Fret removal

[Geiss]

Any suggestions as to how to safely and efficiently remove some frets (at the bridge side of the fingerboard).
Thanks.
All input most welcome.
Dave

[Ken]

Use a pair of small end cutters and grind the face of them flat so that there is no bevel, that way you can get under the fret. Heat the fret, if it's been glued in this will help it release, even if it hasn't been glued in this will lessen any chipping of the fretboard. Work on a clean surface because you will probably get some chips anyhow and you want to be able to find them, I'd also recommend glueing them back in at the same time with superglue, then you don't lose them or have to figure out which one goes where. As you work the fret up, go slow and gentle, working a little at a time. And, if you have a beater or junker fretted instrument around practice on that to get the feel of it.
Ken

[toddjoles]

It wasn't stated above, but it is best to use a soldering iron to heat the frets.

[Geiss]

Thanks a lot for those insights....
Dave

[Rick Turner]

Instead of a soldering iron which heats unevenly and radiates too much heat into the fingerboard, I use an American Beauty resistance soldering station. There's a "tweezer handpiece" which is basically a pair of electrodes, you apply them to the fret, and it pumps low voltage high current through the fret which heats up. This turns the fret itself into the heating element. Works like a charm.

[Geiss]

I will look into this Rick, thanks.
These frets would not be replaced...end of finger board being modified.
Dave

[Michael Cameron]

The American Beauty thing sounds interesting! I have used regular soldering guns. I cut a groove in the tip to help keep it from sliding off. I start loosening the fret when I see resin starting to sweat out of the ebony. Still,sometimes get chips...

Rick,where can I find one of these beauties? I want one.

I saw a guy heating frets with soldering iron on an old mandolin with celluloid binding. A big flash of fire and smoke later he said,"Yup,got it too hot." The binding all but disappeared. Got everybody's undivided attention. That stuff is like a fuse.

[Rick Turner]

http://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/index.php?req=prod&cat=tweezer

I modified the latch that keeps the points so close together so I could spread the electrodes to get the full length of a fret.

I picked two of these up at an electronics surplus store in LA for pennies on the dollar.

[Michael Cameron]

http://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/index.php?req=prod&cat=tweezer

I modified the latch that keeps the points so close together so I could spread the electrodes to get the full length of a fret.

I picked two of these up at an electronics surplus store in LA for pennies on the dollar.

That's the ticket! Thanks,Rick! I gotta have one of those. Heating the frets with a soldering iron is,truly,barbaric compared to the American Beauty thing with foot switch and all! Wow.

Thanks!

[Geiss]

I pulled out the neck from a nylon string guitar found in the trash and will practice some of these techniques.
Very much appreciate that y'all took time to respond.
Best,
Dave:mandosmiley:

[Michael Cameron]

http://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/index.php?req=prod&cat=tweezer

I modified the latch that keeps the points so close together so I could spread the electrodes to get the full length of a fret.

I picked two of these up at an electronics surplus store in LA for pennies on the dollar.

Rick,I'l have to find a better deal on these than buying new. Just got a "quote" on the price of a new American Beauty rig like you mentioned. It will be close to $700 bucks!

I would have to do 5 or 6 refrets to pay for that resistance soldering rig.

It would be great to see how you modified the points to reach the whole fret. I still want one...

[Marc Berman]

There's a 50 to 250 watt unit on eBay for $380. Not an American Beauty but it might get the job done. Search "SuperChief 250 Resistance Soldering System" and you'll find it.

[Bill Snyder]

Check out this article (http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Tools/FretGun/fretgun.html) at frets.com

[Rick Turner]

That'll work. Not as controllable, but same deal.

[carkva]

Hello.
I have a little problem with the frets on my mandolin. They give the wrong notes. When I play a note on the 7th fret and then a following note on the 9th fret, it does not give the interval major second, but a minor third. I think i has something to do with the hight of the frets. I have just got the action hight adjusted, so I think that's the reason why the problem came. Or maybe it has something to do with the neck? Is it somehow possible to adjust it?