View Full Version : Making an F4
Hello all,
I am considering making an F4 from a Siminoff. Not sure if I want Classic or contemporary. Trying to keep it under 1000. Looking for some information on what wood would be best. definitely going with the easiest kit there is. also what inlay do you think would look best on it. if you could post some pictures of your favorite headstocks and necks that would look good on an F4 that would be great. Thought about torch and wire. Or the double flower pot.
Luke
sunburst
Jan-02-2009, 6:50pm
Hello all,
I am considering making an F4... ...definitely going with the easiest kit there is...
Well, there's a problem right from the start. I'm not sure what the easiest kit is, but it sure doesn't have a scroll(!), so it'll have to be one or the other but can't be both. :)
For inlay ideas, go to the builder's section here, and also browse through the "post-a-picture-of-your-mandolin" section. You can spend days in there!
Also, there have been two (that I know of) long threads where folks posted pictures of their favorite pegheads in that section, if you can find those.
The "standard" woods for instruments are usually "best", at least for starting out, and the "standard" woods for carved mandolins are spruce for the top and maple for the back and sides. The original F4s had Spanish Cedar necks, and since they look like mahogany, most people think they are, so they use mahogany for replica necks. Mahogany is as good if not better. F5 mandolins have maple necks as "standard", so any of those woods would be fine.
Dear John,
If you go to siminoff website http://www.siminoff.net you will find that there are three different kinds of F4 kits. For all different levels. the most expensive is the easiest. It's reffered to as level one I believe. where most of the work is done already. the peghead is already carved, sound hole cut. Truss Rod installed, etc. this is "the easiest" i was talking about.
sunburst
Jan-02-2009, 10:33pm
Oh, I see. "Easiest" as a relative term describing F4 kits.
yes. I have admired your building for quite some time now. have an tips?
sunburst
Jan-03-2009, 1:24am
You mean like "don't stay in the shop working until 3:00 AM"?
Only a couple of tips for right now:
Have fun! don't get frustrated with the process but enjoy it instead, and take as long as you need.
When you come up with specific questions as you build, ask here. There is a lot of collective wisdom and mandolin knowledge among the regulars (and not so regulars) here in the builder's section.
Hi Luke,
Unless you have a lot of help, and at least the basic tools or access to a shop, you will have a lot of frustration with this kit. Binding an F is not an easy task, making and installing the rosette is worse, and you still have to put together the rim. If you really want to try building, you might start with an A. They are much easier.
Skip Kelley
Jan-03-2009, 6:28am
Luke, John and Hans have given you excellent advice. Enjoy the process of building and also as Hans said why not start with an A model first. You can experience alot of the basics of building without all the extra's that are associated with an F model. Above all take you time and have fun building!
I could also start out with an F2. No back binding. No headstock binding. Would this be much harder than an A style? Do you think F style would be a good Second builder or stick to A's for a while?
mandroid
Jan-05-2009, 10:34am
the scroll is a complication , if you must have that, and the kit largely pre-machine cuts all that out for you.
then keep it simple and un bound, an F4 Jr. as it were.
I offer that..
I have heard one of the Weber's that had no edge binding at all
and the musician playing it sounded just fine.
an 'A' Jr. would still be a proud accomplishment.
Does binding make a tonal difference?
mandroid
Jan-05-2009, 6:25pm
Nope, None. ... It's just trim.
Edge corner of the softwood on top can take a bump without a dent.
But the whole violin family has no binding , after several hundred years , they are still fine.
Gail Hester
Jan-06-2009, 10:58am
I think everything has the potential of making a difference in the sound of a mandolin. An F5G does not sound on average like a fern with the only difference being the back binding. When you cut a binding channel the first time it's a bit scary because it seems like you remove about half of what was holding the plate to the ribs.