View Full Version : KM170 vs KM340
Hey I'm a complete beginner and was looking to buy my first mandolin. Heard universal great things about Kentuckys. These two were in my price range, 340 is discontinued I guess but what are the other differences between the two? Both were prices around $285 that I found. Appreciate the help
Eric F.
Apr-14-2009, 5:28pm
The 340 was laminated or maybe had a solid top with laminated back and sides. The 170s are solid wood and oval holes. The 340 was f holes. Honestly, the 170s should be better.
Folkmusician.com
Apr-14-2009, 6:38pm
I'm with Eric. The KM-340S did not sound too bad considering the laminated woods, but I would go with the 170 series.
The KM-340S had a solid top and Laminated back and sides. There were at least some KM340 models that also had a laminated top as well. I recall something about the factory making a mistake and using a laminated spruce top, so they just sold them off as KM-340 models. I am pretty sure this was just before production moved from Korea to China. Kentucky has added and dropped the S on various model numbers, and there might have been KM-340 (no S) that were solid tops.
Aside from this, the big difference is that the KM-340 is an F-hole model and the KM-170 is an Oval hole. You might also consider a KM-160. This will sound better than the KM-340.
Really appreciate the advice guys was leaning towards the 340 before. Do you all think there's an appreciable difference between the 160 and 170? And folkmusician.com what setup do you guys do in shop? thinking about buying from you guys. PM if you would rather discuss there Thanks can't wait to get started!
I have been looking as well and got to look and hear both the 160 and 170 in a store. I heard both played and liked the 160 sound better but that is a personal choice. I highly suggest that if you haven't done so already, go to sagamusic.com to review the manufacturer's specs and download their catalog. You will find that both 160 and 170 have almost identical specs with the differences being the 160 has f-holes/neck attaches at the 12th fret and the 170 has the oval hole/neck attaches at the 10th fret. Available finishes vary with each as well. If you are interested in upping your limit, take a hard look at the 505. I know I am as it gets pretty good reviews here on the forum.
Ah thanks man, I can't find a store here that carries them here (live in Augusta, Ga) so it's a pain, might get to Atlanta at some point but I want it now haha. Found some samples online but thats as close as it gets. I might save up a bit more for the 505 later..hah but then that whole wanting it now comes into play again .
Folkmusician.com
Apr-15-2009, 10:01am
The 160 and 170 are pretty much the same as far as overall quality. It just comes down to the Oval-hole vs. F-hole thing. Each of these are available in three colors.
On Setup..
The setups we do are extensive. In fact, they go way too far considering the price of these mandolins. :)
Any bridge work needed: Fitting the foot to the top, string spacing, ramping string grooves.
Complete fret job: Seat loose frets, level as much as possible with a hammer and or clamps, level the frets (take off the tops of the high frets), crown the frets, file the fret ends, polish them up.
Then on to the basic setup stuff: Set intonation, set string height at the nut, set neck relief, set bridge height.
Check the tailpiece cover plate fit, check the endpin fit, oil tuners, clean-up the top of the nut so the strings are not down in the grooves too far.
Anything else that comes up is addressed, such as string spacing at the nut, fixing buzzes, etc.
The one thing that we do not do, is change the strings, although we can for the cost of strings.
Sometimes the Kentucky's come to us with reasonably fresh strings, other times the strings were installed in China, and look pretty bad! If they are exceptionally bad, rusty, or anything like that, then we do change them out. :)
NuGrass
Apr-15-2009, 9:14pm
Thats interesting. Never knew it was possible to do all the fret work and reseat a bridge with the strings still on a mandolin
Found a deal for a new 505 for $354... would I be a fool to pass that up? How do the 200 and 300 series compare to the rest?
Really appreciate the help as I am an utter utter noob.
Thats interesting. Never knew it was possible to do all the fret work and reseat a bridge with the strings still on a mandolin
It appears that they don't "change" the strings but reinstall the original strings when finished. I have a feeling that is common practice unless the buyer specifically requests (and buys) new strings.
Folkmusician.com
Apr-16-2009, 1:40pm
Thats interesting. Never knew it was possible to do all the fret work and reseat a bridge with the strings still on a mandolin
I see how this seems a little fishy. First I claim to do all this work to a low priced instrument, then I go on to say that the strings remain on during the process. Sound like quite the story! :)
There are times the strings are removed at the tailpiece, moved out of the way, and left wrapped around the tuners. There are also times the strings do come completely off, in which case a new set would almost always be put back on. Most of the time, it is done like this:
This is a KM-161 that I am about to start setting up. This is how they arrive from Kentucky. Note the bridge rubber banded to the headstock. I actually prefer this to the bridge being installed. It saves me the step of removing the bridge. Also, I can't remember the last time a Kentucky came in with shipping damage (I am only a few hours away though, so they don't go far).
http://www.folkmusician.com/imageshires/setup/km160_box1.jpg
This is what the mandolin looks like shortly after I have it out of the box and give it a visual inspection. The fingerboard is completely exposed, and I am able to slide the bridge foot under the strings.
http://www.folkmusician.com/imageshires/setup/km160_box2.jpg
The strings will remain on the mandolin just like this through the bridge foot and fret work.
There are occasions where the strings would be removed. Such as, if I need more space for the bridge fitting, need to use a bridge fitting jig, or need to do something with the tailpiece. High dollar mandolins are also a different beast. Have to be more careful about the possibility of scratching them with the strings.
The cost of a set of strings or the time needed to remove the strings, may seem like a small thing, but in order to do this degree of work on a low priced mandolin, I have to be "very" efficient. :)
Even being extremely fast, this level of work is not at all cost effective on the lower priced mandolins. It is only done so that we can claim that "Every mandolin we sell" receives this level of setup.
I hope this sheds some light onto the process.