New Stringing Technique

[man dough nollij]

I recently picked up on a new re-stringing technique here on the Cafe (sorry, I can't find the tread...).

The idea is that you don't attach the loop end at all. You get a good wrap up at the tuner, then crank it in 'till you can hook the loop end.

Sounds like a good idea, so I decided to give it a try. My new Eastman 505 has never had a string change, and I have a metric butt ton of new strings to try.

I decided to try the "one string at a time" method. The intonation seems good. and I don't see any reason to take all the strings off at once.

The new string technique I reference in the subject line is to wrap the string carefully around the tuner post, without hooking it on the tailpiece.

I did this most recent string change that way, and found it to be more of a pain than I anticipated.

I left 1/2" of loop sticking out of the tailpiece (Eastman, cast), then set up the wind at the peghead. I held tension on the string by hanging on to it, winding it up until I could get about 1.5" of slack in the string.

At that point, I put one finger of my right hand under the string to keep tension on the strings. I cranked the tuner with my left hand until the strings were tight enough that I didn't need the "finger tensioner".

I found it very difficult and challenging to do this the first time, but it might get easier the next time.

I'm curious what others might have encountered in using this new stringing method.

I must say that I have achieved the only pretty wraps that I've ever done. If you do the string change just this way, it makes very professional string wraps.

YMMV. :mandosmiley:

BTW, I found the Eastman tailpiece to be a MAJOR PITA. The string loops get cinched down on the string post. Except for the most fine-toothed needle-nosed pliers, I can't imagine how you get that loop off the post. It is almost no benefit to push down on the string, trying to get it off the post. Argh!

[billkilpatrick]

i followed the advice given here:

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/Mandolin/MandoString/mandostring1.html

... was this included in the thread you mention?

- bill*

[Tim2723]

I've tried that trick in the past, although I didn't know there was a thread about it. I find that I get too much slack on the capstan and it takes forever to settle in. But that might just be me. Whatever works, right?

[8ch(pl)]

I like to control how many times the string goes around the post. I hook it to the tailpiece, hand clamp it through the bridge and nut,pull it hand tight, wrap it 3 times around the post (Twice for the wound strings and bring it up to tension. i also ensure that the wraps around the post are even. Using a capo to clamp the string down is a good idea, but I don't own one.

[Mando_Lynn]

Is it that my hands are little or that I'm anally retentive and require perfection? I find changing the strings is not really a big deal and my wraps look lovely.

I guess since I'm just an average mando player I have to brag about my string changing. LOL! My fingers are like little spiders going nuts in some frenzied dance that they alone can hear the music for.

[Steve Ostrander]

I've never tried that method, but I also dislike the Eastman TP. Either the strings get cinched like you mentioned, or the loop end pops off the TP when I'm winding. I've tried masking tape to hold them on and they still pop off. Next time I'm gonna try a little plastic tube to hold them on.

[JEStanek]

I use the Frets.com method Bill linked too. I don't mind the Eastman TP. I'll use a pencil to spread the loops open a bit and not problemo. I don't like changing strings, I don't mind it but it's not fun. That's part of why I use long-living flatwounds.

Jamie

[mandozilla]

Tried it your way once Lee but I couldn't get the hang of it. I connect the loop end to the tailpiece first then clamp it with a, dare I say it, a cay, er a cap, uh cacaca, oh what the h**l...a capo? :))

This would be a b**jo capo and it only attaches to my mandolin when I change strings I swear! Honest! :grin:

:mandosmiley:

[kestrel]

"I find changing the strings is not really a big deal and my wraps look lovely.

I have large hands, and I, also, have never been able to understand what the big problem is that so many people claim to have changing strings. I use the Frets.Com method, and don't see it as a big deal. It ain't rocket science, and I've changed my fair share of strings - including several auto-harps. I get even wraps, and haven't bled once. My Gawd, if you can do a four-finger G-chord, you outa be able to change strings.

Sorry, but like Lynn, I have never been able to understand all the crying about the horrible challenge of changing strings. :disbelief:

Gene

[mandroid]

I lay the mando in my lap, right hand on the fretboard pulls the string, keeping it on the hook.

Left hand gets the string in the hole, then I wind up the tension and extract my right hand from under the string.

[nate w]

the horrible challenge is that changing the strings correctly is so time consuming, I'd rather be playing.

[Dan Johnson]

sometimes i'll half-wrap the string around an adjacent post, or i hold the string far out from the body to keep tension while i'm winding it... this is one where i don't think there's ever going to be a "fun" way to do it!

[Michael Eck]

I'm in the camp that I never understood all the fuss.

I enjoy changing strings as part if the aspect of loving instruments.

As for the time consumed. It takes about 15-20 minutes to change a set of strings so I don't see the big deal.

[R. Kane]

For me, it's the unstringing - taking the A and E strings off their posts - not the stringing, that draws blood. But people who grow roses put up with occasional blood loss, and so do I.

[man dough nollij]

For me, it's the unstringing - taking the A and E strings off their posts - not the stringing, that draws blood. But people who grow roses put up with occasional blood loss, and so do I.

I don't get stuck doing that. Here's my technique: slack the strings off until you can get a wrap over top of the post. Spool off enough slack to get the loop off of it's post. Pull the loop end of the string out of the TP. Grab ahold of the loop end of the string and pull straight up, away from the tuner peg. Let the tension unwind the string from the post until it comes out of the peg hole. Voila! I never even have to touch the pointy end! ~:>

[Tim Heenan]

Not to hijack Man dough nollij 's thread...but it is somewhat relevant.....I have to agree the Eastman cast tailpiece is a MAJOR PITA when it comes to string changes.....I've played guitar for 35 + years and can efficiantly change full set, stretched, ready to play in about 10 mins..(Les Paul, Strat or my Esquire)..the mando.....( Eastman MD615) takes about 30 + mins....at best......I've considered replacing the Eastman cast with a Gibson style....any merit or just the insane ramblings of a frustrated mandolin stringer?.........:)
Tim Heenan

[Mike Snyder]

Glen has the system. Hook the tailpiece, bridge slot, nut slot, pull taut, three wraps on capstan, through the hole, crank to pitch. Works slick.

[Mattg]

.....I have to agree the Eastman cast tailpiece is a MAJOR PITA when it comes to string changes

The best way to deal with this is to flatten the loop a bit then bend the loop ever so slightly. It helps to hook it on those tiny little hooks. I can almost do this bare handed ( and bare toothed ) but it's easier to do with a set of needle nose pliers.

[Jim MacDaniel]

I too use the frets.com method, which requires so few turns of the tuners that I don't even bother using a peg-winder anymore.

[man dough nollij]

The best way to deal with this is to flatten the loop a bit then bend the loop ever so slightly. It helps to hook it on those tiny little hooks. I can almost do this bare handed ( and bare toothed ) but it's easier to do with a set of needle nose pliers.


I didn't have any problems getting the loops on. The problem I had was the old strings' loops grab ahold of the post like a tiny noose, and they were EXTREMELY hard to get off. There's no room to get in there with needlenoses or anything to grab the loop. Best thing would be a very sharp awl.

[pops1]

Glen has the system. Hook the tailpiece, bridge slot, nut slot, pull taut, three wraps on capstan, through the hole, crank to pitch. Works slick.

This is the way i have done it for 20 years and it is fast, easy and you don't really need a string winder.

[Mark Walker]

I didn't have any problems getting the loops on. The problem I had was the old strings' loops grab ahold of the post like a tiny noose, and they were EXTREMELY hard to get off. There's no room to get in there with needlenoses or anything to grab the loop. Best thing would be a very sharp awl.


I'm not familiar with some of the tailpieces described here, but my custom-cast 'Silver Angel' tailpiece has the hooks on the underside. Gravity works against you when re-stringing (the loops fall off the hooks while you're taking up slack) so I use a small Kyser *anjo capo - only for holding the strings down while I take up the slack.

Like man dough nollij, I sometimes have a similar problem getting strings OFF both the hooks and posts once they've been stretched. I use an old dental pick to get them off!

Typically, I use the Frank Ford (http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/Mandolin/MandoString/mandostring1.html) method for re-stringing all my instruments.

[Tim Heenan]

Glen has the system. Hook the tailpiece, bridge slot, nut slot, pull taut, three wraps on capstan, through the hole, crank to pitch. Works slick.


Well .....tried this last evening. Might be better than previously employed method.....still took almost 35 mins...:grin: