid top) and the KM-150-S (all solid). The 140 was discontinued, then shortly after, they dropped the "S" off the KM-140-S, so the newest KM-140 does have a solid top. Are we confused yet? :)

As far as I know, every KM-150 was all solid and has a truss-rod.

I have seen just about all the low-end stuff at what time or another (I sell a lot in this price range). There is nothing that even comes close to the KM-150 at the price point.

ukgreg
Aug-19-2009, 7:37pm
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I found a local store that carries the KM-150. I'll get in touch with them tomorrow, and keep you posted.

Thanks again,
Greg