String choices

[dorenac]

I'm trying to assemble my own string sets consisting of .011, .015, .024, .034. I will buy them individually. But I don't understand the differences between phosphor bronze, bronze, and 80/20. Are there general characteristics that differentiate these?

[Jon Hall]

To me the 80/20 has a brighter tone than the phos bz. The phos bz are darker.

[Tim2723]

From a metallurgical standpoint I'm not sure what the differences are or if they are predominantly synonyms for the same thing, or nearly so. But I 've come to think they can have subtle differences in tone on any given instrument. Not as distinct as phosphor bronze versus nickel, for instance, or flat versus round windings, but there are differences. I would guess that you'd need to assemble a set of each and evaluate them on your instrument according to your own tastes and playing style, and look at them individually for issues of life and economy.

It seems to me that changing the gauge would have as much if not more effect on their performance on your mandolin, which leads me to wonder why you've settled on a particular gauge set first? If it's because you've tried different gauges and found those to be most comfortable, then I think the best thing is to evaluate the different alloys in a 'blind' test rather than form preconceptions of their performance. You're more likely to find your personal 'perfect' set that way, I think.

The downside to that method is that you might actually prefer the sound of a .038 phosphor bronze over a .034 80/20 (for example), but never discover that, since you've centered on gauge as your limiting metric.

[Fretbear]

Phosphor bronze will have a respectable life span. I use GHS strings almost exclusively, but they do make one type of string called Bright Bronze that I can't stand. They have a different tension (less) and they don't last as long or sound as good to my ear as phosphor bronze.

[John Flynn]

To me the 80/20 has a brighter tone than the phos bz. The phos bz are darker.
I've been using 80/20's a lot lately. I agree with that statement and would add that I think 80/20's are "drier" meaning a strong fundamental tone, with less overtones. The overused term "bell-like" does seem to apply to them. I especially like the 80/20's on oval hole mandolins.

[dorenac]

The primary reason I restrict gauges is the mandolin itself, Phoenix Neoclassical, is designed for lighter strings. Within those parameters I would like to know about sound differences, nuances, longevity, playability, etc . Having used T-I's for a good while I would like to experiment based on that experience, hence the specific gauges.

[Tim2723]

Ah, that makes perfect sense. I suppose then you'd do well to try out the various alloys in turn, as their reponse may be very different on that mandolin, given its unique characteristics.

[cwtwang]

Well, it depends on what mandolin you try them on. I have a dry sounding mandolin that sounds great with PBs and a more ringing mandolin that sounds better with drier sounding strings.

But in general, 80/20s are a bit drier for me than PBs but the driest strings (more fundamental/less overtones) I have ever tried are the JS74 stainless steel strings which help a very ringing mandolin with overtones sound drier and more bluegrassy IMHO and they last longer.:) JS74s are a good bit heavier for the bottom strings than you use, however.

Cheryl:mandosmiley:

[mandroid]

basically - Copper with varying % of Zinc, Tin, Iron and Phosphorous.

(take a look at those FT bronze wounds, they are half round, and the A is quite thin, the core that is )