View Full Version : Resonator Set- up
Amandalyn
Jul-18-2004, 8:26am
I have an old resonator mandolin that I am trying to get in playing condition. A few questions : I had to change the tailpiece, and when I did the strings "rest" on the metal plate from the tailpiece to the bridge. Is this normal or should they be elevated off the top? Also, there was a metal strip that covered the top of the bridge which came off. What is it's function? Is it just to cover the bridge or rest your hand there? Do I need to put it back on ? Thanks for any info.
I will comment on your questions, but more in general terms in relation to that type of instrument. I would suspect that the strings touching the cover plate will be a source of interesting, but unwanted sounds, some of those "what's that sound and where's it coming from" noises that are far too common. You could try putting a strip of leather
between the strings and the cover plate where the strings attach to the tailpiece, and see if that will provide clearance between the strings and the cover plate. If the strip of metal that covers the bridge has broken off, you could have it silver soldered back on. Any jeweler could do that for you. It provides protection for the bridge and cone assembly, which could be damaged by a blow or excess pressure to the bridge. (like a too-tight case lid, or tipping over and landing on the bridge.)
It isn't a necessity, but I'd put it back if it were mine.
mandroid
Jul-18-2004, 6:37pm
Check with eyecandy builders links, you may find reproduced parts thru them, to fix it properly. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif
LouisianaGrey
Jul-19-2004, 2:17pm
The strings should be clear of the coverplate, otherwise you're likely to get some strange buzzes & rattles because the strings vibrate behind the bridge. If the bridge has been lowered at some point (because the neck has moved) then it's possible that if you raise the tailpiece you could lose the break angle over the bridge and then the mandolin won't work properly.
What kind of tailpiece did you use, and is it a biscuit or a spider bridge? If you put the handrest back on how much clearance is there between the top of the bridge and the bottom of the handrest?
Amandalyn
Jul-20-2004, 5:03pm
Thanks for your replys. More questions : I took off the coverplate to clean it, and underneath there is nothing else. Should there be any other metal parts? It is a wood body, there are 4 round sound holes in the wood top under the coverplate. I know that resonator guitars have a cone (?) under the coverplate. The coverplate appears to be steel, and is very tarnished, should I polish it, or leave the vintage look? Now that I know the strings should not be touching the top plate, I can make those adjustments. the original bridge was very low and also needs replacing.
LouisianaGrey
Jul-21-2004, 1:23am
It sounds like it's some kind of faux-resonator. I've never seem it in a mandolin but there were a couple of similar things in the guitar world of the thirties. As you say, a real resonator mando should have a metal cone (and probably a spider, if it's a wooden body) under the coverplate.
I would guess the coverplate was originally nickel plated, so you might as well leave it as it is unless you're going to have it replated.
Do you have any pictures you could post?
I briefly had a flat-top mandolin with a coverplate on it. I called it a "feaux-bro"..
No real worry about damaging the cone then, as it appears there isn't one http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif
mrbook
Jul-21-2004, 11:15am
The first "Dobro" I bought had a metal plate under the coverplate instead of a cone. I thought I would replace it with a cone, bought the parts, opened it up, and found the wood was painted silver. I bought a real Dobro and sold that one for the $45 I paid (I've seen them for more more). They are what they are. I read an interview where Jerry Douglas said his first resonator guitar was the same thing, so you can go on from there.