Novice Builder - advice requested

[YvonneB]

Hi
Ive been reading this forum for some time now and am really impressed how generous people are with their advice. I've formed a determination to build a mandolin and have taken a fancy to the old mandolinetto model. Here's the question - the originals had a carved top, would it result in a vastly inferior sound to go for a flat back and flat top for simplicity in a first time build? Or should I bite the bullet and go for a carved top? I'm thinking of european Walnut back and sides and maybe sitka spruce top. I would rather have a successful if simpler instrument but a decent sound is important.

I have an old tear drop shaped mando with flat back and top, the body is deeper than usual, and the sound is great - bright with agood sustain and a full bass register - better than a modern handmade tear drop I once owned. I was thinking if I made the mandolinetto with a good deep body it might make up for having a flat top, or am I mistaken?

By the way my old mando is marked Sanders and Irving stamped inside the sound hole- Ive tried googling and no results - maple back and sides, burr walnut headstock veneer, it came with a tortoiseshell piece held by the strings below the bridge, since sadly lost. No inlay, oval sound hole. The scale length is smaller than standard. Anyone know who Sanders and Irving were?

I'm grateful for any advice.

Yvonne B.
Bath, England.

[Bill Snyder]

... I've formed a determination to build a mandolin and have taken a fancy to the old mandolinetto model. Here's the question - the originals had a carved top, ...
Yvonne B.
Bath, England.

First of all when they were originally marketed they were NEVER called mandolinettos. Some of them preceded the Gibson mandolins (such as the Howe Orme). I know of none that are carved. The Howe Orme had an induced "bump". They were made of a flat top that was bent or steamed into the "bump" shape. All the others I have seen pictures of have been flat (most likely with a bit of and induced, but minor arch.)
I think building one that is more or less flat topped would be fine.
Good luck.

[YvonneB]

Thanks Bill. I mistook the hump shown in the patent diagram for carved - it was more of a cylinder really.


I wonder why they were called mandolinettos - doesn't the 'etto' suffix mean 'small' when these are no smaller than other mandolins of the time?

[Bill Snyder]

Like I said, they were not called mandolinettos at the time they were marketed.
The Howe Orme are a bit small, at least when compared to todays American style mandolins. They have a 13 inch scale length and are about 7 3/8" inches wide at the lower bout.
I am curious, are you drawing up your own plans or did you find a source for the same.
I drew up some H/O inspired plans a few years ago and I have even started the instrument (top joined and roughed out and neck roughed out and outside mould cut) but I am terrible about starting them and letting them languish.
Good luck with your build.

[YvonneB]

No plans yet and plenty of work to do before I put saw to wood. I have copied the shape of one I like from the minersmusic website and am setting up a workshop in my garden shed. So it'll be a while.

I saw a website the other day with a mandolin with a pin bridge like a guitar, said to produce a sweet tone and more sustain. I like that sort of thing so I may go for it. My dilemma is whether to make it with a smaller scale to suit my hands or a standard scale so it will have a life apart from me!

[Stephanie Reiser]

I think you should stick to the standard 13 7/8" mandolin scale-length. Even youngters can adapt to the fret spacing. It would also make it easier to acquire parts.
Sounds like a terrific project!
Keep us informed, please.
P.S. Can you post a pic of what this style of mandolin looks like?
Thanks.

[Bill Snyder]

Here is one.

[markishandsome]

"I have an old tear drop shaped mando with flat back and top, the body is deeper than usual, and the sound is great - bright with agood sustain and a full bass register - better than a modern handmade tear drop I once owned. I was thinking if I made the mandolinetto with a good deep body it might make up for having a flat top, or am I mistaken?"

My understanding is that a deeper body will lead to a tubbier sound but not necessarily more bass. I don't think you need to "make up for" the flat top if you are striving to emulate the sound of your current flat top instrument. I'd try to make the soundbox volume pretty much the same.

I personally think carved-top instruments are actually easier to make than flat ones. The meatier center joint is easier to plane and glue up and you don't have to induce the arch with braces.

[YvonneB]

Thanks for the input - I have just bought some English Yew on ebay, a bit of a risk but it will be great if it works. Anyone know how well Yew steams?

[Schlegel]

There is someone curently making yew backed bowlbacks. Larson? Not sure, but at any rate yew can be bent. Makes sense, actually... anybody have a yew longbow?

[Bill Snyder]

Yvonne, do you have any of the available books on mandolin construction?
You might see about picking up one of the following books (Click the name - they are links)
The Mandolin Manual by John Troughton (http://www.amazon.com/Mandolin-Manual-Craft-Science-Mandola/dp/1861264968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1239663173&sr=1-1)
The Mandolin Project by Graham McDonald (http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com/themandolinproject.html)
Ultimate Bluegrass Mandolin Construction Manual by Roger Siminoff (http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Bluegrass-Mandolin-Construction-Manual/dp/0634062859)

[PT66]

Yvonne, follow your heart, build what you like, try what you think will work, then build another. I have been building for over forty years. I have built over 150 mandolins, guitars and dulcimers (no two alike). Be inspired by the instruments of the past. But maybe not try to copy them. Do your own thing. If you want a shorter scale the easy way is buy a standard fingerboard and saw through at the firsrt fret slot.

[YvonneB]

Thank you all very much for the advice and encouragement. I have ordered the Troughton book and will continue to glean all the wonderful knowledge available on here. There are many hobby makers in the UK but there doesnt seem to be a forum like this one , unless anyone can point me to one. It would be nice to see what others do.

Thanks again guys.